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12 Deeply Underrated Watches That Belong on Every Collector’s Wishlist
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A dozen slept-on timepieces worth adding to your rotation.
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<em>
Hi friends: It’s me, Cam. I'm on parental leave at the moment. Out of your inbox, but hopefully never gone from your hearts. Thankfully, we've sent one of our top minds into the Box + Papers laboratory. Jeremy Freed, a very sharp writer and longtime contributor to
</em>
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<em>
’s watch coverage, is your trusty guide through the horological world until I return in mid-March. See you soon. —Cam Wolf
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The world of watches is a big place, and here at B+P, we’re dedicated to celebrating as much of it as possible. That said, most of the conversations we have about watches tend to focus on a fairly limited number of brands and models, give or take the odd
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
conceptual art piece
</a>
or
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
celebrity-endorsed microbrand
</a>
. Fair enough—for myriad reasons,
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
some watches
<em>
are
</em>
inherently more interesting than others
</a>
. But for someone setting out to buy a new timepiece, the watches that tend to dominate the conversations among collectors aren’t always attainable—both in terms of pricing and retail availability. That’s why I’m devoting this week’s edition of Box + Papers to some of the watches that I feel don’t get as many kudos as they deserve.
</span>
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To do this, I first had to establish a few parameters. Firstly, no vintage. There are so many underrated
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
vintage watches
</a>
out there that including even a fraction of them would make this list longer than anyone would want to read. Secondly, the watches in question need to be purchasable without too much hassle (our reasoning being that if a watch is hard to buy, it’s probably not overrated).
</span>
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</p>
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<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
Now, some disclaimers. For one thing, this ranking is entirely subjective and unscientific. For another, “value” wasn’t our first consideration in deciding whether a watch deserves a spot on this list. A watch, after all, is an irrational purchase, and its value is relative to what you’re willing to pay for it. Despite this, I did endeavor to cover a range of price points, with an emphasis on the more affordable end of the market. So let’s get into it.
</span>
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<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
<strong>
Longines Ultra-Chron Classic ($4,000)
</strong>
</p>
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<img alt="54 Ultra performing in his vintage Rolex Day-Date. " height="auto" src="https://inboxflows.com/_/image/https%253A%252F%252Fmedia.sailthru.com%252Ffss%252Ffbht11%252Fc241b5f9-a318-43d0-9cff-5e922fcd4202%252Flonginess.jpg/?inbox_flows_img_sig=eyJwYXRoIjoiaHR0cHMlM0ElMkYlMkZtZWRpYS5zYWlsdCIsInRpbWUiOjE3NzI4MDkzNzguMTk4MjEzOH0:1vyWhe:L77yejOpuXwzJaXOTy1Ra_iYbkWOKExrdfRMBcQ9Ehs" style="display:block;height:auto;border:0;width:100%" title="54 Ultra performing in his vintage Rolex Day-Date. " width="560"/>
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<p style="margin:0">
<em>
Courtesy of Longines
</em>
</p>
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<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
Longines is one of the world’s most popular mid-tier watchmakers, so the brand itself is by no means underrated. They have so many interesting watches in their catalog, however, that some real gems tend to fall through the cracks, the Ultra-Chron Classic among them. Released last year, the Ultra-Chron Classic serves as an update to the brand’s first high-frequency model from 1967. It has some beautifully understated vintage looks, a choice between 37mm and 40mm cases, and—for those who appreciate the technical side of things—a high-beat movement operating at 36,000 vibrations per hour.
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
<strong>
Raymond Weil Millesime ($2,025)
</strong>
</p>
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<em>
Courtesy of Raymond Weil
</em>
</p>
</div>
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<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
The Millesime received its share of praise following its launch in 2023, but given its combination of Art Deco elegance and affordability, I think it deserves another shout-out. There are tuxedo-dial, chronograph, and moonphase variants, but in my opinion, the original Central Seconds model still reigns supreme.
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
<strong>
Tudor Royal ($3,175)
</strong>
</p>
</div>
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<p style="margin:0">
<em>
Courtesy of Tudor
</em>
</p>
</div>
</td>
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<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
Tudor has had no trouble winning over fans since its North American relaunch more than a decade ago. But when we talk about Tudor, we’re usually talking about its
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
Black Bay
</a>
line of dive watches and
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
chronographs
</a>
. Spare a thought for the oft-overlooked Royal. With a case reminiscent of the Rolex Oysterquartz—and its modern equivalent, the
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
Land-Dweller
</a>
—along with a Roman numeral dial reminiscent of the Day-Date, the Royal is as handsome as it is unique.
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
<em>
<u>
<strong>
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
<a rel="noopener" style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;" target="_blank">
Click here to see all 12 underrated watches.
</a>
</span>
</strong>
</u>
</em>
</p>
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2 weeks, 6 days ago - email@newsletter.gq.com
12 Deeply Underrated Watches That Belong on Every Collector’s Wishlist
A dozen slept-on timepieces worth adding to your rotation. View this email in your browser | Upda...