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   A Cult Nineties Magazine Worth Trawling eBay For
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                       Read and share this post on the web.
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                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     Pulling Weeds is decidedly pro-print, and
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      we have covered it many times over the last few years
                     </a>
                     , mostly focusing on the influential UK greats—magazines like
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      The Face
                     </a>
                     , i-D, and Dazed &amp; Confused. However, today we are discussing Index, a magazine founded in New York City by Peter Halley and Bob Nickas in 1996, which ran until late 2005. It was a US companion to the edgy British titles; they covered art, music, and culture in a way that felt closer to me.
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                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     In 2010, trawling eBay, I found a seller in Australia who was offering every issue in a lot. I don’t remember how much I paid, but I remember the shipping being astronomical. I loved having all of them; I am a completist. Over the years, I moved several times and loaned them out to designer friends, so only a few remain. But it was a crash course in photography; every cover was shot by someone who went on to be great, including
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      Juergen Teller
                     </a>
                     , Richard Kern, Ryan McGinley, Tina Barney, and Wolfgang Tillmans, to name a few.
                    </span>
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                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     Wahter Studios is presenting the Index Magazine Retrospective during Paris Design Week (Sept. 10-14) at CØR STUDIO. It felt like the right moment to chat with co-founder and publisher (and accomplished artist) Peter Halley about juggling jobs, selling ad pages, and getting the cover shot no matter what.
                    </span>
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                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
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                     <em>
                      <strong>
                       GQ:
                      </strong>
                     </em>
                     <strong>
                      I used to read Index at Borders and Barnes &amp; Noble while growing up in the suburbs of Atlanta. This retrospective feels long overdue, but it's also perfectly-timed—Gen Z is starting to care about print again. If you were born into a digital world, the idea of something tactile is fun and even novel.
                     </strong>
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     High-quality specialty magazines can make it these days.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     <strong>
                      “Can make it” is a good way to put it. Is this retrospective covering everything?
                     </strong>
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     The retrospective covers 33 different editions, and there will be a reading room where individuals can, by appointment, go through all the individual magazines, in a sort of white glove experience.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     <strong>
                      Do you feel somewhat removed from it at this point?
                     </strong>
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     I have a lot of stories about the magazine, but it has been 20 years, so there are things I've forgotten about, people I've forgotten about, parties I've forgotten about. I was a publisher, not the editor. And you could say that I was a little bit out of the loop. I was organizing the magazine and making all the final decisions, but it was really the editors and the contributors, who were generally 20 years younger than me, who were running around thinking things up about who to talk to.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     <strong>
                      Sure, but a publisher is an under-appreciated job. It takes all kinds, but the person who gets it over the line and deals with advertisers and that whole game is a harder job in some ways.
                     </strong>
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     Yeah, and I wanted to be a publisher. I wanted to experience what it's like to be in business. Being an artist, most of the people who collect my work are businesspeople and entrepreneurs, and I've never been able to quite figure out how they do it. And I guess ultimately I couldn't because we broke even, but I wasn't designed to make money.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     <strong>
                      You jumped in feet first, and that's a good way to learn—baptism by fire.
                     </strong>
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     It was. We had no idea what we were doing.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     <strong>
                      But you can kind of feel that. Looseness is what actually resonates with people.
                     </strong>
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     It was like forming a garage band. It was very, very fortunate the way people came together.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     <strong>
                      In its prime, how many people were working on the magazine?
                     </strong>
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     Just four or five. Our designers were freelancers. We had two great designers. The person who addressed the majority of the issues was Stacy Wakefield, and the original designer was Laura Genninger, who conceived the very sparse, newspaper-like format.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     <strong>
                      I obviously think of the covers. There are a few iconic ones, for sure, but it was probably one of the first times I ever saw Wolfgang Tillmans, Juergen Teller, or Tina Barney, especially in a commercial environment like a corporate bookstore.
                     </strong>
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     At that time, the world of photography had its own—I wouldn't call it socialist, but an
                     <em>
                      egalitarian
                     </em>
                     financial structure. A photographer like Juergen would charge an advertiser a lot of money to do a campaign, but he would work for us for free. People like Juergen, Terry Richardson, and Wolfgang were only too glad to do photographs for us.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     <strong>
                      And there were advertisements, but there was never a crazy amount of pages in every issue.
                     </strong>
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     Well, we wanted a crazy amount of pages! We eventually developed enough regular advertisers to break even. A lot of the advertising relationships were based on the fact that the people were interested in the magazine. The people who owned Max Mara, the Maramotti family, collected my work. When I started the magazine, I contacted Luigi Maramotti and asked if they could place an ad on our back cover. They did a Max Mara ad in every issue.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     <strong>
                      Brands like that have big advertising budgets, and I’m sure what you were asking for was pennies compared to Vogue or Harper's Bazaar.
                     </strong>
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     Actually, the ad placement people wouldn't advertise with us unless we were able to get to the principal of the company. We had to meet Marc Jacobs in order to get an ad.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     <strong>
                      How did you split your time between the magazine and working as an artist?
                     </strong>
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     Well, I'm pretty good at delegating, but it was kind of crazy. I started Index in '96, but in 2002 I became the Director of the Graduate Painting program at Yale. So from 2002 to 2005, I guess I had three jobs. Artist, magazine publisher, and academic department director. That was crazy.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     <strong>
                      Which cover is your favorite? What sticks in your mind the most?
                     </strong>
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     There are two, both by Wolfgang. The first is the cover with Udo Kier, where he photographed him in the bathroom of the Royalton Hotel. It's just such a great photo. And Udo Kier is such a wonderful person. He was the first actor who was ever interested in talking to me as an artist. As a kid, he grew up hanging around with Gerhard Richter and Sigmar Polke in Cologne. And the other cover is Bianca Jagger. He had to chase her out to Kennedy Airport to get her picture. And the photograph is just like a Caravaggio painting. It's such an amazing photo.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     <strong>
                      I'm going to need a little more detail on that.
                     </strong>
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     Wolfgang would come from London to New York to do photos for us for a few days, and we had scheduled a photo with Bianca. I'd already interviewed her and she kept canceling. And then the day before Wolfgang was going to leave, I called her up and said, "Bianca, Wolfgang's leaving tomorrow. We have to get this photograph." And she said…I can't quite do her accent, but she said, "Peter, I'm about to get in a car to go to Kennedy to fly to India." And I'm going, "Oh no." So Wolfgang was there and he jumped on the train to the plane and got there before her and photographed her at the check-in counter.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                  </div>
                 </div>
                </td>
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                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     <strong>
                      That's really committing to your job. My favorite cover might be Bijou Phillips. That photo is really striking. And the way the type is laid out, too. Your cover lines were always pretty spare. Now, there are either too many or they're all trying to be too punchy, eye-catching, and punny, which distracts from the goal.
                     </strong>
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     The other thing we did was send Jack Pearson off to take pictures of Robert Indiana. It was February, and Robert Indiana lives on Vinalhaven in Maine, and I thought we were sending him to the North Pole, which in a sense we were. I mean, it's not that easy to get to Vinalhaven. You have to fly to Maine, take a ferry out to the island, and in February. But he took amazing pictures.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     <strong>
                      Sometimes the journey makes the pictures better. It motivates you to rise to the occasion when under pressure.
                     </strong>
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     The other thing we did was send
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      Ryan McGinley
                     </a>
                     , then about 19 years old, overnight to Tokyo in coach to take pictures of a musician named Momus.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     <strong>
                      You put Ryan in coach for a 16-hour flight to Tokyo to take one picture?
                     </strong>
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     Well, he didn't mind. He was excited.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                  </div>
                 </div>
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