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   A World-Renowned Watch Collector Is Now Making His Own Watches
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   After three years of development, The Armoury’s Mark Cho just debuted a new line of timepieces called Temporal Works.
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                     In April 2023, I bumped into Mark Cho in the arid halls of the Palexpo, the vast Geneva convention center where
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      Watches and Wonders
                     </a>
                     is held annually. During our quick chat that day, Cho—the co-founder of the renowned tailoring shop The Armoury, and a prolific enough watch collector that Phillips once
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      curated an entire auction around some of his best pieces
                     </a>
                     —told me that he would soon be launching his own brand of timepieces.
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                     “You have a good memory,” Cho said over the phone yesterday, when I reminded him of that run-in. “I’ve been working on this for three years now, and two years ago I thought, ‘Oh, this is almost done.’ And I just kept finding things I wasn't happy with.”
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                    <br/>
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     Temporal Works, the new brand from Cho and Elliot Hammer, who also works on The Armoury’s watch collaborations, is the result of all those years of tinkering. The project is launching today with three versions of its debut model, the Series A. The foundation of the first batch of watches is a pair of pieces in navy and black with simple sector dials, which resemble a target with a center circle and four lines at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock. The dial on the third and final watch is scraped down to nothing but its pinkish-red finish, the radiant Maraschino cherry atop the rest of the line. The trio of Series A pieces are priced at $2,500 a piece, come on a comfy leather strap—though orders made in December will come with the $250 mesh metal bracelet free of charge—and are
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      available now through The Armoury
                     </a>
                     .
                    </span>
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                     You can really see Cho’s experience as an expert suitmaker come through in the Series A’s obsessively stripped-down build, with no excessive ornamentation in sight. “Once we have a jacket model set, you can start playing with the texture of it, the material of it, and it kind of transforms it every time,” Cho says. “But the framework, the base itself, has to be correct.”
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                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     Getting the sector-style dial right was a particular pain. Cho worried that the design sometimes looks too scientific, and it’s easy for it to get crowded with the addition of large indices or numerals. At one stage during its development, Cho says he showed a prototype to Andrew Lauren, Ralph’s film-producer son. “This is kind of cool,” Cho recalls Lauren saying, “but why does the dial have so much stuff on it?” At that point, the dial featured big numerals in addition to the sector lines and the brand’s logo. After receiving Lauren’s feedback, however, Cho simplified the face to keep the focus on the sculptural case, which is meant to evoke the space-age shapes of the ’60s and ’70s.
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                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     The body of the watch is inspired by the
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      Patek Philippe Calatrava 565
                     </a>
                     —or, at least, Cho’s ideal fantasy version of that iconic piece. “You look at the 565 from the front, and it looks like it should be very curvaceous,” he explains. “But then if you look at it from the side, it's really flat and has this huge ass on the back that contains the movement. So the watch floats off the wrist and not in a very pleasant way.”
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <br/>
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     To get a feel for the watches, Cho sent me all three to test drive for this story. After our call, I put on my current favorite flavor—the black sector dial, the variant I initially thought I’d wear the least—and took a look at the case from the profile. Maybe I’m an impressionable sucker, but I started to see what Cho was going for. Seen from the side, the watch resembles a UFO eager to blast off so that the freaky-deaky aliens aboard can kick off an
                     <em>
                      Eyes Wide Shut
                     </em>
                     -style party.
                    </span>
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                   <img alt="Studio Underd0g x Massena LAB 03SERIES Champagne &amp; Caviar" height="auto" src="https://inboxflows.com/_/image/https%253A%252F%252Fmedia.sailthru.com%252Ffss%252Ffbht11%252F43365bce-7266-4184-8f38-fe026e956187%252F_DSF7529.jpg/?inbox_flows_img_sig=eyJwYXRoIjoiaHR0cHMlM0ElMkYlMkZtZWRpYS5zYWlsdCIsInRpbWUiOjE3NjQ5Mzk2ODAuNDUyNTIzfQ:1vRVR2:RTGxakO-0kEyMvMn3tYeZHoTzn9tKGdZNt3Fi4rQ0oI" style="display:block;height:auto;border:0;width:100%" title="Studio Underd0g x Massena LAB 03SERIES Champagne &amp; Caviar" width="560"/>
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                </td>
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                  <div class="" style="font-family:Georgia,Times,'Times New Roman',serif;font-size:12px;mso-line-height-alt:18px;color:#000;line-height:1.5">
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     What else is cool about these Temporal Works pieces? The watches are finished with a Zaratsu polishing, a technique most folks likely associate with Grand Seiko, which creates a mirror finish. And boy, is it
                     <em>
                      ever
                     </em>
                     a mirror finish: I could check my teeth for cilantro using the Series A. The design of the hands is based on the shape of fountain pen nibs, which have a nice synchronicity with Cho and The Armoury’s old-fashioned elegance. Imagine sliding this watch out from under a wool glen plaid jacket to check the time after writing a love note with your Parker 51 fountain pen.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     What got me most excited about Temporal Works is Cho’s scientific approach to the hobby. He once worked on a multi-year survey in an attempt to definitively determine
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      the ideal watch size
                     </a>
                     , and earlier this year released the final version of his
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      12 principles of watch collecting
                     </a>
                     . This is a man armed with data and a code to live by.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     His survey on how big men want their watches to be proved especially useful. “It gave me a little bit of confidence that 37 millimeters was a good size to go with,” Cho says. In the future, he wants to further slim down the watch to 34 mm, which is closer to his personal preference, “but I think the 37 actually will fit a lot more people and will be commercially a little bit easier [to market].”
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     As an experienced collector and clothesmaker, arguably Cho’s most valuable skill in designing watches is that he knows exactly how something should wear. He mentioned a 34-mm version of Audemars Piguet Royal Oaks and pieces from Christian Klings that “really set the benchmark for how I like my watches to feel.” As someone who also gets to try a lot of different watches, what I most enjoyed about my time with these Temporal Work pieces was actually how often I forgot I was wearing them. I try on so many pieces that I love in pictures or out of the box, but a few hours later, I’m taking them off my wrist because they’re too heavy or the bracelet starts to gnaw at my skin. The Series A is comfortable enough that I’d only remember it when I really needed it: either to check the time or brag to an innocent bystander who made the mistake of asking me about it. That’s the mark of a good watch.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                  </div>
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                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;text-align:center;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
                     <strong>
                      The Watch of the Week
                     </strong>
                    </span>
                   </p>
                  </div>
                 </div>
                </td>
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                   <img alt="Studio Underd0g x Massena LAB 03SERIES Champagne &amp; Caviar" height="auto" src="https://inboxflows.com/_/image/https%253A%252F%252Fmedia.sailthru.com%252Ffss%252Ffbht11%252F5deb785b-8214-455c-9014-0b35d200fb4c%252Fzoea.jpeg/?inbox_flows_img_sig=eyJwYXRoIjoiaHR0cHMlM0ElMkYlMkZtZWRpYS5zYWlsdCIsInRpbWUiOjE3NjQ5Mzk2ODAuNDUyNjE3fQ:1vRVR2:YGY4Uegh0rJ3SlQhIJ1c1AoT7Vn-I5D8J6Bcyzx3m7Q" style="display:block;height:auto;border:0;width:100%" title="Studio Underd0g x Massena LAB 03SERIES Champagne &amp; Caviar" width="560"/>
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                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <em>
                     Photos courtesy Zoe Abelson
                    </em>
                   </p>
                  </div>
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                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     My status as a professional lurker in watch-dedicated group chats routinely provides dividends. For instance: Over the holiday weekend, after stuffing my face sufficiently, I was KO’d on the couch scrolling when a message came through from
                     <a rel="noopener" style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;" target="_blank">
                      Zoe Abelson, the renowned dealer behind Graal Watches
                     </a>
                     . She shared a festive image of her golden-brown turkey alongside what she described as a “turkey leg” Patek Philippe. The Calatrava ref. 2431 features awesome, incredibly distinctive lugs that are technically known as “flame lugs,” but—as Abelson accurately put it—closely resemble a turkey drumstick. I chatted with Abelson about her very special watch, which her great-grandfather originally received as a 25th anniversary present from his wife.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     <strong>
                      Box + Papers:
                     </strong>
                     <strong>
                      <em>
                      </em>
                     </strong>
                     <strong>
                      What's the story behind this watch?
                     </strong>
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     <em>
                      Zoe Abelson
                     </em>
                     : It’s a ref. 2431 from 1948. A gift from my great-grandmother to my great-grandfather for their 25th wedding anniversary. It has a sweet engraving on the back: “On our 25th. Happy Memories. Love Tutu.”
                    </span>
                   </p>
                  </div>
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                  <div style="max-width:560px">
                   <img alt="Todd Snyder x Unimatic Modello Quattro U4 GMT" height="auto" src="https://inboxflows.com/_/image/https%253A%252F%252Fmedia.sailthru.com%252Ffss%252Ffbht11%252F5e8e6ddf-29e2-451f-831b-bca2178849eb%252Fzoea1.jpeg/?inbox_flows_img_sig=eyJwYXRoIjoiaHR0cHMlM0ElMkYlMkZtZWRpYS5zYWlsdCIsInRpbWUiOjE3NjQ5Mzk2ODAuNDUyNzA5NH0:1vRVR2:_JT2ektZw6cxmbOiHVhwOCfphF5AQKbcsYJqGkAhJws" style="display:block;height:auto;border:0;width:100%" title="Todd Snyder x Unimatic Modello Quattro U4 GMT" width="560"/>
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                  <div class="" style="font-size:12px;font-family:Georgia,Times,'Times New Roman',serif;mso-line-height-alt:18px;color:#000;line-height:1.5">
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <em>
                     The inscription on the back reads “On our 25th. Happy Memories. Love Tutu.”
                    </em>
                   </p>
                  </div>
                 </div>
                </td>
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              </table>
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                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     <strong>
                      You mentioned it was your great-grandfather's watch. When and how did it come to you?
                     </strong>
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     No one in my family is a “collector” but me, honestly. My family typically gave watches as gifts for special occasions (with sentimental value), but they weren’t focused on building collections.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     My father gave me the watch after a pivotal point in my career. I have an older brother, but I had asked for it since my first job in the watch industry—at Antiquorum in 2011—when I brought in the watch to have it valued. The specialist pointed out it was unique. I didn’t even know my dad had it before then, because he never wore it.
                    </span>
                   </p>
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                   <img alt="Todd Snyder x Unimatic Modello Quattro U4 GMT" height="auto" src="https://inboxflows.com/_/image/https%253A%252F%252Fmedia.sailthru.com%252Ffss%252Ffbht11%252F1bbfdde8-8d3f-4ba4-ad07-32d4f46bf3b5%252Fzoea2.jpeg/?inbox_flows_img_sig=eyJwYXRoIjoiaHR0cHMlM0ElMkYlMkZtZWRpYS5zYWlsdCIsInRpbWUiOjE3NjQ5Mzk2ODAuNDUyODAxNX0:1vRVR2:Wn7_8AT1PDERKxEdsQsYSAhQ6UJYxgilluLXRbZo8sg" style="display:block;height:auto;border:0;width:100%" title="Todd Snyder x Unimatic Modello Quattro U4 GMT" width="560"/>
                  </div>
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                </td>
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                    <span style="word-break: break-word; color: #737373; font-size: 16px;">
                     <a rel="noopener" style="text-decoration: none; color: #000000;" target="_blank">
                      Why The Armoury’s Mark Cho Is Selling His Massive Watch Collection
                     </a>
                    </span>
                   </p>
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                    <span style="word-break: break-word; color: #737373; font-size: 14px;">
                     Cho spent the last 16 years hunting down some of the most interesting pieces in the world. Now, he’s auctioning off nearly all of them.
                    </span>
                   </p>
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