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   Am I a Versace Guy Now?
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   Dario Vitale’s audacious Versace debut cast the brand in a stylish new light.
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                    <img alt="Versace SS26" height="auto" src="https://inboxflows.com/_/image/https%253A%252F%252Fmedia.sailthru.com%252Ffss%252Ffbht11%252F8f1b01b1-1cad-47c0-b61e-2f77df25ac03%252FVERSACE-SS26-VOGUE-Look-12.jpg/?inbox_flows_img_sig=eyJwYXRoIjoiaHR0cHMlM0ElMkYlMkZtZWRpYS5zYWlsdCIsInRpbWUiOjE3NTg5ODczNDYuNjIzNDI3OX0:1v2Wxe:cur5Sb2Ba3owM9HMxUUVdPQxdVPFUgoyR30LcEHBljo" style="display:block;height:auto;border:0;width:100%" title="Versace SS26" width="526.4"/>
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                   <em>
                    Versace SS26
                   </em>
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                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     What a debut from
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      Dario Vitale
                     </a>
                     at Versace. It was plucky and suave, new yet somehow familiar—and also somewhat personally destabilizing. It only took about a half-dozen looks before I began thinking to myself: I
                     <em>
                      want
                     </em>
                     that… and that, too. You can actually see me in the
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      background
                     </a>
                     of the runway images practically licking my lips at an electric blue linen blazer worn with a rumpled camp shirt, a vision of ’80s Miami Beach opulence fit for menswear’s
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      preppy now
                     </a>
                     . The slouchy bomber in faded seafoam cotton was even better. A heather blue zip-up cardigan with only the most subtle Versace logo detailing? Check. Slipper-like Versace x Asics sneakers? Why not. Candy-stripe high-waisted jeans hitherto only found at the racks of James Veloria?
                     <em>
                      Si!
                     </em>
                    </span>
                   </p>
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                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     My personal shopping list isn’t usually all that important. But this one represents a real 180. With all due respect to
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      Donatella
                     </a>
                     , I have never considered myself a Versace guy. Her Versace—which she took over following her brother Gianni’s murder in 1997—was perpetually tanned and coiffed to high heaven. It was for himbos and socialite nepos (God love them). Her final outing, in February, was a fine version of the form but treacherous to navigate, as I had to avoid both tripping over glammed-out gowns and getting impaled by teetering stilettos. Her models were always super.
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                    <img alt="Versace SS26" height="auto" src="https://inboxflows.com/_/image/https%253A%252F%252Fmedia.sailthru.com%252Ffss%252Ffbht11%252F4590e315-1ea8-4cd8-9fa6-7c5417770e17%252FVERSACE-SS26-VOGUE-Look-07.jpg/?inbox_flows_img_sig=eyJwYXRoIjoiaHR0cHMlM0ElMkYlMkZtZWRpYS5zYWlsdCIsInRpbWUiOjE3NTg5ODczNDYuNjIzNTY0Mn0:1v2Wxe:Bp9v4e-CXSv6I2Hh_zAaDfyZzXWzDX9JUqEkJ-dXz-0" style="display:block;height:auto;border:0;width:100%" title="Versace SS26" width="530"/>
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                    <img alt="Versace SS26" height="auto" src="https://inboxflows.com/_/image/https%253A%252F%252Fmedia.sailthru.com%252Ffss%252Ffbht11%252F96444f5c-ab4a-4994-b977-123f28207e66%252FVERSACE-SS26-VOGUE-Look-08_2.jpeg/?inbox_flows_img_sig=eyJwYXRoIjoiaHR0cHMlM0ElMkYlMkZtZWRpYS5zYWlsdCIsInRpbWUiOjE3NTg5ODczNDYuNjIzNjcyNX0:1v2Wxe:cZOhJZVRpGbrF6Wy4jJOnABDrVT_dExInubOvNlMiyY" style="display:block;height:auto;border:0;width:100%" title="Versace SS26" width="530"/>
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                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     Of all the
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      designer debuts at Milan Fashion Week
                     </a>
                     , Vitale’s was the looming, baroque question mark. Vitale arrived from Miu Miu to succeed Donatella Versace after she stepped aside in March—big platform heels to fill. Would the number-two from one of the hottest brands in fashion be able to replicate that creative and commercial magic? And then there was the fact that in April, the Prada Group dropped nearly $1.5 billion to acquire the house that Gianni founded. The deal is expected to officially close in the next few weeks, and it remains unclear what Prada is going to overhaul and what it will leave in place. Adding to the tongue-wagging that Vitale was suspended in designer limbo was that the format of his debut kept shifting. What was initially pitched as an intimate, off-calendar “event” evolved into a presentation, until word got around this week that it would actually be a fully fledged runway show after all.
                    </span>
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                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     I wasn’t the only one new to the Versace party. In the cobblestone courtyard of the Pinacoteca Ambrosiana—a wonderful villa-like museum that holds one of Vitale’s favorite Caravaggio paintings—I ran into
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      CT Hedden
                     </a>
                     , a drag queen and fixture of downtown NYC’s nightlife. “I’m wearing
                     <em>
                      all
                     </em>
                     new Versace, head-to-toe, down to the underwear,” Hedden crowed, showing off his tailored vest and school-bus yellow jeans. Hedden was one of many club kids invited to the show, including Boychild, Wu Tsang, and the DJ and artist Josh Caffè, who has only 14.5K followers on Instagram and a forthcoming Versace campaign. Donatella was a queer icon in her own right, but Vitale is operating as a participant rather than an admirer. “Dario is so cool,” Hedden continued. “He’s so queer. And he’s so for our community as queer artists.”
                    </span>
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                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     Hedden also had a supple leather bomber draped around his shoulders—a vintage Gianni Versace piece from the ’80s, when the legendary designer was the king of hunky suiting and pectoral-baring silk shirts. “And you haven’t even noticed!” he said with a laugh. “Everyone is wearing one piece of Gianni.” And the studded leather cord belting his jeans across the front? “Obviously it’s a cock ring,” Hedden said. “There actually is a Gianni reference from the ’90s where he used cock rings to tie the pants together.” (Fact check: true.) “So it’s true to the heritage of the house and for Gianni being a queer artist.”
                    </span>
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                    <img alt="Versace SS26" height="auto" src="https://inboxflows.com/_/image/https%253A%252F%252Fmedia.sailthru.com%252Ffss%252Ffbht11%252F23f206e4-a4b8-4610-8f1f-f3790f434d40%252FVERSACE-SS26-VOGUE-Look-33_5.jpg/?inbox_flows_img_sig=eyJwYXRoIjoiaHR0cHMlM0ElMkYlMkZtZWRpYS5zYWlsdCIsInRpbWUiOjE3NTg5ODczNDYuNjIzODY5Mn0:1v2Wxe:b2teDRLtRF_BRYKk4mEEVOhTnsd5hIaTZUrkZgGxXC0" style="display:block;height:auto;border:0;width:100%" title="Versace SS26" width="530"/>
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                    <img alt="Versace SS26" height="auto" src="https://inboxflows.com/_/image/https%253A%252F%252Fmedia.sailthru.com%252Ffss%252Ffbht11%252F6bfc66c3-5eb6-4833-9d07-eb393d8e5629%252FVERSACE-SS26-VOGUE-Look-35_3.jpeg/?inbox_flows_img_sig=eyJwYXRoIjoiaHR0cHMlM0ElMkYlMkZtZWRpYS5zYWlsdCIsInRpbWUiOjE3NTg5ODczNDYuNjI0MDY3OH0:1v2Wxe:ymouoMnKpbqPYJmi15bXakrV3qKdXFH--C08s8qA2N0" style="display:block;height:auto;border:0;width:100%" title="Versace SS26" width="530"/>
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                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     Suffice it to say I wasn’t a Versace guy just yet. Sex is a tricky topic on the runway. The best practitioners of sensual menswear today (like
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      Anthony Vaccarello
                     </a>
                     and
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      Haider Ackermann
                     </a>
                     ) stoke passion with mystery and attitude. Go too far and the clothes just look irrelevant. Vitale’s debut actually showed very little skin compared to the va-va-voom Versace status quo. There were narrow muscle tanks and tailored short-shorts, seductively unfastened jeans, and lots of leather, but that was about as kinky as it got. More alluring was the way the surprising, stylish cast of characters wore black leather pants with brown leather shoes, and visa-versa, a sleazy ’80s throwback that Vitale described as “so Italian.”
                    </span>
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                   </p>
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                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     (A moment for the great casting by Julia Lange: How cool is it that indie starlets Talia Ryder and Ava Capri—Vitale is a fan—made their catwalk debuts on Friday night for the house that Linda, Cindy, Naomi, and Christy built?)
                    </span>
                   </p>
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                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     After the show, Vitale—so new he’s still wearing Miu Miu—introduced himself to a gaggle of journalists. The museum, once a private home, was reimagined as if guests were walking in on the smoldering ruins of a hedonistic dinner party. There was a messily unmade bed in the middle of one room, and a bathroom vanity littered with makeup-stained swabs. Boxes of half-eaten sweets were arranged on Italian modernist coffee tables—the idea was to channel the disheveled charge of Pasolini’s
                     <em>
                      Teorema
                     </em>
                     . Vitale has a romantic and honest disposition. He mentioned a “tormented passion” for Caravaggio and likened the casting to bringing the gods down from Mount Olympus. “I wanted to see those gods and goddesses having an affair with the mortals,” he said. He also explained that he brought his own bed sheets for a cot in one corner of the house: “I needed to add something that was just me apart from the whole narrative.”
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     I’m not adding everything to cart just yet. Some of the tailoring veered into ’80s power suit costume, with stiff linebacker shoulders. The freshest and most appealing looks were the ones that seemed to fuse Gianni’s boldness with Vitale’s natural style sensibility. The contrasting, high-V-neck T-shirts poking out from under shirts and polos and sweaters? That was apparently all Vitale. “There was this rule when I was a kid that when you got dressed you always wore a T-shirt, a shirt, and a jumper,” he said. “So to me this is the fundamental of every wardrobe. I wanted to do something very sexy out of it. To do something that it's so ordinary and classic and to make it sexy.”
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     I’m going to need them in every color.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                  </div>
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                      Show Notes Tip Sheet
                     </strong>
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                  <ul start="1" style="margin-top:0;margin-bottom:0;list-style-type:revert">
                   <li style="Margin:0">
                    <strong>
                     Spotted:
                    </strong>
                    The best party of the week so far was the Versace bash at Peck, a grocery store and temple of Milanese gastronomy. It sort of reminded me of Condé Nast’s old holiday parties at Eataly, with butchers serving up plates of prosciutto and bottarga-dusted pasta that have to be juggled with glasses of champagne. It was the first fashion fête I’ve been to in a while where people chowed down.
                    <strong>
                     Michèle Lamy
                    </strong>
                    sitting with
                    <strong>
                     Romeo Beckham
                    </strong>
                    …
                    <strong>
                     Lily McInerney
                    </strong>
                    wearing what looked an awful lot like the infamous
                    <strong>
                     Julia Roberts
                    </strong>
                    Venice Film Festival blazer… The swagged-out members of co-ed K-pop group
                    <strong>
                     AllDay Project
                    </strong>
                    celebrating with their large entourage… A couple of people in town on Bottega Veneta exclusives, but their secret is safe with me…
                   </li>
                   <li aria-level="1" style="Margin:0">
                    <strong>
                     Invitation Deflation:
                    </strong>
                    When the luxury industry could do no wrong during the Covid-era spending splash, runway show invitations were
                    <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                     intricate and expensive
                    </a>
                    —at one point it felt like every brand was sending something sort of unwieldy collectible. (I saw at least one person wearing their Louis Vuitton cowboy hat at the airport.) Times have changed. With show budgets shrinking, the first thing to go is the expensive junk that has to be hand-delivered to hundreds of people at dozens of hotels around Milan and Paris. Most brands are back to nice cardstock or simply QR codes. But two brands have gone big this year. Yesterday, I found a large flat box on my bed from Bottega Veneta, where
                    <strong>
                     Louise Trotter’s
                    </strong>
                    new vision debuts tonight. Inside was a flat piece of leather with strips of lasered cutouts. I assumed it was a fancy placemat until I saw a
                    <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                     video demonstrating
                    </a>
                    that it is in fact a tiny bag made with no stitches. Cool! And then there was the invite to Sunday’s black tie
                    <strong>
                     Giorgio Armani
                    </strong>
                    show-turned-
                    <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                     tribute
                    </a>
                    . Each guest received one of the greatest T-shirts ever, which is printed with a portrait of young, hot Mr. Armani wearing a tuxedo. I normally keep most of this stuff, no matter how bizarre, and put it right into storage when I get back to NYC. But the Armani tee is going straight in my closet.
                   </li>
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                     4.
                     <a rel="noopener" style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;" target="_blank">
                      Watch These Eight Films to Prepare For ‘One Battle After Another’
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       </tbody>
      </table>
     </td>
    </tr>
   </tbody>
  </table>
  <!-- End -->
 </body>
</html>