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At NYFW, Everyone Wants to Be a Preppie
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Double polo collars, cargo shorts, and lots of blazers—J. Crew, Ralph Lauren, and J. Press lead the preppiest New York Fashion Week in recent memory.
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J. Crew’s men’s creative director,
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
Brendon Babenzien
</a>
, doesn’t love splashy, celebrity-filled events—“I’d rather be working late at the office,” he says—but even he looked impressed as the brand’s pre-New York Fashion Week dinner party hit a crescendo on Tuesday night.
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
Mark Ronson
</a>
had just hopped on a couch to get a better view of the
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
Blood Orange
</a>
performance happening across the room, which was decorated to look like the warm, WASP-y interiors of a J. Crew catalogue. The room was packed by the likes of Martha Stewart and LaKeith Stanfield, as well as a hefty haul of the culturally relevant (Kareem Rahma, Eva Victor,
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
The Dare
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) and editorially powerful on a night where there were several competing fashion fêtes.
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Money can buy A-list attendance, and this was surely one of J. Crew’s highest-budget parties in years. But money can’t generate actual buzz, which was at an undeniably high frequency in the Bowery venue located just upstairs from the Supreme store (coincidentally, Babenzien’s former employer). “This is where we are right now,” said Babenzien, referring to the brand’s spiritual position back at the center of the culture again. “And it’s really fun.”
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Brendon Babenzien and J. Crew women's creative director Olympia Gayot.// Ben Rosser/BFA.com
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What’s changed in recent years isn’t J. Crew, exactly. While Babenzien has loosened the place up with wider fits and introduced a fulsome tailoring selection since arriving in 2021, the brand remains a steady purveyor of accessible, lightly-rumpled classic menswear. What’s changed is fashion has moved back toward J. Crew. These days, everyone wants to be a preppie.
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Babenzien, who grew up skating and surfing but now dresses more like a sailor, noted that several years ago it was hard to find proper rugby shirts. Not so anymore. Jonathan Anderson’s
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
debut collection for Dior
</a>
in June included Nantucket red chinos, bright pink and green cashmere cable knit sweaters, couture-ified cargo shorts, and an undertone of the effortlessly hunky personal style practiced by ’90s preppie icon
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
JFK Jr.
</a>
And at Celine,
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
the Michael Rider era
</a>
kicked off with swingy camel coats and cropped argyle sweaters, preppy staples he polished during his tenure as women’s creative director at Polo Ralph Lauren. “I do always love where something useful and real meets something that’s incredible, a fantasy,” Rider said after the show.
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LaKeith Stanfield at J. Crew. // Ben Rosser/BFA.com
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Trends come and trends go at warp speed these days, and classic American clothing remains more or less a constant menswear baseline, something designers (particularly Rei Kawakubo and Junya Watanabe) constantly riff on. But I knew something was really up when the stylist George Cortina told me on a recent phone call that he had just purchased a pair of L.L. Bean bluchers. “I think that people are looking at prep right now because, where else do you go?” said Cortina, the high-powered red carpet consigliere to
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
the likes of Brad Pitt
</a>
. Cortina argued that returning to the timeless embrace of prep might be a response to the fact that so many men look like they are “trying so hard.” “Celebrities are wearing these ridiculous outfits, and you almost have to go in the other direction.” As good preppies know, any effort put into your look should be in service of looking like you’re not trying at all. “It’s all so cool,” Cortina said, “if you know what you’re doing.”
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If menswear has felt overly concerned with connoisseurship in recent years—all about acquiring elite, understated garments made of noble greige fabrics—the 2025 prep renaissance is more about finesse. Not what you wear but
<em>
how
</em>
you wear it. It’s the rusty but reliable bumper sticker-covered Volvo station wagon in a parking lot full of Teslas. “Prep can look so editorial, even though it’s just an American flag sweater and a baggy chino. For some reason that is such a cool look,” adds Marcus Allen, the stylist and founder of The Society Archive, a collection of the best of ’90s and aughts mall fashion: Abercrombie cargo shorts, gauzy Gap button-ups, sun-faded sweatshirts. The aesthetic is that of the drop-out cousin of the boarding-school set, but what Allen intuitively understands about prep is that it’s about the lifestyle. When he and his crew of colleagues and friends aren’t hanging out at downtown hotspot Bar Oliver they’re most likely in Montauk, looking like they’re ready to wrestle on the beach in a Bruce Weber campaign.
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<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
If last decade’s menswear prep revival was about Shaggy Dog sweaters and
<em>
Take Ivy
</em>
, and the more recent TikTok-fueled
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
#OldMoneyAesthetic
</a>
was fixated on the twisted appeal of class signifiers in a time of high status anxiety, today’s trend has more of a sensual, even vulgar edge. Some of the most exciting young names in menswear have built their brands by mining the seductive seams of prep. Eli Russell Linnetz is like the late-Millenial Weber of our time: His cropped polo shirts and slinky zip-off cargo pants thrum with homoerotic energy. And the young New York designer Raimundo Langlois’s pube-bearingly low-rise jeans and double-collar polos make the suburban public-high-school-lacrosse-player lifestyle look irresistible to downtown club rats.
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(Speaking of Weber, the legendary fashion photographer’s launch party for his new Taschen monograph held at Library 180 on Tuesday night was standing-room-only.)
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“There was a certain sanitation in fashion recently, and I think we’re now fully back in this time where people want to be, in a sense, wrong,” said ex-Saks buyer and current Substack fashion star Jalil Johnson. Meaning: the double collar is back on the menu. A few weeks before NYFW kicked off, Johnson was in the inner sanctum of contemporary prep-dom: the Ralph Lauren suite in Arthur Ashe stadium at
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
the US Open
</a>
. Carlos Alcaraz was about to hit the court in the second round, and the Ralph box—decorated to resemble a Hamptons pool house, including a custom white wooden bar—was filling up with influencers decked out in colorful pony-logo sweaters. Johnson was wearing lemon-hued trousers, a bright orange cable-knit sweater casually tied around his waist, and not one but two polos, a turquoise one over a white one (both, of course, by Polo). Johnson popped each collar like a chic fraternity president. “This moment called for a double collar,” he declared. “I mean, for so many seasons fashion was just neutral, black and white, and people are hungry for something that gives a little
<em>
life
</em>
,” Johnson said.
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<img alt="Ralph and Ricky Lauren waving to fans outside the Ralph Lauren show on September 10." height="auto" src="https://inboxflows.com/_/image/https%253A%252F%252Fmedia.sailthru.com%252Ffss%252Ffbht11%252Fc95e4e0f-85ac-4605-9fe2-068c61a52a21%252FGettyImages-2234144617.jpeg/?inbox_flows_img_sig=eyJwYXRoIjoiaHR0cHMlM0ElMkYlMkZtZWRpYS5zYWlsdCIsInRpbWUiOjE3NTc3MDA1MDQuMTI2NTI5N30:1ux8C8:Lb-ncf7MfSPZcd_MX-Yqxf8T37ADdLIOJ55CPsIwLLs" style="display:block;height:auto;border:0;width:100%" title="Ralph and Ricky Lauren waving to fans outside the Ralph Lauren show on September 10." width="480"/>
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Ralph and Ricky Lauren waving to fans outside the Ralph Lauren show on September 10. // XNY/Starmax
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The distinctive yellow, orange, and green of this year’s official Polo x US Open merch was just as popular in the rest of the stadium as it was on court, where the ball boys and girls wore custom Polo uniforms. Every time I walked by the on-site Polo store, the line snaking out the door got longer, and when I finally made it in in the afternoon, I discovered the tennis fans had cleared the place out of size medium US Open-branded sweatshirts (made in a pleasantly slouchy fit). I resigned myself to buying one on the secondary market, like I was tracking down a grail from Supreme. The real souvenir of the day, clearly, wasn’t a Honey Deuce, but a Polo hat.
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It’s no coincidence that Ralph Lauren has had to keep revising its quarterly revenue estimates upwards while its stock continues to climb to unprecedented heights. (The price is up 35 percent year-to-date, and 78 percent in the last 12 months.) A decade after the Ralph Lauren brand had to implement a turnaround plan in the face of declining revenues and waning relevance, its position at the helm of American menswear has never been stronger. Part of it is strategy, with the company cutting back on rampant discounting and elevating the price and quality of its core products. In July, the brand introduced a collection inspired by the historically Black Martha’s Vineyard community of Oak Bluffs that emphasized the inclusivity of the Polo universe. But perhaps the simplest explanation of Ralph Lauren’s remarkable comeback is in the 85-year-old’s designer’s status as a current day style icon. (Just ask Marcus Allen, who runs the Instagram account
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
@ralphshowfits
</a>
.) Nobody makes prep look more personal than Lauren. He represents the true aspiration of the trend, which is not to embody a brand but to create your own individual sartorial fantasy.
</span>
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<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
Another American brand seeking to emulate the Polo phenomenon is J. Press. On Thursday morning, the Brideshead Revisited soundtrack warbled through the Explorer’s Club as ex-college rowers in madras shirts milled about. This was the final boss of NYFW prep: the
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
J. Press runway show
</a>
. Last week, the venerable Ivy League haberdasher announced the appointment of Jack Carlson as creative director. Carlson is best known for channeling his prep bona fides (US national team coxswain, archaeology doctorate from Oxford) into the brand Rowing Blazers, which brought a brash streetwear-adjacent sensibility to preppy clothes. After selling Rowing Blazers to Burch Capital in 2024, Carlson was planning to move to California to write books. And then J. Press called. His mission, as he described it backstage, was to “lean into what makes J. Press, J. Press. It’s not really about trying to reinvent it at all.”
</span>
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<img alt="A JFK Jr. lookalike modeling in the J. Press fall 2025 show" height="auto" src="https://inboxflows.com/_/image/https%253A%252F%252Fmedia.sailthru.com%252Ffss%252Ffbht11%252F3f079448-25d5-423a-a80e-9597f41ed026%252FJPress_ss26_BTS_1070.jpeg/?inbox_flows_img_sig=eyJwYXRoIjoiaHR0cHMlM0ElMkYlMkZtZWRpYS5zYWlsdCIsInRpbWUiOjE3NTc3MDA1MDQuMTI2NjIyNH0:1ux8C8:6LswdIH5OZsM_fCWhq3UDrJakAoKgJUUSMenHt7FirE" style="display:block;height:auto;border:0;width:100%" title="A JFK Jr. lookalike modeling in the J. Press fall 2025 show" width="480"/>
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A JFK Jr. lookalike modeling in the J. Press fall 2025 show. // Greg Kessler/Kessler Studio
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The lineup included prep world all-stars like Mordechai Rubinstein, Caroline Calloway, Preppy Pete, and a guy who looked uncannily like JFK Jr., especially in a backwards ballcap and a mussy OCBD collar under his blue blazer. For his debut, Carlson played the hits, emphasizing smart tweed blazers, fuzzy Shaggy Dog sweaters, regimental stripe ties, and a general fearlessness for mixing bright colors and patterns. For those who are being reintroduced to J. Press, it was a clear mission statement. My gripe is that it felt too rigorous. J. Press is not Dior and Carlson is rightly wary of over-conceptualizing Ivy style, but it lacked the sleazy, lighthearted edge of this menswear moment. But I couldn’t argue with the sentiment Carlson shared before the show: “It’s definitely a great time for prep,” he noted. “And that feeling was part of what made me decide to take on this challenge. This is a good time for J. Press.”
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The fashion set is about to descend on three new NYC restaurants.
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predicted that “there’s serious potential to make that spot the millennial vibe headquarters of America.” I’ll add that it’ll also turn Buddakan into a surefire party spot for Bowien-affiliated brands like Collina Strada and Supreme. Then there’s Food,
<strong>
Lucien Smith’s
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new
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counter-service spot
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on Canal Street. Named in homage to Gordon Matta-Clark’s artist-run restaurant in early-’70s SoHo, Smith’s Food has Max Lamb bar stools, a familial atmosphere, and a small menu—a single entrée and a couple of sides—that changes daily. Last night, I tucked into a steaming bowl of piperade, a thick slice of anchovy toast, and a handsome avocado crab salad. Food is still in its soft opening phase, and it’s already booked for private events tonight and tomorrow. And then there’s
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Flynn McGarry’s
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Cove, the former-teen chef’s ambitious new
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Hudson Square dining room
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. McGarry teased Cove’s seasonal, California-inspired menu at Tuesday’s J. Crew dinner, where I wolfed down my delicate turbot so fast that I honestly can’t remember what else was on the plate. All I can say is I’m looking forward to McGarry’s first Cove party next Thursday, which I’m sure will be followed by many more.
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2 months, 1 week ago - email@newsletter.gq.com
At NYFW, Everyone Wants to Be a Preppie
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