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   Can Simone Bellotti Save Minimalist Menswear?
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   With two fresh It shoes and knockout tailoring, Jil Sander’s new creative director is off to a hot start.
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                    All images by Alessandro Lucioni // Gorunway.com
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                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     The billion-dollar question facing fashion right now is: Can clothes be refined without being boring? Increasingly it feels like shoppers are faced with a binary choice. Say you want to buy a designer suit. Your options range from the greige and oversized (but not
                     <em>
                      too
                     </em>
                     oversized) to the totally wild and extra. Don’t get me wrong—there are exceptional clothes on both sides of that spectrum (looking at you, The Row and
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      Luar
                     </a>
                     ), and
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      menswear’s preppy agenda
                     </a>
                     offers a way to look at things like classic tailoring with fresh eyes. But as this season’s shows keep ping-ponging between soporific and overly eccentric, it gives the impression that you have to compromise on personality for subtlety. Why can’t you have both?
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                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      Simone Bellotti
                     </a>
                     thinks you can. In his debut for Jil Sander at Milan Fashion Week yesterday, the the cult-loved designer gave us sensually-shaped four-button blazers, superlight double-faced leather jackets, shrunken sweaters layered over other sweaters, shirts and overcoats with cool crinkled pleats at the waist, and sleek black leather moccasins. Not to mention the perfect pair of blue jeans. Stuff that fit impeccably, or didn’t fit in exactly the right way. Bellotti has clearly poured an exceptional amount of effort into his Jil Sander, but the clothes made it look easy.
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                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     Bellotti is a veteran of the battle for cool, wearable clothes. He spent 16 years at Gucci before decamping for Bally in 2022, where his vision of artful, boyish menswear turned him into a fashion insider favorite. (Kate Lanphear and Edward Buchanan, two hall of fame style icons, have both been wearing Bellotti’s hit Bally boat shoe this week.) When OTB chairman Renzo Rosso
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      poached Bellotti
                     </a>
                     for Jil Sander in March, it set up one of the most eagerly awaited debuts in a season full of them. Several editors told me it was the show they personally cared about the most—they wear more of Bellotti’s work than Dior or Chanel.
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                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     At Bally, a Swiss leather house with few existing ready-to-wear codes, Bellotti was able to start fresh. But his new job represents a much different challenge. After all, Jil Sander is synonymous with minimalism. The “Queen of Less” pioneered fashion that prioritized the wearer over design flourishes, preaching a gospel of radical restraint and clean lines. It’s a daunting legacy and a bit of a paradox. As Bellotti
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      ruminated to
                      <em>
                       Vogue
                      </em>
                     </a>
                     in the run-up to the show: “I’m always asking myself since I started here: what can I add of myself to a brand that is known to reduce? What can I add in a brand that goes to the essence?”
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                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     I spotted a step in the right direction before the first model even hit the runway. A few of Bellotti’s friends in the front row were wearing handsome navy leather trainers—a reissue of the Puma x Jil Sander King, a groundbreaking 1998 design that is considered the first sneaker collaboration between a luxury designer and a major athletic brand. I was starting to imagine lines forming outside of Jil Sander stores for the first time since the Raf Simons era, and that was before Bellotti revealed his other surefire It shoe: those great leather mocs, which look like a Wallabee mated with a made-in-Italy driving loafer.
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                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     Bellotti also embraced tradition—or stripped things back?—by returning the show to the brand’s stark white headquarters, a stone’s throw from the medieval Castello Sforzesco. Backstage, Bellotti recalled the aha moment he had on his first day in the office. “They asked me to do a speech in the office, and I was so nervous, I didn’t even know what I was saying,” he said. “And I was in this space, which is super modern, light, and white. I was looking outside at this castle, which is massive and classic. And basically, I thought, the brand is this. It’s the combination of these elements that apparently are opposite, but I think they speak the same language.”
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                  <p style="margin:0">
                   <em>
                    Simone Bellotti
                   </em>
                  </p>
                 </div>
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                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     Hence the exquisite equilibrium of the tailoring. Bellotti all but bottled the essence of the suit in the opening looks, where he cut the austere gray, navy, and black wool fabrics with the lightness of shirting. A series of structured coats caressed the torso like modern armor (a Castello reference), and perfectly straight pleated gray trousers complimented the contrasting knits that made you look twice—were they two sweaters or one single knit? One model flashed a bit of midriff under his cropped heather jumper, as if Bellotti was arguing that minimalism could be interesting
                     <em>
                      and
                     </em>
                     sexy.
                    </span>
                   </p>
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                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     “It was really about trying to find a way to protect and reveal at the same time, finding a balance between these elements,” Bellotti said backstage. “This is really what I find very interesting in the end.”
                    </span>
                   </p>
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                      Show Notes Tip Sheet
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                    <strong>
                     Based Paul Harnden?
                    </strong>
                    Reclusive slow fashion legend
                    <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                     Paul Harnden
                    </a>
                    is apparently trying to install a strange piece of art in his Dover Street Market London space. Harnden—who lives and works in Brighton, where he makes $4,000 jackets adored by the likes of Jeremy Strong and John Galliano—sent the store an enamel sign emblazoned with a political cartoon by American right-wing scribbler Ben Garrison that rails against “forced vaccinations.” You can see the sign on Harnden’s Instagram
                    <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                     here
                    </a>
                    , where the designer posted it seemingly unnoticed in October 2020. (At writing, the video had less than 3,000 views.) Harnden made a few subtle changes to the
                    <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                     Garrison original
                    </a>
                    , adding a mask to one of the figures and labeling a syringe with something about tracking chips. (Not a sentence I expected to write this morning.) I suppose it’s not entirely surprising that a designer as mysterious and anti-corporatist as Harnden, whose singular clothes look straight out of
                    <em>
                     Oliver Twist
                    </em>
                    , would harbor some fringe views. As with everything Harnden does, the significance of the sign is unexplained, as he has never given an interview and goes to great lengths to maintain his independence from the big bad fashion system. The fact that his DSML space is—get this—literally lined in tinfoil suggests at least some level of trolling at play. Then again, the Paul Harnden aesthetic isn’t exactly subtle. There have been other politically radical themes in his recent work, which has depicted men in artisanal prison garb, including in an old-timey short film called
                    <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                     “The Dissident.”
                    </a>
                    I suppose the real question is: Will RFK Jr. start dressing like a Victorian chimney sweep?
                   </li>
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