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   Chasing the Future of Menswear at Paris Fashion Week
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   Louis Vuitton and Auralee couldn’t be more different, but both brands are all-in on retro romanticism.
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                      Courtesy of Auralee // Edited by Armando Zaragoza
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                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     A jam-packed
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      Paris Fashion Week
                     </a>
                     schedule opened on Tuesday evening with two very different vibes. The first, courtesy of rising Japanese label
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      Auralee
                     </a>
                     , was thoughtful and refined. Intimate, even—a showcase of clothing on a human scale by a mild-mannered fabric obsessive named Ryota Iwai. The second, by
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      Pharrell
                     </a>
                     and Louis Vuitton, was fashion under the biggest of big-top tents, an enormous and opulent production that featured a celebrity-crammed front row and an Apple-store-esque house seemingly dropped in the middle of the runway.
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                     The one-two punch of Auralee and LV has become something of a men’s week tradition here, and the juxtaposition can be head-spinning. You’re witnessing a serene parade of understated outfits one minute; the next, you’re watching a guy carting a Louis Vuitton steamer trunk made of stained glass down the runway in front of 1,000 guests (not counting the gospel choir).
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                     And yet even though the two designers speak a different language (literally), at some point last night it occurred to me that, in many ways, their work is contributing to a common dialogue about where menswear is headed.
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                      Louis Vuitton Men’s fall-winter 2026, look 22.// Courtesy of Louis Vuitton
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                      Auralee fall-winter 2026, look 26. // Courtesy of Auralee
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                     Maybe it was when Pharrell sent out a buttery yellow, channel-quilted puffer that was cropped at the hip just so. Or a plaid suit with a particularly chill fit. Or when I looked away from the glass-walled “Drophaus” in front of me—a Farnsworth-meets-Kyoto abode designed by Pharrell in collaboration with Japanese hospitality firm Not A Hotel—to focus on the luxe layering of ties under colorful knits, floaty blousons, and beautiful blazers and overcoats.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     I wasn’t having déjà vu, exactly. But I sensed something rhyming with what I had been particularly taken by just a few hours earlier at Auralee: namely, a couple of perfectly cropped yellow jackets. A plaid suit with a particularly chill fit. And lots of luxe layering.
                    </span>
                   </p>
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                   <a target="_blank">
                    <img alt="Louis Vuitton Men’s fall-winter 2026, look 14." height="auto" src="https://inboxflows.com/_/image/https%253A%252F%252Fmedia.sailthru.com%252Ffss%252Ffbht11%252F05bf1d99-0bc3-4515-8298-481bb8d79179%252FLOUIS%252BVUITTON%252BMENrsquo%252B%25281%2529.jpeg/?inbox_flows_img_sig=eyJwYXRoIjoiaHR0cHMlM0ElMkYlMkZtZWRpYS5zYWlsdCIsInRpbWUiOjE3NjkwMTg2MDYuMDM4MjE3NX0:1vicYA:6Ie7mfoTW1cQpL5VSUYY8KqerA14XXesiFtvjlxOQFs" style="display:block;height:auto;border:0;width:100%" title="Louis Vuitton Men’s fall-winter 2026, look 14." width="526.4"/>
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                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 13px;">
                     <em>
                      Louis Vuitton Men’s fall-winter 2026, look 14. // Courtesy of Louis Vuitton
                     </em>
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                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 13px;">
                     <em>
                      Auralee fall-winter 2026, look 20. // Courtesy of Auralee
                     </em>
                    </span>
                   </p>
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                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     To be clear, these two designers are playing totally different games. They are looking at their own references, and designing for their own customer. Following a laid-back production soundtracked by Yo La Tengo’s “Autumn Sweater,” Awai spoke through a translator about a winter collection that was light and joyful, rather than heavy and concealing. It was hard not to feel uplifted by the superstylish melange of bright red knits, deep purple scarves, and an electric blue duffle coat, which mixed it up with cashmere corduroy pants and down puffers made with thin baby calf leather and cut slim with high pockets.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     Meanwhile, after a season where he was directly inspired by the
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      sartorial traditions of India
                     </a>
                     , Pharrell had evidently been thinking about traveling in a different direction: to the future. He tasked his team with developing a collection of timeless garments you could wear in any era (including the next one), based on a relaxed ’80s silhouette but adapted for today with technically elevated details. The result was a copious amount of silk-nylon blends—including in reversible monogram bags and smart tailored joggers—as well as fabrics engineered with advanced waterproofing and reflectivity.
                    </span>
                   </p>
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                   <a target="_blank">
                    <img alt="Louis Vuitton Men’s fall-winter 2026, look 5. " height="auto" src="https://inboxflows.com/_/image/https%253A%252F%252Fmedia.sailthru.com%252Ffss%252Ffbht11%252F48f46979-8bb2-4acf-94b0-498ec91cd6e0%252FLOUIS%252BVUITTON%252BMENrsquo%252B%25282%2529.jpeg/?inbox_flows_img_sig=eyJwYXRoIjoiaHR0cHMlM0ElMkYlMkZtZWRpYS5zYWlsdCIsInRpbWUiOjE3NjkwMTg2MDYuMDM4NTd9:1vicYA:X23ShHO4xutn5Itnilbxhz7cu1fZR8yLa9KnvHJ75CY" style="display:block;height:auto;border:0;width:100%" title="Louis Vuitton Men’s fall-winter 2026, look 5. " width="526.4"/>
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                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 13px;">
                     <em>
                      Louis Vuitton Men’s fall-winter 2026, look 5. // Courtesy of Louis Vuitton
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                   <p style="margin:0;mso-line-height-alt:16.8px">
                    <em>
                     <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 13px;">
                      Auralee fall-winter 2026, look 1. // Courtesy of Auralee
                     </span>
                    </em>
                   </p>
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                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     Alongside these space-age-y flourishes were more subtle technical triumphs, like overdyed vicuna coats (apparently quite challenging to do) and laminated suede bags and track jackets inspired by archival LV bags from the Marc Jacobs days. For a line that heaves with luxury, there was a distinct airiness this time around, like Pharrell had flung open the windows of his sleek new house.
                    </span>
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                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     The obvious differences between the two brands is what makes the points of convergence that much more interesting. Pharrell and Iwai both have a well honed sense of what their customer wants, which suggests that they are both tapping into a similar vein as men’s fashion hacks its way out of quiet luxury and into a more eccentric unknown. (Perhaps Pharrell’s futuristic theme is not such a coincidence.)
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     What that future is starting to look like to me is something you might call retro romanticism. By “retro,” I mean clothing that taps into silhouettes from the ’70s and ’80s, a menswear golden age when clothes had a more natural movement and feeling—a clear inspiration across both shows.
                    </span>
                   </p>
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                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 13px;">
                     <em>
                      Auralee fall-winter 2026, look 45. // Courtesy of Auralee
                     </em>
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                    <em>
                     <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 13px;">
                      Louis Vuitton Men’s fall-winter 2026, look 58. // Courtesy of Louis Vuitton
                     </span>
                    </em>
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                  <div class="" style="font-size:12px;font-family:Helvetica Neue,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;mso-line-height-alt:18px;color:#000;line-height:1.5">
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     And there’s a romantic layer to the designers’ mutual focus on the relationship between clothing and body, how the garments speak to the wearer. You can see it in the way Pharrell and Iwai both embrace a sense of jauntiness in their styling, and in how they focus on subtle details that can make garments particularly meaningful. Take the Louis Vuitton parka with interior fur pocketbags, a luxury that exists solely for the wearer, or Auralee’s development of cashmere corduroy, a workaday fabric turned plush and personal. It’s not about an outward flex but an inward pleasure. Buy any garment from either collection and you’ll surely discover more subtle design flourishes made with you in mind.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     As Pharrell
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      put it to Vogue Runway
                     </a>
                     before his show, “I think we need to analyze what luxury is.” There’s a week of men’s shows left, with the calendar full of designers ready to propose their own vision of the future of menswear. But we’re already getting some answers.
                    </span>
                   </p>
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                    <img alt="Auralee fall-winter 2026, look 23. " height="auto" src="https://inboxflows.com/_/image/https%253A%252F%252Fmedia.sailthru.com%252Ffss%252Ffbht11%252F64638f34-8ff5-41a9-8593-9b502152cd0e%252FAuralee_fw26_runway_press_look_23.jpeg/?inbox_flows_img_sig=eyJwYXRoIjoiaHR0cHMlM0ElMkYlMkZtZWRpYS5zYWlsdCIsInRpbWUiOjE3NjkwMTg2MDYuMDM5MTV9:1vicYA:JGLe-aE2deCtnNpTXUfFnnCeyp9Wx0gg5u6clSSswIA" style="display:block;height:auto;border:0;width:100%" title="Auralee fall-winter 2026, look 23. " width="526.4"/>
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                   <p style="margin:0;mso-line-height-alt:16.8px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 13px;">
                     <em>
                      Auralee fall-winter 2026, look 23. // Courtesy of Auralee
                     </em>
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                      Louis Vuitton Men’s fall-winter 2026, look 9. // Courtesy of Louis Vuitton
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                    <u>
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                       </a>
                       <a rel="noopener" style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;" target="_blank">
                       </a>
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                        Read the full interview on GQ.com
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                      Show Notes Tip Sheet
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                    </span>
                   </p>
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                      Newsletter
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                      -only intel straight from my notebook.
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                      <strong>
                       Dunhill Fall 2026:
                      </strong>
                      Last week in Milan, I sat down with Dunhill creative director Simon Holloway to hear about the inspiration behind the brand's villainously elegant Fall 2026 menswear collection.
                      <strong>
                       Watch the video
                       <a rel="noopener noreferrer" style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;" target="_blank">
                        here
                       </a>
                       .
                      </strong>
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                      <strong>
                       Spotted:
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                        Yung Lean
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                      </strong>
                      at Jonathan Anderson’s sophomore Dior Men’s show.
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                       More Dior:
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                      The skinny jeans opening Dior were inspired in part by
                      <a rel="noopener" style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;" target="_blank">
                       <strong>
                        Mk.gee
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                      </a>
                      , Anderson told me before the show. The Dior creative director says he is a super fan of the indie artist and Justin Bieber collaborator. “I met him in LA and he was not what I expected,” Anderson said, calling Mk.gee a “purist type of American that has a kind of a shyness to him.” I’ll have a full report in Show Notes tomorrow.
                     </p>
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                      <strong>
                       Pontiflex:
                      </strong>
                      Rhuigi Villaseñor gave Pope Leo XIV a Rhude bomber.
                      <a rel="noopener" style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;" target="_blank">
                       Said the designer
                      </a>
                      on Instagram: “btw the drip is Holy now.”
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                     <p role="presentation" style="margin:0;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
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                      Oris Hits the Bull’s-Eye With a Fresh Spin on a Classic Watch
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