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                     Plus, Inside Villa Dior: The Couture Set’s Best-Kept Secret
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                     By Nicole Phelps
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                     By Nicole Phelps
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                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 16px;">
                     This Paris couture season, like the ready-to-wear last October, was a tale of debuts. Jonathan Anderson at
                     <a style="color: #000000; text-decoration:underline;">
                      Christian Dior
                     </a>
                     and Matthieu Blazy at
                     <a style="color: #000000; text-decoration:underline;">
                      Chanel
                     </a>
                     put on convincing displays, I thought, especially for the ways they tried to nudge the métier off its old-world (and old-fashioned) pedestal. Anderson did it with shoes in 18th century textiles and many other shoppable extras, which Vogue Business’s Elektra Kotsoni got to see firsthand at the Villa Dior after the show. Blazy impressed with the breadth of his Chanel offering, from dévoré velvet pjs (quite popular with the
                     <a style="color: #000000; text-decoration:underline;">
                      celebrities
                     </a>
                     in attendance) to the traditional bride’s untraditional top and skirt dripping in feathery slices of mother of pearl. Extra credit for his multigenerational cast.
                     <br/>
                     <br/>
                     That said, Schiaparelli’s Daniel Roseberry and Valentino’s Alessandro Michele made sure they didn’t fail to get noticed. Inspired perhaps by the upcoming Elsa Schiaparelli exhibition at the Victoria &amp; Albert in London, Roseberry produced a
                     <a style="color: #000000; text-decoration:underline;">
                      ferocious collection
                     </a>
                     , each
                     <i>
                      passage
                     </i>
                     a different kind of chimera, part woman, part beast. Its fierceness felt right for our current moment. Michele’s collection was fearless in its own way. An homage to
                     <a style="color: #000000; text-decoration:underline;">
                      Valentino
                     </a>
                     , fashion’s “Last Emperor” who died a week-and-a-half before this show, it was faithful to the late designer’s Hollywood legacy, though Michele is completely disinterested in Valentino’s famous decorousness. For him, it’s pageantry all the way.
                     <br/>
                     <br/>
                     With Giorgio Amani’s own passing last September, his niece Silvana Armani stepped into his shoes this week at
                     <a style="color: #000000; text-decoration:underline;">
                      Armani Privé
                     </a>
                     , making her the sole woman couturier on the schedule. I agree with Tiziana Cardini, who wrote that you could see that it was a woman designer’s work in the clothes. “Her first outing revealed an elegant, feminine flair: lighter in spirit, fluid in line, polished, and quietly confident.” I very much hope that Sarah Burton unveils her first couture collection for Givenchy this July.
                     <br/>
                     <br/>
                     Another development you may have missed:
                     <a style="color: #000000; text-decoration:underline;">
                      Alexis Mabille
                     </a>
                     ’s uncanny valley of a fully AI-generated couture show. Amy Verner’s take: “Whether it becomes a case study at fashion schools, sends a ripple across the industry, or yields an uptick in his client orders, he got our attention by crossing the rubicon. For better or worse, he won’t be the last.” A last word for
                     <a style="color: #000000; text-decoration:underline;">
                      Viktor &amp; Rolf
                     </a>
                     ’s finale kite which captured, as it rose, the joy of building something that, as Viktor Horsting told Tina Isaac-Goizé, is “a total piece of art.” Vive la couture, and how.
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