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   How Kiko Kostadinov Won Fashion in 2025
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   With a buzzy Levi’s collaboration.
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                      Courtesy of Kiko Kostadinov
                     </em>
                    </span>
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                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     Rare pairs of vintage
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      Levi’s jeans
                     </a>
                     can trade hands for extraordinary sums, with higher prices generally corresponding to their importance in the American denim canon. So what to make of the phenomenon around Kiko Kostadinov x Levi’s? Leo Gamboa, who runs collaborations at Levi’s, says he’s seen pairs from a 2024 drop listed on eBay for $10,000. “Which is jokes, but still,” Gamboa says.
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                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     Whether any of the jeans have actually sold for that much is beside the point. What is abundantly clear is that the 36-year-old
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      Kostadinov
                     </a>
                     has
                     <em>
                      it
                     </em>
                     right now. There’s an
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      ineffable energy
                     </a>
                     around his work that you can’t learn at Central Saint Martins and that brands with a hundred times the resources can’t copy. He’s the rare cult designer whose niche, often weird perspective doesn’t limit his business and influence, but directly feeds it.
                    </span>
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                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     The Kiko effect was on full display last Friday in London. There is not an obvious precedent for the event Kostadinov threw that evening at his brand’s new headquarters in Haggerston: It was a house party, a runway show, and a store opening all wrapped together, centered around a new Levi’s collab and a co-ed collection inspired by Dante—not the
                     <em>
                      Divine Comedy
                     </em>
                     scribe, but Kostadinov’s
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      Lakeland Terrier
                     </a>
                     , a constant presence in the studio and the brand’s miniature fuzzy mascot. (Who has his own must-follow Instagram
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      here
                     </a>
                     .)
                    </span>
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                      Kiko Kostadinov x Levi's // Courtesy of Kiko Kostadinov
                     </em>
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                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     “He’s kind of a little
                     <em>
                      Inferno
                     </em>
                     as well, he’s very stubborn,” Kostadinov tells me earlier in the afternoon. We’re sitting in Kostadinov’s office, which looks out on a courtyard dusted with fluorescent yellow ginkgo tree leaves. Downstairs, Kostadinov’s father is painting the entryway to the brand’s third retail store, following outposts in Tokyo and Los Angeles. In a few hours, the runway show will wind through the design studio as guests quaff natural wine while perched on desk chairs and assorted furniture from Kostadinov’s apartment; afterward, everyone will head down to celebrate in the ground-floor shop, which, like the first two, was designed with the artist Ryan Trecartin.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     Kostadinov mentions that he wanted the experience to be “less weird” than the typical fashion week happening—by which I think he means less intense and ego-drenched. “It’s more like an international friendly compared to a final.” He makes serious fashion, but he rejects the tortured fashion designer archetype. “We are doing fit checks, we’re not the real heroes,” he says with a laugh.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     The happening is the capstone of a year where Kostadinov and his co-creative directors—twin sisters Laura and Deanna Fanning, who design the brand’s womenswear—continued to expand their singular futuristic aesthetic across fashion, art, and music. In 2025 alone, they held four Paris Fashion Week runway shows; unveiled furniture designs at Matter and Shape; dropped a series of Asics sneakers; launched collaborations with Beats and Fox Racing; put a pair of shoes on the cover of Steve Lacy’s single
                     <em>
                      Nice Shoes
                     </em>
                     ; and hosted a
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      Morán Morán Gallery
                     </a>
                     exhibition of Dash Snow photographs at their Paris studio space. The company has about 30 employees, but these consistent cultural connections often make Kiko Kostadinov feel much bigger.
                    </span>
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                   <a target="_blank">
                    <img alt="A Kiko Kostadinov x Levi's jacket styled with pants from the Dante collection and Kiko Kostadinov x Dr. Martens lace-ups." height="auto" src="https://inboxflows.com/_/image/https%253A%252F%252Fmedia.sailthru.com%252Ffss%252Ffbht11%252Fe1ac2c92-7ef8-4705-b611-e1d41bb921c4%252F0A1A3989.jpeg/?inbox_flows_img_sig=eyJwYXRoIjoiaHR0cHMlM0ElMkYlMkZtZWRpYS5zYWlsdCIsInRpbWUiOjE3NjI4ODA3NzIuMzU0OTg3Nn0:1vIroq:1nKP7cLwI0xkg7OeV8fLzY6f2Y8jmbf1WUsd84P8HmE" style="display:block;height:auto;border:0;width:100%" title="A Kiko Kostadinov x Levi's jacket styled with pants from the Dante collection and Kiko Kostadinov x Dr. Martens lace-ups." width="526.4"/>
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                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:14px;mso-line-height-alt:16.8px">
                    <em>
                     <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 13px;">
                      A Kiko Kostadinov x Levi's jacket styled with pants from the Dante collection and Kiko Kostadinov x Dr. Martens lace-ups.
                     </span>
                    </em>
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                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     And then there is Dante, their fifth show of the year and the first time they’ve put men’s and women’s on the runway together. The collection falls somewhere between inside joke and earnest experiment. Kostadinov, who grew up in Bulgaria before moving to London as a teenager, explains that he never really identified with British culture. When he got Dante some four years ago, his distinguished, long-snouted terrier became his strongest link to his adopted home. “Everything we do is a diary or a moment of time in our lives, each collection and reference,” he says.
                    </span>
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                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     He and the Fannings (who hail from Australia) started the line as a way to explore the essence of the British countryside, working with corduroy, wax fabrics, and hunting garments like shooting blazers, which Kostadinov re-shaped with his signature pattern-making wizardry. The garments were made with function in mind, specifically what you might throw on when taking the dog out in the morning. There’s a Japanese jersey sweatshirt embroidered with an “Official Dog Walker” logo, which Kostadinov found on a vintage Orvis sweatshirt (he wore it to his June show in Paris), and a lightweight washed cotton parka and trousers with belt loops fashioned out of leather dog bones. The crazy dog dad vibe is kind of the point, a nod to the little-known line Oliver by Valentino, which Valentino Garavani launched in the ’80s as a tribute to his beloved pug.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     “It was so cute,” Kostadinov says, fiddling with a pair of deadstock Oliver socks embroidered with a tiny pug logo that he had on his desk. “I think they even did a show with Naomi Campbell closing, which is really funny.”
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     In a juxtaposition that feels very Kiko, the Dante gear was already hanging on the racks of the store next to a wall-sized projection of
                     <em>
                      Stunt Tank
                     </em>
                     (2016), a trippy short film by Ryan Trecartin and Lizzie Fitch. Playful fashion merch alongside avant-garde art installation. It’s the only store I’ve been to where you’re greeted by museum-quality wall text on your way in, which speaks to Kostadinov’s goals for the space, which is to keep it flexible, able to accommodate talks or events or whatever their next big idea is. “It’s not just built to sell clothes,” Kostadinov says, “it's something else.”
                    </span>
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                   <a target="_blank">
                    <img alt="Mike Eckhaus, Zoe Latta, and Morgan Spector CFDA 2025" height="auto" src="https://inboxflows.com/_/image/https%253A%252F%252Fmedia.sailthru.com%252Ffss%252Ffbht11%252Ff4f9f11a-f3fa-46c1-852a-43406b42f013%252F0A1A3974%252B1.jpeg/?inbox_flows_img_sig=eyJwYXRoIjoiaHR0cHMlM0ElMkYlMkZtZWRpYS5zYWlsdCIsInRpbWUiOjE3NjI4ODA3NzIuMzU1MDk4N30:1vIroq:8BZ3n0Gt6X7a1O71YHRpckeA91szOjvOhvo4_X-ZR7U" style="display:block;height:auto;border:0;width:100%" title="Mike Eckhaus, Zoe Latta, and Morgan Spector CFDA 2025" width="526.4"/>
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                   <a target="_blank">
                    <img alt="Mike Eckhaus, Zoe Latta, and Morgan Spector CFDA 2025" height="auto" src="https://inboxflows.com/_/image/https%253A%252F%252Fmedia.sailthru.com%252Ffss%252Ffbht11%252F4e5a70c4-8624-43bf-85ec-1a74737d5970%252F0A1A3977.jpeg/?inbox_flows_img_sig=eyJwYXRoIjoiaHR0cHMlM0ElMkYlMkZtZWRpYS5zYWlsdCIsInRpbWUiOjE3NjI4ODA3NzIuMzU1MjA4OX0:1vIroq:8ACUSFp-_z7xNmg6QTZGpLvF4-0nMVQfAvDnFJ7ddno" style="display:block;height:auto;border:0;width:100%" title="Mike Eckhaus, Zoe Latta, and Morgan Spector CFDA 2025" width="526.4"/>
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                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     It’s this imaginative, spontaneous philosophy that draws such a long list of partners to Kostadinov. Large brands in particular can have a tough time appealing to the high-fashion-IQ customer, the kind who would buy a cardigan embroidered with the motif of their favorite designer’s dog, inside of a recontextualized art installation off the beaten path of the East London retail scene. Case in point, Leo Gamboa of Levi’s says that Kostadinov was one of the first people he reached out to when he arrived at Levi’s in 2021. “Kiko is one of the best patternmakers in the world,” Gamboa says. “I was like, this is going to create a point of difference. This is going to adjust the perception of Levi's in a way where people will see it through Kiko's lens.”
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                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     When the designer goes downstairs to check on the last-minute store construction, Gamboa and I take a look at a runway look board showing the Dante pieces styled with the second Kiko Kostadinov x Levi’s collection, which to my surprise includes a full suit—a tuxedo, really, black with satin detailing. The inspiration, Kiko later tells me, is the mildly apocryphal story about Andy Warhol wearing 501s under his tuxedo trousers to the White House.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     Levi’s isn’t really in the tuxedo business, besides the Canadian variety. “We don’t make suits every day,” Gamboa admits, “but it was a great process.” (The tux does have a clear Levi’s connection in the use of Sta-Prest polyester fabric, which the company first introduced in the ’60s.) There’s also a new version of the engineered denim set that sold out in a flash the first time around, which Kostadinov remade in a lightweight washed indigo. “I think the new one is going to have the same effect,” Gamboa predicts.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     Fashion is past peak collaboration, but Kostadinov’s many partnerships—with Levi’s, and with Trecartin and Asics and Morán Morán and Dr. Martens, which also debuted in Friday’s show—still stand out because they add new layers to his enigmatic world. If money was the goal, he and Levi’s would simply reissue new pairs of the $10,000 jeans. Instead, it’s about expanding the brand in unexpected ways. “It’s really about the partner being the best at what they do,” Kostadinov says. Referring to Levi’s, he adds, “It’s not just a quick marketing exchange for them or us. It’s rooted in a product that’s supposed to live within a lot of people’s wardrobes, hopefully.”
                    </span>
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                   <a target="_blank">
                    <img alt="The Kiko Kostadinov Dante runway show" height="auto" src="https://inboxflows.com/_/image/https%253A%252F%252Fmedia.sailthru.com%252Ffss%252Ffbht11%252Fc75e8fac-4e40-4e22-8a90-925e9ad27ca8%252FL1007692.jpg/?inbox_flows_img_sig=eyJwYXRoIjoiaHR0cHMlM0ElMkYlMkZtZWRpYS5zYWlsdCIsInRpbWUiOjE3NjI4ODA3NzIuMzU1MzIxMn0:1vIroq:J_HC-9gu3LGwqNjhkBNeTyQkDZph0j2p-aym9-1p1l0" style="display:block;height:auto;border:0;width:100%" title="The Kiko Kostadinov Dante runway show" width="526.4"/>
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                   <a target="_blank">
                    <img alt="The Kiko Kostadinov Dante runway show" height="auto" src="https://inboxflows.com/_/image/https%253A%252F%252Fmedia.sailthru.com%252Ffss%252Ffbht11%252F360727ea-90ff-435e-8a9b-b9e0cf3f4104%252FL1007697.jpg/?inbox_flows_img_sig=eyJwYXRoIjoiaHR0cHMlM0ElMkYlMkZtZWRpYS5zYWlsdCIsInRpbWUiOjE3NjI4ODA3NzIuMzU1NDIwOH0:1vIroq:h2uLJtaenCanRWOhI7P-0yLWTUyIsjSoxO1801oS5qo" style="display:block;height:auto;border:0;width:100%" title="The Kiko Kostadinov Dante runway show" width="526.4"/>
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                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 13px;">
                     <em>
                      The Kiko Kostadinov Dante runway show // Courtesy of Kiko Kostadinov
                     </em>
                    </span>
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                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     But the most significant recent development in the Kiko Kostadinov universe is that Kiko and Deanna, who got married last year, welcomed a baby girl. When we chat, Kostadinov is tired; their daughter was born only eight weeks before, just before the Fannings’ September womenswear show, and he and Deanna have only been catching a few hours of sleep here and there each night. But you wouldn’t be able to tell later that evening. As the office fills up with friends and superfans alike, Kostadinov bounces between the model lineup, working the room, and taking a barking Dante outside before grabbing a glass of wine and watching his own show from the front row. Afterward, he has a huge smile on his face as he introduces well-wishers to his beloved pup.
                    </span>
                   </p>
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                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     How does Kostadinov do it? “People go through way harder things than making a fashion collection,” he says earlier. “So when we are tired and we're like, oh fuck, this is so intense, I just stop for a second, like, it's my dream to do what I'm doing. If I went back to school at the start of my fashion course and I had a piece of paper and was asked
                     <em>
                      what do you want to do
                     </em>
                     , I couldn’t even write it the way it has happened. The art installation with Ryan Trecartin, the Paris space, the Dash Snow exhibition, the Tokyo and LA stores, the collaborations with Levi's. It is quite epic.”
                    </span>
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                      Before I flew to London to hang with Kiko I hopped on a Zoom with my other favorite fashion designer,
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                       Brad Pitt
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                      , to
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                      his under-the-radar luxury label, God’s True Cashmere. My Men of the Year cover story on
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                       Hailey Bieber
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                      also dropped today, in which Bieber and I chat about her status as one of the world’s most influential models, mothers, and moguls (who sold her beauty brand Rhode for $1 billion). You can read it
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                      and watch the video interview
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                       here
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                      . Finally, I appeared on the podcast
                      <strong>
                       What’s Contemporary Now
                      </strong>
                      to prattle away about the shifting contours of menswear and masculinity, which you can find
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