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  <title>
   How the ‘Neo-Vintage’ Era Became the Hottest Thing in Watches
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   Watches from the 1980s and 1990s hit the sweet spot between value, reliability, and soul.
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                    Courtesy of Alfredo Paramico
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                      Hi friends: It’s me, Cam. I'm on parental leave at the moment. Out of your inbox, but hopefully never gone from your hearts. Thankfully, we've sent one of our top minds into the Box + Papers laboratory. Jeremy Freed, a very sharp writer and longtime contributor to
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                     <em>
                      ’s watch coverage, is your trusty guide through the horological world until I return in mid-March. See you soon. —Cam Wolf
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                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     There are a lot of
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      vintage watch enthusiasts
                     </a>
                     in the world, but
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      Alfredo Paramico
                     </a>
                     has elevated the pursuit of rare, beautiful timepieces into an art form. Remember that
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      steel Patek Philippe ref. 1518
                     </a>
                     that sold for more than $17 million last year? He owned the first one ever made. Want to see a watch box filled with a dozen bejeweled ’90s
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      Rolex Daytonas
                     </a>
                     ? If you ask nicely, he might show you his. If he weren’t so inclined to modesty, he might also tell you about the time he started a $25-million investment fund made up entirely of watches that outperformed the S&amp;P 500. All of which is to say that as one of the world’s most respected collectors, Paramico has devoted decades to learning about, hunting down, and acquiring the sort of watches that most enthusiasts can only dream of owning. These days, however, he spends a lot of time thinking about watches from the 1990s.
                    </span>
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                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     Paramico is one of many collectors increasingly drawn to a segment of watch history known as the “neo-vintage” period. Its boundaries are fuzzy, but the consensus seems to be that it started in the early-mid 1980s, peaked in the ’90s, and ended in the early aughts. For those of us who’ve been immersed in the mania around 1960s
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      chronographs
                     </a>
                     and 1970s
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      integrated bracelet
                     </a>
                     watches for the last few years, it may come as a surprise that the era of low-rise jeans, Chumbawamba, and
                     <em>
                      Baywatch Nights
                     </em>
                     was an incredibly rich time for watchmaking. Nonetheless, according to Paramico and a bunch of other members of
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      the Watch Illuminati
                     </a>
                     , the neo-vintage period, which marked the turning point from the true vintage era into the modern one, might be the most important stretch of the 20th century for watchmaking.
                    </span>
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                  <p style="margin:0">
                   <em>
                    Alfredo Paramico’s boxful of iced-out Daytonas.
                   </em>
                  </p>
                 </div>
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                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     Perhaps the best argument in favor of neo-vintage is its value, particularly for classic tool watches. With the vintage looks of their forebears, the reliability of modern movements, and prices well below those of their 21st-century descendants, these watches offer a best-of-both-worlds scenario. “A [1990s]
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      Speedmaster
                     </a>
                     still looks like a Speedmaster from the ’60s; a
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      Submariner
                     </a>
                     still looks like a Submariner from the ’60s. The sizes remain the same, the general layout and configuration remain the same, the only things that were really different from the earlier versions were some of the materials,” says James Lamdin, the founder of
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      Analog:Shift
                     </a>
                     and a longtime neo-vintage evangelist. These watches also use tritium lume on their dials instead of modern Super-LumiNova, which ages more like old-school radium, lending them the warm tones of a classic vintage watch. “For a lot of people, it's that aging of the material, going from white to this warm yellow cream vibe, that gives each watch its unique character and an element of romance,” Lamdin says.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     Call it what you will—romance, patina,
                     <em>
                      vibes
                     </em>
                     —neo-vintage watches, their proponents insist, were the last generation made with a similar level of care, craftsmanship, and attention to detail as those from the golden eras of the mid-20th century. “As much as I don’t want to sound like an old man complaining, modern watches are more devoid of soul,” says Erik Gustafson, the founder of
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      Hairspring Watches
                     </a>
                     . “The finishing standards, proportions, and case designs of neo-vintage often align closer with my personal tastes, and I suspect that’s true for many. Handcraft matters, and it’s become rarer and rarer.”
                    </span>
                   </p>
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                  <p style="margin:0">
                   <em>
                    An ’80s-era Audemars Piguet Quantième Perpétuel. // Courtesy of Alfredo Paramico
                   </em>
                  </p>
                 </div>
                </td>
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                <td class="pad" style="padding-bottom:25px;padding-left:15px;padding-right:15px;padding-top:25px">
                 <div style="font-family:Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif">
                  <div class="" style="font-family:Georgia,Times,'Times New Roman',serif;font-size:12px;mso-line-height-alt:18px;color:#000;line-height:1.5">
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     This is particularly true the higher you climb up the neo-vintage hierarchy. When
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      G-Shocks
                     </a>
                     ,
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      Swatch Jellyfish
                     </a>
                     , and
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      Casio
                     </a>
                     calculator watches were having their heyday in the 1980s, the best minds in Swiss watchmaking were getting ready to mount a comeback with a string of old-school horological bangers.
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      Blancpain
                     </a>
                     was among the first to come out swinging with its collection of classic complications, dubbed the Six Masterpieces, including a
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      perpetual calendar
                     </a>
                     and a
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      minute repeater
                     </a>
                     .
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      IWC
                     </a>
                     launched its historic Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar (the first that could be adjusted entirely via its crown), Ulysse Nardin released the Astrolabium Galileo Galilei (a miniaturized astrolabe that held the Guinness record for most complications), and
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      Audemars Piguet
                     </a>
                     released the world’s first self-winding tourbillon. These were followed by countless other modern-day grails ranging from the first-ever
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      Patek Philippe
                     </a>
                     ref. 5035, a.k.a. the world’s first annual calendar, to the reborn “pre-Vendôme”
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      Panerai
                     </a>
                     Luminor.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     It’s this revival of traditional watchmaking against the tide of electronic quartz timekeeping that captivates collectors like Paramico. “By the late 1980s and early 1990s, a number of extraordinarily talented individuals, true visionaries and master watchmakers—driven by a deep desire to reconnect with the golden era of Swiss watchmaking from the 1950s—revived the tradition of mechanical horology,” he says. “That spirit of renaissance, of rebuilding an industry with passion, creativity, and technical mastery, is what makes 1990s watches so special to me.”
                    </span>
                   </p>
                  </div>
                 </div>
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                  <div style="max-width:560px">
                   <a target="_blank">
                    <img alt="Raymond Weil Millesime" height="auto" src="https://inboxflows.com/_/image/https%253A%252F%252Fmedia.sailthru.com%252Ffss%252Ffbht11%252F5f001eac-0c0e-4094-b859-90bcba8ec9e4%252FDSC01733.jpeg/?inbox_flows_img_sig=eyJwYXRoIjoiaHR0cHMlM0ElMkYlMkZtZWRpYS5zYWlsdCIsInRpbWUiOjE3NzM0MTgyMzAuNjIzNTU2MX0:1w155q:xhH3QLSnC8PXlX6d3MxpbEo_sW9OBEewrWxQTkyRYOA" style="display:block;height:auto;border:0;width:100%" title="Raymond Weil Millesime" width="560"/>
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                  <p style="margin:0">
                   <em>
                    A. Lange &amp; Söhne’s Datograph Flyback in platinum.// Courtesy of Alfredo Paramico
                   </em>
                  </p>
                 </div>
                </td>
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                  <div class="" style="font-family:Georgia,Times,'Times New Roman',serif;font-size:12px;mso-line-height-alt:18px;color:#000;line-height:1.5">
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     If there’s one name that personifies all that is great about watches from the ’90s, it might be
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      A. Lange &amp; Söhne
                     </a>
                     . Based in Glashütte, Germany, and reborn in 1994 following the fall of the Berlin Wall, Lange (pronounced lung-GUH), embodied the creative spirit of the decade in its unmistakable
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      Lange 1
                     </a>
                     , and god-tier neo-vintage-heads like Paramico can’t get enough of it. “I’m deeply focused on neo-vintage watchmaking with A. Lange &amp; Söhne at the core,” he says. Paramico is also into
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      Breguet
                     </a>
                     ,
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      Vacheron Constantin
                     </a>
                     , and
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      Audemars Piguet
                     </a>
                     , particularly the latter’s skeletonized perpetual calendars (“where technical complexity and design reach a rare equilibrium”), but in his eyes, it’s Lange’s meticulous engineering and unique design that set it apart. “I’m completely captivated by the Teutonic beauty and reliability of A. Lange &amp; Söhne,” he says. “Their watches express restraint, precision, depth, and understatement in their purest form.”
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     Alongside the renaissance happening among the world’s top brands, the ’90s also saw the rebirth of independent watchmaking, and the rise of celebrity watchmakers like
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      Roger Dubuis
                     </a>
                     ,
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      F.P. Journe
                     </a>
                     ,
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      Philippe Dufour
                     </a>
                     ,
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      Daniel Roth
                     </a>
                     , and—perhaps most notably for anyone looking to get into neo-vintage now—
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      Franck Muller.
                     </a>
                     While F.P. Journe’s ’90s watches are firmly in the six-and seven-figure range, and Daniel Roth has been reanimated by Louis Vuitton, Muller’s oeuvre gets nowhere near the recognition it once did.
                    </span>
                   </p>
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                  <p style="margin:0">
                   <em>
                    An early ’90s Frank Mueller watch featuring a perpetual calendar and moonphase. // Courtesy of Alfredo Paramico
                   </em>
                  </p>
                 </div>
                </td>
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              </table>
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                 <div style="font-family:Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif">
                  <div class="" style="font-family:Georgia,Times,'Times New Roman',serif;font-size:12px;mso-line-height-alt:18px;color:#000;line-height:1.5">
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     A former restoration specialist at Patek Philippe, Muller launched his namesake brand in 1991, and soon earned the nickname “the master of complications” for his groundbreaking horological inventions. Among the zaniest of these was the Crazy Hours Color Dreams, which flaunted multicolored numerals arranged at random around the dial, and an hour hand that moved erratically between each one in sequential order. Franck Muller (both the man and the brand) would fly too close to the sun in later decades, but it’s hard to overstate how significant his watches—distinguished by their barrel-shaped cases, wacky Art Nouveau numerals, and unusual complications—were in their prime. “I was not there in the ’90s, but I’ve talked to plenty of collectors and enthusiasts who were, and everybody who was anybody in New York City had a Franck Muller,” says Lamdin. “It really did define an era.”
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      Like many of the more adventurous designs of the Y2K era
                     </a>
                     , Franck Muller isn’t going to vibe with everyone, but the diversity of neo-vintage is perhaps its greatest allure. If your jam is a hand-wound Speedmaster with an acrylic crystal, the ’90s is prime territory to find a bargain on one. If dressier watches are your thing, you can dip a toe into the world of Breguet and Blancpain when they were at their feistiest. Or, if you have a little more to spend, you can chase down an early Lange 1, a watch that is sure to earn you nods of approval among serious collectors. Whatever tickles your fancy, you might not want to wait too long to pull the trigger. If the tool watch mania of the last decade has taught us anything, neo-vintage won’t be slept on for much longer.
                    </span>
                   </p>
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