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   How to Watch a Fashion Show
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   More people have opinions about clothes than ever before. That’s a good thing. But how to evaluate a runway show? That’s still rarefied. Here’s how to do it.
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                      Runway photograph: Courtesy of Samuel Hine.
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                      In addition to the newsletter you know and love, Show Notes will now appear as a column in the print edition of
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                     GQ
                     <em>
                      . The following is the first installment from the March issue. In the magazine, you can expect Show Notes to tackle the culture of fashion in ways big and small—next month’s column is about my favorite fashion week haunts in Milan. Many thanks to the artist Andrew Kuo, with whom I’m collaborating on the graphics.
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                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     <strong>
                      I was recently
                     </strong>
                     scrolling on TikTok when I came across a video from a guy whose disembodied head was bobbing in front of a green-screened model wearing an elaborately tailored dress. “I don’t know anything about fashion,” the guy wryly declared, “and today I’ll be reviewing the Thom Browne show.”
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                     The joke is that he’s doing something a lot of people on the Internet do: confidently judge fashion collections despite having no idea what they’re talking about. I have a bit more professional authority. In my role as GQ’s global fashion correspondent, I attended 111 runway shows last year, which means that in 2025, I probably saw something like 5,000 pairs of pants on catwalks all around the world, from Paris to Seoul to the undersung fashion capital of the American South known as New Orleans.
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                     Most runway shows accommodate maybe a dozen serious reviewers. But where before members of the international press corps competed with each other, now the pressure is coming from outside the arena. Luxury fashion brands spent the last decade demanding attention from the masses, and now that they’ve got it. Everybody—from your favorite influencer to your aunt to your proverbial swagless homie—has a hot take about Jonathan Anderson’s stewardship of the codes of Christian Dior.
                    </span>
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                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     I say: Bring it on! You certainly don’t need to be an expert to care about or judge luxury fashion, and the rise of thousands of critics surfing the algorithm has generated an exciting, edgy energy that permeates the major fashion weeks. But this phenomenon has also generated waves of baseless put-downs, ignorant analysis, and AI-generated slop (a dead giveaway is when the clothes “whispered”).
                    </span>
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                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     Things got so heated last fall during the so-called season of change, where over a dozen designers debuted at new houses, that the creative director and editor Edward Buchanan had to post a public call for civility. “Please bring some intelligent criticism to the table otherwise it’s just a troll fest from the comfort of your homes,” he
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      wrote
                     </a>
                     on Instagram.
                    </span>
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                   </p>
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                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     So I figured I should share what goes through my mind at a runway show. Because if you’re going to turn your couch into a front row, you shouldn’t spam runway show livestreams with vomit emojis. You should try to engage deeply with what you’re seeing. It will help you hone a sharper sense of what you like, what you want to wear—and ultimately who you are.
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                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     <strong>
                      1. Do your homework.
                     </strong>
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     That doesn’t mean memorizing ’80s YSL collections before an Anthony Vaccarello production, but establishing a firm grasp of the history of a brand and the designer.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     <strong>
                      2. Consider the context.
                     </strong>
                    </span>
                   </p>
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                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     It’s important to spend some time thinking about how the work has shaped—or is shaped by—wider trends and conversations in menswear.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     <strong>
                      3. Catch a preshow vibe.
                     </strong>
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     Once I’m done preening for street-style photographers, I conduct recon in the venue. Who’s sitting in the front row? What are people gossiping about? It’s important to establish the stakes and expectations. If you’re at home, you can get plenty of table setting on social media. I tap into the online chatter once I’m settled in my seat and waiting for the lights to go down.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     <strong>
                      4. Focus.
                     </strong>
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     The most successful shows situate the clothes in a distinct world, propose a strong idea for how people should dress next, and articulate who the designer is and what they care about. Pay attention to the soundtrack, the casting, the whiz-bang catwalk pyrotechnics, and, of course, the clothes themselves.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     <strong>
                      5. Create your ultimate criteria.
                     </strong>
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     If the designer’s sensibility is coming through loud and clear, then the fun really begins. Here’s where I start thinking about how what I’m seeing does or doesn’t succeed. High on my list of priorities is newness, and I don’t mean clothes that look like they’re from Mars. It’s harder to make a beautiful men’s suit look totally fresh than it is to invent a whacky new garment; a true runway maestro like the late Giorgio Armani could reinvigorate men’s tailoring every 6 months.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     <strong>
                      6. Engage with the designer.
                     </strong>
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     Intent is crucial. I usually hold off my ultimate judgment until I’ve sprinted backstage for a post-show confab with the designer. You can read their collection notes (and watch the postshow scrum on TikTok).
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     <strong>
                      7. Look out for the magic.
                     </strong>
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     Every once in a while, a show has the immense emotional alchemy of great art or theater—and I find myself practically speechless. The best fashion shows make you feel something. As do the worst ones. It’s important to know the difference between the two.
                    </span>
                   </p>
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                      <strong>
                       Bryan Johnson
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                      is
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                       apparently
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                      walking in a show today. Will he framemog Clavic—sorry. I’ll stop. I’m guessing he’s gracing the runway for Matières Fécales, which sounds like something Johnson would be very concerned about; the brand was founded by body-modding duo
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                      and
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                      .
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                     <strong>
                      What Else to Watch This Week: Jack McCollough
                     </strong>
                     and
                     <strong>
                      Lazaro Hernandez
                     </strong>
                     of Loewe will show their first men’s looks for Loewe on Friday…
                     <strong>
                      Pierpaolo Piccioli
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                     will similarly put his menswear on the Balenciaga runway for the first time on Saturday… The
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      2026 LVMH Prize semifinalists
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                     will be presenting their work starting tomorrow. Though the competition is mostly geared toward emerging womenswear designers, since 2022, 50% of the LVMH Prizes (including the runner-up Karl Lagerfeld Prize) have gone to designers who work primarily in menswear, and there are plenty of brands for the men’s crowd to root for this time around, including Derrick by
                     <strong>
                      Luke Derrick,
                     </strong>
                     who
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      won London Fashion Week
                     </a>
                     this season;
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      perennial favorite
                     </a>
                     Kartik Research by
                     <strong>
                      Kartik Kumra
                     </strong>
                     ;
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                      New York’s very own
                     </a>
                     Lii by
                     <strong>
                      Zane Li
                     </strong>
                     ; and emerging Auralee and A.Presse
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      competitor
                     </a>
                     Ssstein by
                     <strong>
                      Kiichiro Asakawa
                     </strong>
                     .
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