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   ‘Need Those Jeans’: It’s Tom Ford Mania at Paris Fashion Week
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   Haider Ackermann’s glamorous ’90s fever dream had martinis, Love Story’s Paul Anthony Kelly, and to-die-for denim.
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                      Tom Ford Fall 2026 // All images courtesy of Tom Ford
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                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     The morning after
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      Haider Ackermann
                     </a>
                     ’s Tom Ford fall 2026 show, I woke up in Paris to a text from my cousin, Max, a 24-year old photographer who lives in New York and is—like a lot of his friends—obsessed with Tom Ford-era Gucci. Ford has loomed large in fashion for the past few seasons,
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      even as the designer is happily retired
                     </a>
                     from his namesake brand and is currently shooting a film in Rome. At Gucci, for example, Demna has
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      tapped into a hedonistic aura
                     </a>
                     by raiding the archive of Ford’s shrunken, sexy, clingy clubwear. The Tom Ford effect is also evident in the various other catwalks awash in leather and sequins, and in the silhouettes that are slimming and sharpening left and right.
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                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     Zoomers are snapping up archival Tom Ford for a bunch of reasons. It has just the right price-to-vibe ratio—it’s relatively affordable but packs a punch. The clothes also speak to an authenticity of the pre-social media age they never got to experience, where style was perhaps more honest and instinctive.
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                   </p>
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                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     So of course my cousin was following Ackermann’s third show for the house he inherited in 2024. Max’s review was succinct: “Wow, that Tom Ford show was so good,” he wrote. And then he added: “Need those jeans.”
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                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     Those jeans! Of all his peers, Ackermann is the truest steward of Ford’s legacy, and he’s also an expert dancer. He knows a thing or two about rhythm and crescendo. And after 40-some looks had prowled around the cream-carpeted catwalk on Wednesday evening, in a choreographed parade of wonderfully perverse Patrick Bateman-esque power dressing, the crowd was just catching its breath when a Nick Cave lookalike charged out in a chunky black cashmere turtleneck and a pair of high-waisted blue jeans.
                    </span>
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                   </p>
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                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     Ackermann has turned out leather jock straps and miles of velvet in his fresh Tom Ford tenure, where his first two shows were electric exercises in seduction. But he had never shown jeans (arguably the most charged men’s garment). And boy were these enticing.
                    </span>
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                   </p>
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                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     There was plenty to make the pulse race. Ackermann has defined his shape at Tom Ford with trim jackets and long trousers that pool over pointy leather boots. After waiters served platters of pre-show martinis (gin, with a twist), the boys who opened the show under a retina-searing white light wore their trousers a size or two too big, their belts slung over their bare hips exposing a slice of erogenous flesh. A trio of Wall Street characters wore banker shirts with kinky leather collars and slim ties tucked into their languid wool suit pants.
                    </span>
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                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     By contrast, the jeans were devilishly slim, with a dark Y2K wash and prominent whiskering at the hips and knees. Another model wore them with a tuxedo jacket—the Ralph look done the Ford way—and a third paired his with a tight black sweater and hitman leather gloves.
                    </span>
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                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     Ackermann didn’t chat with the press afterward—apparently the designer wanted the clothes to speak for themselves. I left satisfied. At risk of overstatement, the jeans were the single coolest garment I have seen in a season where the best shoes have featured real clothes that real people would die to wear right this very moment. They hit somewhere in between what Patrick Bateman might wear off-duty, and
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      ’90s celebrity airport style
                     </a>
                     .
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     Or perhaps JFK Jr. would have pulled them on in his heyday, if he was a Gucci rather than Calvin guy. In the front row,
                     <em>
                      Love Story
                     </em>
                     star
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      Paul Anthony Kelly
                     </a>
                     joined the rest of the crowd in a loud and lengthy ovation. Beforehand, Kelly remarked that “everything that Haider does is amazing.” Especially jeans, as it turns out.
                    </span>
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                    <strong>
                     <u>
                      <em>
                       <a rel="noopener" style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;" target="_blank">
                        Click here to see more looks from the show.
                       </a>
                      </em>
                     </u>
                    </strong>
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                      Late on Tuesday night, a cramped Mexican restaurant in the 11th arrondissement was packed with fashion people:
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                       Kai Isiah-Jamal
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                      was holding it down with a crew of exuberant London show-goers in the back. Models, stylists, photographers, and New Yorkers popped between the sidewalk and the bar for more mezcal margaritas. This was the scene at
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                       Tarántula
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                      , a new-ish bistrot by chef
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                        Emmanuel Peña Treviño
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                      , a Monterrey native who moved to Paris 15 years ago and opened his cantina at the end of 2024. How did Tarántula become a fashion hotspot? For one, Treviño is a stylish guy who has collaborated with
                      <strong>
                       Willy Chavarria
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                      . It recently hosted
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                       Dua Lipa
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                      and
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                       Callum Turner
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                      , so there’s a celeb factor at play as well. Most importantly, I can attest that after a week of French food, nothing hit like some spicy tuna crudo and a short-rib taco.
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