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   Talking Jeans with Tremaine Emory
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                      Courtesy of Denim Tears // Illustration by Armando Zaragoza
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                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     Earlier this week,
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      Tremaine Emory
                     </a>
                     launched what might have been one of the most ephemeral wheatpaste campaigns in the history of SoHo. Emory was debuting a line of Denim Tears jeans, the first to be made entirely by his brand after years of collaborating with Levi’s. The posters, printed on thin sheets of actual denim fabric, read “DENIM TEARS DENIM BY DENIM TEARS.” (Spot the Marc Jacobs reference.)
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                     When I walked through the neighborhood on Tuesday on my way to the
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      Denim Tears store
                     </a>
                     on Spring Street, not a shred of indigo cotton was left anywhere in sight. Fans had been following the wheatpaste crews around and gingerly peeling the posters off as soon as they went up. “I haven’t even seen them in the flesh,” Emory told me, chuckling. “But I saw some videos of people taking them.”
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                     To be clear, as far as Emory is concerned, the poster pilfering is fantastic, one of many signs of how much energy he has captured with his unapologetically political sportswear label. Another one: When I entered the Denim Tears shop under a prominent sign that says “African Diaspora Goods,” a gaggle of white preteens were using their parents’ credit cards to buy sweatpants.
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                     Yet another sign: The cotton wreath motif that is emblazoned across the new denim line is recognizable (and bootlegged) the world over, a remarkable trajectory for a symbol that Emory devised in 2020 to signify cotton’s deep roots in American slavery.
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                      Courtesy of Denim Tears
                     </em>
                    </span>
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                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     Emory’s wild success and influence hasn’t come easy. There was the aneurysm that
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      almost killed him
                     </a>
                     in 2022, followed by his subsequent controversial exit
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      from Supreme
                     </a>
                     . And he’s had to contend with frequent sniping from critics who take issue with what they see as the commodification of painful histories. (To Emory, having these kinds of uncomfortable conversations is precisely the point.)
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     And yet, even as we’re told that woke is dead, Denim Tears—a brand originally devised as a way to Trojan Horse Black cultural narratives into the clout-drenched streetwear arena—is stronger than ever. The label does tens of millions in annual sales, and has reportedly doubled its revenues every year. Emory has minted collaborations with Dior, Stüssy, Comme des Garçons, and the Rolling Stones in addition to the wildly popular Levi’s partnership. A Tokyo store is set to open in 2026.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     According to Emory, the new jeans program means that Denim Tears can be “as nimble as we want to be.” “It’s not an end to us working with Levi’s, it’s really about being able to switch up more often,” he said. The made-in-LA line includes trucker jackets and straight and baggy fit jeans in a range of washes, some printed with cotton wreaths and some without.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     You can guess which ones will be the first to disappear from the shelves when they drop on December 12. Already, the launch has been greeted as significant, a win for Denim Tears and Emory’s supporters. As one commenter put it on Instagram: “Went over their heads already. Homegrown 💙.”
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     <strong>
                      You were inspired by the artist Kara Walker to introduce the cotton wreath motif in early 2020. Did you ever expect it to become so ubiquitous?
                     </strong>
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     No, no way. I was grateful just to be able to come up with something that I felt was genuine. So to have it adopted by so many people, and the demand for it, and the bootlegs, the discourse about it, all of it has been incredible. I’m very grateful for it, but I did not predict it. This is what I knew: I knew it was beautiful, and I knew it had depth. And I know when you create something that is beautiful and has depth, anything is possible.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                  </div>
                 </div>
                </td>
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                 <div align="center" class="alignment">
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                   <a target="_blank">
                    <img alt="Denim Tears jeans by Tremaine Emory" height="auto" src="https://inboxflows.com/_/image/https%253A%252F%252Fmedia.sailthru.com%252Ffss%252Ffbht11%252F876f0cc3-740b-4128-890b-64c3f62d75d4%252FDAV02661%252B1.jpeg/?inbox_flows_img_sig=eyJwYXRoIjoiaHR0cHMlM0ElMkYlMkZtZWRpYS5zYWlsdCIsInRpbWUiOjE3NjU1NTg3MTguNjIyNjM4fQ:1vU6TW:lUUdSx_cRdi7FRHYmwA_YeRUWdGyXIuuMkd7V9OUkVM" style="display:block;height:auto;border:0;width:100%" title="Denim Tears jeans by Tremaine Emory" width="526.4"/>
                   </a>
                  </div>
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               </tr>
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              <table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="text_block block-9" role="presentation" style="mso-table-lspace:0;mso-table-rspace:0;word-break:break-word" width="100%">
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                 <div style="font-family:sans-serif">
                  <div class="" style="font-size:14px;font-family:Helvetica Neue,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;mso-line-height-alt:16.8px;color:#a7a5a5;line-height:1.2">
                   <p style="margin:0;mso-line-height-alt:16.8px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 12px;">
                     <em>
                      The Levi's that inspired Tremaine Emory's Denim Tears moniker // Courtesy of Denim Tears
                     </em>
                    </span>
                   </p>
                  </div>
                 </div>
                </td>
               </tr>
              </table>
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                 <div style="font-family:sans-serif">
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                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     <strong>
                      When it gets bootlegged and the more people wear it all over the world, the original intent behind it becomes sort of abstracted. Does it matter if people know what it means?
                     </strong>
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     I think that the interesting part about symbols is that they remain whether they’re recognized or not. So for me, even if it’s a bootleg and it’s worn by someone that has no idea what it means, they’re still a billboard for the message. If someone doesn’t know a peace symbol is a peace symbol, it’s still a peace symbol. A peace symbol is a talisman for peace. And the cotton wreath is a talisman for America. Most people don’t know that denim was originally called Negro cloth and it was worn by slaves. Indigo dying was brought over from Africa and done by slaves. So denim fabric started with oppression, started with slavery, and became this iconic American thing. It’s the most sold clothing item in the history of humanity.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     I was lucky enough to run into
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      Ken Burns
                     </a>
                     last month. He’s one of my favorite artists of all time. It was at a little cafe in SoHo, and I caught him in the morning picking up my Greek yogurt before work. I had just watched the Ernest Hemingway documentary he did, and I just started the one he’s done on jazz music. So I was just talking to him about how incredible the work he and his team does, and he was talking about the importance of PBS. He just said it’s important for everyone to see this stuff. You can’t understand humanity by just looking at horrible things, and you can’t understand humanity by just looking at the beautiful things that humans have done. You have to look at all of it. So I do my best to do that in my own way, like he does, but through my clothing brand. Sometimes we talk about slavery, and sometimes we talk about Alvin Ailey and Melvin Van Peebles and so on. But I’m not an academic. I’m a maker. I’m a creative director. So I get put onto things through these conversations too. It’s not just a one-way street. It’s fun, man.
                    </span>
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                        Read the full interview on GQ.com
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                      Show Notes Tip Sheet
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                     <p aria-level="1" style="margin:0;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                      <strong>
                       Fashion Santa:
                      </strong>
                      Luxury brands are starting to send out their end-of-year gifts to fashion people, an annual custom where those on the nice list get a new handbag and those on the naughty list get coal (or a Panettone). I kid, sort of: gone are the days when the Condé Nast and Hearst mail trolleys would be heaving with piles of Chanel shoppers this time of year. But some brands have taken the opportunity to create real social media moments, particularly Balenciaga, which this year sent out custom Balenci-themed Monopoly board games. I’m bringing mine home for the holidays and I look forward to explaining to my family why Boardwalk has been replaced by Paris Couture Salons.
                     </p>
                    </li>
                    <li>
                     <strong>
                      Retail Report:
                     </strong>
                     The tiny and fantastic SC103 store
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      opens today
                     </a>
                     on Henry Street. When I stopped by last night for a glass of champagne with the brand’s genius founders
                     <strong>
                      Claire McKinney
                     </strong>
                     and
                     <strong>
                      Sophie Andes-Gascon
                     </strong>
                     , I thought about what
                     <strong>
                      Chris Black
                     </strong>
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      told me
                     </a>
                     the other week. At the best stores, he said, “You walk in and the smell is right, the music is right, the temperature is right, the furniture is beautiful, and you want to buy something.” Bingo! On another note, I am mourning the
                     <strong>
                      Maryam Nassir Zadeh
                     </strong>
                     store, which opened in 2008(!) and is set to close later this month. They had the best men’s trousers in the city and the coolest girls worked there. Zadeh is continuing the brand from Paris, where she moved to take a design job with
                     <strong>
                      Jack McCollough
                     </strong>
                     and
                     <strong>
                      Lazaro Hernandez
                     </strong>
                     at Loewe.
                    </li>
                    <li>
                     <p aria-level="1" style="margin:0;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                      <strong>
                       Merch Madness:
                      </strong>
                      When I reported on the
                      <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                       Marty Supreme jacket craze
                      </a>
                      , someone had recently purchased a red version of the viral windbreaker on Grailed for a cool $4,000. Now, even though
                      <strong>
                       Timothée Chalamet
                      </strong>
                      has held pop-ups in São Paolo and Los Angeles and more supply has hit the market, prices on the resale market remain staggeringly high. Over on StockX, the Nahmias-made jackets are going for around $2,000. (Retail at the NYC shop was $250.) As of Friday morning, two more Marty Supreme jackets have changed hands on Grailed for
                      <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                       over $1,000
                      </a>
                      . If you’re going to the London pop-up tomorrow, good luck!
                     </p>
                    </li>
                   </ul>
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