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The Fall 2026 Menswear Shows I Can’t Stop Thinking About
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Comme des Garçons Homme Plus // Peter White // Getty Images
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<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
By the time I found myself deliriously laughing at a frowny-face handbag on the last day of Paris Fashion Week, I knew that I had seen enough clothes for one season.
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
The bag was courtesy of earnest but irreverent Japanese label Doublet, a sendup of Celine’s optimistic Luggage tote, the one with a side zipper that curls into a cute smile. It was soon followed by a couple more anthropomorphized accessories: one bag mimicked the crying laughing emoji, while another vomited a strip of green leather out of its unzipped mouth.
</span>
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</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
In a way, it was fitting that the fall 2026 men’s shows culminated in a surreal showcase of pure fashion brainrot. Over the course of five days in Paris, all of the prevailing menswear trends went out the window. Some designers proposed skinny jeans; others pushed ginormous pants. The preppy renaissance that’s currently hitting stores? That felt quaint as the catwalks swarmed with nuanced characters who couldn’t be so easily defined. It was enough to make your head spin as the vibes ping-ponged between chastity and sex, elegance and punk, formality and leisure.
</span>
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</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
To be clear: I loved it, even if it felt overwhelming. But I’d rather that than be underwhelmed.
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
The menswear shows can sometimes strike only one safe note, as if men don’t have the imagination to think beyond cashmere overcoats. But this season the collections felt alive to the many different ways men can be in 2026. They were not all great; some brands are stuck in cruise control. But with so much uncertainty ahead, the best designers took unexpected detours. They challenged themselves to think differently, embracing the chaos in the air and inviting their audience to sink their teeth into bold new ideas (and maybe a little brainrot, too).
</span>
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</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
You can find all my coverage from the season
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
here
</a>
, and read my reviews of the shows that squarely nailed this moment, including
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
Dior Men’s
</a>
,
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
Prada
</a>
,
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
Auralee
</a>
, and
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
Rick Owens
</a>
.
</span>
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<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
Now, with so much interesting menswear out there, I wanted to highlight the best of the rest.
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
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<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
<strong>
Comme des Garçons Homme Plus
</strong>
</span>
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Peter White // Getty Images
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<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
Backstage, a woman standing next to the sphinxlike
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
Rei Kawakubo
</a>
was sobbing uncontrollably. We had just seen a powerhouse Comme collection. Titled “Black Hole,” it was a funereal procession of fantasy formalwear, mostly in black, the models’ faces obscured by horror film hockey masks, like a bunch of Tim Burton characters had escaped from the asylum. It was unsettling and a little kinky, with some jackets shortened to expose a flash of pale midriff. The only hint at what Kawakubo was after was painted on leather derby shoes: “Wear Your Freedom.”
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</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
And then out of darkness came light. Eight models emerged together dressed in all white, their suit jackets adorned with flowery appendages over primitive furry tunics and dresses. Was it a statement about finding that freedom? A gesture of creative rebirth? A rare flourish of optimism from an enigmatic, angry genius? Kawakubo’s lips were typically sealed. What is certain is that it was a big bang of beauty that none who were there will soon forget, a profound emotional eruption from one of the all-time greats.
</span>
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<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
<strong>
Kiko Kostadinov
</strong>
</span>
</p>
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Richard Bord // Getty Images
</span>
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<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
What a brave and interesting collection from
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
Kiko Kostadinov
</a>
. The Bulgarian-British wunderkind decided to do a season with “no vibes or characters,” as he put it. What was left were monastic cloaks, demure tops, streamlined jackets, and other deceptively simple forms sculpted by Kostadinov’s intricate patternmaking. It was pure, uncut Kiko, with no bags, prints, or even visible zippers or buttons. The buyers on the other side of the room might have been quietly freaking out as they considered merchandising Kiko’s monk era, but I read it as a timely reminder that so many brands are all vibes and characters, hiding a lack of true vision behind clever styling and imagemaking. For his part, Kostadinov simply said that he “wanted to focus on being excited about making things again.”
</span>
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<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
<strong>
Dries Van Noten
</strong>
</span>
</p>
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<p style="margin:0;mso-line-height-alt:16.8px">
<em>
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 13px;">
Victor Virgile // Getty Images
</span>
</em>
</p>
</div>
</div>
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</tr>
</table>
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<div class="" style="font-size:12px;font-family:Helvetica Neue,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;mso-line-height-alt:18px;color:#000;line-height:1.5">
<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
There was a strange shortage of great knitwear this season—but not at Dries Van Noten. In another confident outing for his
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
mentor’s namesake brand
</a>
, Klausner cooked up a buffet of irresistible, colorful knitwear, including chunky vests, rabbit-ear hats, ski sweaters, and a fantastic car coat. Backstage, he described playing with the coming-of-age ritual of leaving home. “With this idea of leaving the nest, this special moment, knitwear is so comforting,” Klausner said. “It’s a special feeling when you put your favorite sweater on.” I was particularly enticed by the knit tops in look 17 and 29, which have a double-zip panel on the chest that can be removed and swapped with other patterns.
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
<strong>
Kartik Research
</strong>
</span>
</p>
</div>
</div>
</td>
</tr>
</table>
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<a target="_blank">
<img alt="Kartik Research 2026" height="auto" src="https://inboxflows.com/_/image/https%253A%252F%252Fmedia.sailthru.com%252Ffss%252Ffbht11%252F72598ed4-6e7a-4c29-9454-3f95ffed7aad%252FGettyImages-2257671581_4.jpeg/?inbox_flows_img_sig=eyJwYXRoIjoiaHR0cHMlM0ElMkYlMkZtZWRpYS5zYWlsdCIsInRpbWUiOjE3Njk1MzM5NjguNjk2NTg2OH0:1vkmcS:xkVO2LDCwoT-ymrHG4Ep9PrkBj8y97HCeddWQLCqyws" style="display:block;height:auto;border:0;width:100%" title="Kartik Research 2026" width="526.4"/>
</a>
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</div>
</td>
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</table>
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<p style="margin:0;mso-line-height-alt:16.8px">
<em>
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 13px;">
Lyvans Boolaky // Getty Images
</span>
</em>
</p>
</div>
</div>
</td>
</tr>
</table>
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="text_block block-15" role="presentation" style="mso-table-lspace:0;mso-table-rspace:0;word-break:break-word" width="100%">
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<td class="pad" style="padding-bottom:10px;padding-left:25px;padding-right:25px;padding-top:10px">
<div style="font-family:sans-serif">
<div class="" style="font-size:12px;font-family:Helvetica Neue,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;mso-line-height-alt:18px;color:#000;line-height:1.5">
<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
Backstage before his biggest show yet, Kartik Kumra of Kartik Research said that NYC mayor Zohran Mamdani had been following the brand for years before he
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
wore a floral jacquard Kartik tie to his swearing in
</a>
. “We’ve got the swaggy brown boys on lock,” Kumra joked. But the Delhi-based designer is rapidly expanding his fanbase. This season, he responded to the steep “Liberation Day” tariffs imposed on India by leaning into the know-how of his network of Indian artisans, whose sumptuous embroidery and embellishment danced across silk tops, slubby blazers, and even a couple of pairs of re-worked Carhartt carpenter pants. Think of it as menswear’s finest casual couture.
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
<strong>
Junya Watanabe
</strong>
</span>
</p>
</div>
</div>
</td>
</tr>
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<a target="_blank">
<img alt="Junya Watanabe 2026" height="auto" src="https://inboxflows.com/_/image/https%253A%252F%252Fmedia.sailthru.com%252Ffss%252Ffbht11%252Fdfd68ef7-cf67-4035-ae57-4447abc55392%252FGettyImages-2257265008_2.jpeg/?inbox_flows_img_sig=eyJwYXRoIjoiaHR0cHMlM0ElMkYlMkZtZWRpYS5zYWlsdCIsInRpbWUiOjE3Njk1MzM5NjguNjk2NzQxfQ:1vkmcS:qCXDB06I-fgWQbZriLFovbMBK_g3EWx5lsmRfgxpraA" style="display:block;height:auto;border:0;width:100%" title="Junya Watanabe 2026" width="526.4"/>
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<p style="margin:0;mso-line-height-alt:16.8px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 13px;">
<em>
WWD // Getty Images
</em>
</span>
</p>
</div>
</div>
</td>
</tr>
</table>
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<div style="font-family:sans-serif">
<div class="" style="font-size:12px;font-family:Helvetica Neue,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;mso-line-height-alt:18px;color:#000;line-height:1.5">
<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
For anyone who has a hard time making it to the 10 a.m. Junya show every season: get your life together! Those who overslept the latest edition missed a wonderfully inventive tour of American style. Guided by Watanabe’s trademark patchwork construction and hybridized tailoring, the show wound from the Jazz Age through the decades, conjuring the workaday styles of the Depression era, the rise of Ivy Style, and finally midcentury modernity and postwar prosperity. Somewhere in there, I spotted a pair of khaki critter pants
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
embroidered with Stüssy motifs—
</a>
the best surprise collaboration I saw all week.
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
<strong>
Amiri
</strong>
</span>
</p>
</div>
</div>
</td>
</tr>
</table>
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<div align="center" class="alignment">
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<a target="_blank">
<img alt="Amiri 2026" height="auto" src="https://inboxflows.com/_/image/https%253A%252F%252Fmedia.sailthru.com%252Ffss%252Ffbht11%252F9c1b7961-3a08-48cb-9418-313c309b3b65%252FGettyImages-2257674167_1.jpg/?inbox_flows_img_sig=eyJwYXRoIjoiaHR0cHMlM0ElMkYlMkZtZWRpYS5zYWlsdCIsInRpbWUiOjE3Njk1MzM5NjguNjk2ODk0NH0:1vkmcS:QOjAQOctd1g973h7R6adTMda_lBts6E13zygTF-auoY" style="display:block;height:auto;border:0;width:100%" title="Amiri 2026" width="526.4"/>
</a>
</div>
</div>
</td>
</tr>
</table>
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<p style="margin:0;mso-line-height-alt:16.8px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 13px;">
<em>
Stephane Cardinale - Corbis // Getty Images
</em>
</span>
</p>
</div>
</div>
</td>
</tr>
</table>
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="text_block block-21" role="presentation" style="mso-table-lspace:0;mso-table-rspace:0;word-break:break-word" width="100%">
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<td class="pad" style="padding-bottom:10px;padding-left:25px;padding-right:25px;padding-top:10px">
<div style="font-family:sans-serif">
<div class="" style="font-size:12px;font-family:Helvetica Neue,Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;mso-line-height-alt:18px;color:#000;line-height:1.5">
<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
Mike Amiri
</a>
has officially stuck the landing in his label’s evolution into a spit-shined West Coast tailoring powerhouse. The guy who started with big sneakers and ripped denim is now one of the most convincing purveyors of menswear fantasy to the famous and flashy (or those who aspire to be). The collection of Laurel Canyon-inflected suiting and stagewear had precision and detail, a giveaway that Amiri has spent the past year flying back and forth between LA and Milan, where he works on his extensive assortment of swaggerific tailoring. “I spend so much time on the intricacies of the product now, making sure that as you get closer and closer you're like,
<em>
holy shit
</em>
,” he said.
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
<strong>
Magliano
</strong>
</span>
</p>
</div>
</div>
</td>
</tr>
</table>
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<a target="_blank">
<img alt="Magliano 2026" height="auto" src="https://inboxflows.com/_/image/https%253A%252F%252Fmedia.sailthru.com%252Ffss%252Ffbht11%252Ff52a2f85-2aeb-4af3-b77d-34d80adee2f5%252FGettyImages-2257473449_2.jpeg/?inbox_flows_img_sig=eyJwYXRoIjoiaHR0cHMlM0ElMkYlMkZtZWRpYS5zYWlsdCIsInRpbWUiOjE3Njk1MzM5NjguNjk3MDQ3NX0:1vkmcS:K9reNm6QR0mmTP_8sQ5N38osQFcmUzc5JFGonozvs24" style="display:block;height:auto;border:0;width:100%" title="Magliano 2026" width="526.4"/>
</a>
</div>
</div>
</td>
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<p style="margin:0;mso-line-height-alt:16.8px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 13px;">
<em>
WWD // Getty Images
</em>
</span>
</p>
</div>
</div>
</td>
</tr>
</table>
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<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
Welcome to Paris,
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
Luca Magliano
</a>
. The Bolognese designer decamped from Milan this season, but he brought his cast of misfit models and their poetic Italian wardrobe with him. Set to a live whistling performance, the show was extremely tight, with only 31 looks. By the end, I wasn’t craving more looks so much as I wanted them to run the show back all over again. Nobody makes classic clothing look so real, so lived in and romantic. “We don’t deny tradition,” Magliano said backstage. “We just misuse it, I would say.”
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
<strong>
Willy Chavarria
</strong>
</span>
</p>
</div>
</div>
</td>
</tr>
</table>
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<a target="_blank">
<img alt="Willy Chavarria 2026" height="auto" src="https://inboxflows.com/_/image/https%253A%252F%252Fmedia.sailthru.com%252Ffss%252Ffbht11%252Fa9954ebb-db23-4851-9fb2-c593721d63dd%252FGettyImages-2257837357_2.jpeg/?inbox_flows_img_sig=eyJwYXRoIjoiaHR0cHMlM0ElMkYlMkZtZWRpYS5zYWlsdCIsInRpbWUiOjE3Njk1MzM5NjguNjk3MjE2N30:1vkmcS:I1j0lYg6y_4LEtoc5BSUzuPkLWO7g53dvZiTOrUjvUs" style="display:block;height:auto;border:0;width:100%" title="Willy Chavarria 2026" width="526.4"/>
</a>
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</div>
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<p style="margin:0;mso-line-height-alt:16.8px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 13px;">
<em>
Victor Virgile // Getty Images
</em>
</span>
</p>
</div>
</div>
</td>
</tr>
</table>
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="text_block block-27" role="presentation" style="mso-table-lspace:0;mso-table-rspace:0;word-break:break-word" width="100%">
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<div style="font-family:sans-serif">
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<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
Surprisingly, the American designer with this season’s biggest Paris Fashion Week show was not Pharrell Williams. In fact,
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
Willy Chavarria
</a>
pulled together an LVMH-scale production that included over 100 models, 2,000 guests, and a cinematic runway performance in three acts that included five musical performances and was simultaneously being broadcast as a single-take fashion film. Phew. Was it a bit hard to see Chavarria’s Latin-American tailoring and sportswear from across the stadium venue where the whole thing went down? Sure. But I’m willing to make that compromise to see a great new fashion showman flex his ambitions. And so far, there is no denying that Chavarria has a high batting average when he swings for the fences. “I'm sure people are going to say it's over-the-top showmanship,” Chavarria told me. “But I don't really care.”
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
<strong>
Honorary Mention: Celine
</strong>
</span>
</p>
</div>
</div>
</td>
</tr>
</table>
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<div align="center" class="alignment">
<div class="fullWidth" style="max-width:526.4px">
<a target="_blank">
<img alt="Images from the Celine fall 2026 lookbook" height="auto" src="https://inboxflows.com/_/image/https%253A%252F%252Fmedia.sailthru.com%252Ffss%252Ffbht11%252F440bc3d0-b2c1-4fab-acac-0c05689f6d19%252FScreenshot%252B2026-01-27%252Bat%252B11.10.43%25E2%2580%25AFAM.png/?inbox_flows_img_sig=eyJwYXRoIjoiaHR0cHMlM0ElMkYlMkZtZWRpYS5zYWlsdCIsInRpbWUiOjE3Njk1MzM5NjguNjk3Nzc4Mn0:1vkmcS:dRYGc-VmBU734flJ1uva0TvKYN46c1rFSiI5Mk_mgYY" style="display:block;height:auto;border:0;width:100%" title="Images from the Celine fall 2026 lookbook" width="526.4"/>
</a>
</div>
</div>
</td>
</tr>
</table>
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<a target="_blank">
<img alt="Images from the Celine fall 2026 lookbook" height="auto" src="https://inboxflows.com/_/image/https%253A%252F%252Fmedia.sailthru.com%252Ffss%252Ffbht11%252Fd3df9f34-184e-4361-bc00-97449d675f9a%252FScreenshot%252B2026-01-27%252Bat%252B11.11.15%25E2%2580%25AFAM.png/?inbox_flows_img_sig=eyJwYXRoIjoiaHR0cHMlM0ElMkYlMkZtZWRpYS5zYWlsdCIsInRpbWUiOjE3Njk1MzM5NjguNjk3OTk5fQ:1vkmcS:UUeeM8bcR7USc5wh_P-d0wgTY8vVnKkz84AwdBa0X_0" style="display:block;height:auto;border:0;width:100%" title="Images from the Celine fall 2026 lookbook" width="526.4"/>
</a>
</div>
</div>
</td>
</tr>
</table>
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Images from the Celine fall 2026 lookbook
</span>
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Michael Rider didn’t hold a proper Celine show this season, opting instead to rig up a couple dozen looks around the brand’s rue Vivienne HQ—and it was still the talk of the town. Rider clearly has got this brand figured out. The looks were real but aspirational, everyday but dressy, with the American nonchalance he honed at Ralph Lauren polished with a hefty dose of French savoir-faire. It’s very hard to make classic, wearable clothes look so cool. I could go on and on, but you should just
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
see for yourself
</a>
. Hey Celine: next season, do a show!
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