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   The Golden Rule of Watch Collecting Is Total Bullsh*t
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   When you first get into watches, you may encounter some terrible advice.
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                     <em>
                      Hi, my Boxers, some good news: I just had my second child, a baby boy named Rafa. Welcome, beautiful. The even-better news is that while I’m occupied changing diapers, I’ve enlisted a few members of the Watch Illuminati board to steward us through
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                     Hot Take
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                     </em>
                     Month
                     <em>
                      here on Box + Papers.
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                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     <em>
                      First up is Tony Traina, an OG of the watch newsletter game, former Hodinkee editor, and one of my favorite writers in the business (
                     </em>
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      <em>
                       he’s contributed to
                      </em>
                      GQ
                      <em>
                       several times already
                      </em>
                     </a>
                     <em>
                      ). After you’re done reading this, be sure to subscribe to
                     </em>
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      <em>
                       Tony’s newsletter
                      </em>
                      Unpolished
                     </a>
                     .
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                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     The most popular advice in watch collecting is also the most useless. If this were a cable news segment, I'd insert a supercut here—it might even include Cam, or me, or other prominent watch world figures parroting it: "Buy what you love."
                    </span>
                   </p>
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                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     That phrase, for all its ubiquity, is meaningless, beyond the point of platitude. Who could argue with it?
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     I’m not saying you can’t love watches. The unexplainable emotional connection I feel towards at least a few of my favorite pieces—say my Rolex Explorer 1016 or Swatch Kailua—must border on the romantic. But the advice to “buy what you love” gets the sequence backwards. It suggests love should be the starting point for a decision, when in fact it’s the result of a good one. The “love” (or whatever we’re diagnosing me with) I feel towards some watches comes from understanding, living with, and appreciating.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     But where did this meaningless mantra even come from? It probably started as a useful reminder that watches aren't investments—these little objects have an emotional pull and shouldn’t be thought of as financial instruments. As watches exploded in popularity and people started treating them like wrist-based NFTs, "buy what you love" became pushback against pure speculation. But somewhere along the way, the reminder got repeated so often it lost all meaning.
                    </span>
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                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     “Buy what you love” short-circuits the long, winding journey of the collector. It cuts off any inquiry into what we want and why we want it. Watch desire is a tangle of status, identity, nostalgia, history, mechanics, and aesthetics. Understanding this confounding web and how it congeals into something called “desire” is actually the fun of collecting.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     It also sets us up for making bad decisions based purely on passion and emotion. I’m not against passion—I’m against
                     <em>
                      blind
                     </em>
                     passion and infatuation. Taking a tick to recognize why something excites you as a collector can actually enhance that passion, not kill it.
                    </span>
                   </p>
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                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <strong>
                     <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
                      The Mantra’s Many Myths
                     </span>
                    </strong>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     Regurgitating this advice makes it feel like acknowledging the complex motivations behind collecting somehow makes you less authentic. It's the collecting equivalent of "just follow your passion" career advice. It sounds profound, but means nothing.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     <strong>
                      It ignores reality
                     </strong>
                     . “Love” can suggest that what we want is some incontrovertible edict handed down from the heart. But the watches we want are constantly shaped by external forces. The market, personal identity, what gets respect from collectors, whatever’s in our feeds, what Walton Goggins
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      wore
                     </a>
                     on the red carpet that one time.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     <strong>
                      What you love changes
                     </strong>
                     . The Royal Oak that felt essential at 25 might feel irrelevant at 45. Your lifestyle evolves, taste matures, and circumstances shift. The advice doesn’t offer a framework for dealing with these changes, leaving collectors unprepared when their supposed love fades.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     <strong>
                      It conflates fleeting attraction with lasting satisfaction
                     </strong>
                     . “Love at first sight” with a watch in a display case (or worse, while scrolling) is entirely different from living with it every day. The advice doesn't distinguish between the dopamine hit of desire and actual long-term compatibility. How many collectors have "loved" a watch in the boutique only to find it gathering dust in a drawer six months later?
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     <strong>
                      It’s reckless
                     </strong>
                     . Love is irrational by definition. Yeah, I might love
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      that Patek Philippe 1518 in steel
                     </a>
                     , but it’d also be wildly irresponsible (for me) to spend $20 million pursuing that love. Building a collection purely on emotion is a recipe for disaster: bad decisions driven by emotional impulses.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     <strong>
                      This advice shuts down analysis and self-reflection.
                     </strong>
                     If you “love” a watch, there’s no need to understand the movement, the history, the market. But examining how all of these forces come together to form our taste—and the watches we want—is vital to becoming a thoughtful collector.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     Watches are this beautiful combination of history, engineering, status, craft, mechanics, and human ingenuity (to name a few). I think a lot about the platforms we use, and which I even like, and how they often push us to love the same few watches, like the
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      Patek Philippe Nautilus
                     </a>
                     or Cartier Crash. Sometimes, “love” feels like code for something we’ve simply seen over and over again, or perhaps something we’ve been
                     <em>
                      told
                     </em>
                     to love over and over again. I’m after advice that demands us to be more inquisitive, more curious, more patient. So often, it seems to stop at: Sees watch, “loves” watch, buys watch.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
                     <strong>
                      Better Advice
                     </strong>
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     Instead of “buy what you love,” try: “Buy what you understand.” Sure, I mean this literally: If you’re buying an early vintage Rolex Daytona, you’d better understand if it has the correct
                     <em>
                      millerighe
                     </em>
                     pushers. But it’s also deeper than that. Understand the motivations behind what you want.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     The most satisfying acquisitions come from this kind of honest self-assessment, not from chasing some mythical, emotional connection to a hunk of metal. Some collectors want the engineering, some want the story, and others the social signaling. Most want some combination. That's not shallow, it's honest.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     The collections I admire most have an individual coherence: you can look at someone's watch box and instantly recognize it as
                     <em>
                      theirs
                     </em>
                     . That coherence doesn't come from buying what you love in the moment. It comes from understanding what you actually want, why you want it, and how it fits together. And here's the kicker: once you build a collection this way, you might find yourself actually loving it—not just the individual pieces, but the story they tell together.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <a rel="noopener" style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;" target="_blank">
                     <em>
                      <u>
                       <strong>
                        <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                         Read and share this post on the web.
                        </span>
                       </strong>
                      </u>
                     </em>
                    </a>
                   </p>
                  </div>
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                      Timothée Chalamet Wore a Niche $131,000 Watch to the Marty Supreme Premiere
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                     The actor traded in his typical dainty Cartier for a hulking Urban Jürgensen.
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