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                     Plus, Pieter Mulier Is Versace’s New Chief Creative Officer
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                     By Nicole Phelps
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                     By Nicole Phelps
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                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 16px;">
                     Pieter Mulier’s appointment as Versace’s chief creative officer was made official yesterday, though his name has been at the top of most prognosticators’ lists since the mid-December exit of his predecessor. “When we considered the Versace acquisition, we identified Pieter as the right person for the brand,” Lorenzo Bertelli, himself newly appointed to his role as Versace chairman, said in a statement. “We believe that Pieter can truly unlock Versace’s full potential and that he will be able to engage in a fruitful dialogue with the brand’s strong legacy. We are excited to begin this journey together.”
                     <br/>
                     <br/>
                     If his longtime connection to Raf Simons, co-creative director of Prada, opened the door for Mulier at Versace (the Prada Group now owns Versace), his phenomenal success at Alaïa sealed the deal. Zendaya in burgundy knit two-piece on the Dune press tour… Mesh ballet flats on everybody’s feet… An It bag in the form of Le Teckel that has spawned copies up and down the market.
                     <br/>
                     <br/>
                     Recreating that kind of brand magic isn’t a sure thing, as we’ve seen with other star designers, but Alaia to Versace isn’t a stretch aesthetically, which will work to Mulier’s advantage. Both are rooted in sensuality. Both were forged in the go-go ’80s. Presumably Mulier will start there, as Dario Vitale did with his own brief tenure at the label.
                     <br/>
                     <br/>
                     I
                     <a style="color: #000000; text-decoration:underline;">
                      interviewed
                     </a>
                     Mulier in 2024 when he brought his Alaia collection to New York City for a show at the Guggenheim Museum. He told me, “I often think, would Azzedine like it or wouldn’t he like it? Or, even better, would he do it now? It’s a good question to ask oneself if you come after somebody… To be contemporary with a brand you have to base yourself on emotion, and that’s mostly what I try to do. Is this relevant to start from now?” We’ll understand more about his thinking later this year. His Versace start date is July 1.
                     <br/>
                     <br/>
                     Meanwhile, New York Fashion Week starts on Monday with an off-calendar show from Marc Jacobs. The big story of the week is Rachel Scott, American fashion’s busiest woman with anticipated shows at Proenza Schouler and her own Diotima.
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