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                     Plus,
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                      Memento Vivere
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                     —Remembering the Macabre, Yet Magnificent Jewelry of Attilio Codognato
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                     By Nicole Phelps
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                     By Nicole Phelps
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                     Surprise! Demna and Gucci interrupted the regularly scheduled programming of London Fashion Week early this morning, dropping the label’s spring 2026 collection on social media and via email blast. Photographed by Catherine Opie, the lookbook captures the Gucci “Famiglia,” a family, the press release noted, “made up of singular personalities and distinctive aesthetic attitudes.” Back in March,” Luke Leitch writes, “at the press conference announcing Demna’s surprise appointment, the house’s now-CEO Francesca Bellettini said: “Gucci has two souls: it has the heritage and it needs to have the fashionability… However it is not enough to inject creativity if the product does not stand for the positioning of Gucci.” This collection certainly looks unmistakably Gucci, and its Opie-shuttered lens has been finely calibrated to Demna’s disruptive and irreverent settings. We can only wait to see how that collision of subject and object develops—and the first indication will come when this collection goes on sale at 10 Gucci stores around the world later this week.”
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