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Why I’m Loving Big Watches Again
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Enough with the polite shrunken timepieces already. GQ watch editor Cam Wolf is ready for oversized wristwear to return to the fore.
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<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
In the early 1980s, when Casio was working on the very first G-Shock, one of the main requirements was that it had to be able to survive a three-story drop. Kikuo Ibe, the project’s developer, would bring every new prototype to the office bathroom and launch it out of a window. That might be a regular Tuesday for Tom Cruise, but Ibe kept up his experiment for a frustratingly long time without any survivors. One day, finally, he cracked the code when he saw some children playing with a rubber ball and realized that a watch floating inside would be insulated from drops and shocks. Ibe’s eventual working prototype—which he fashioned using an actual rubber ball—is the inspiration behind one of G-Shock’s most striking and humongous releases of 2025: the GA-V01 “Cool Eyes.”
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<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
Over the past couple of months, I’ve been wearing the new GA-V01 far more than I anticipated. Finally, there is a watch that transcends Ibe’s initial brief. Drop this new release from a third-story window, and it’s not the watch that should be afraid but the ground. The watch’s design is freaky, sure, but it’s the massive proportions that gave me the most pause. The watch measures in at 49 mm x 58 mm, completely out of step with today’s smaller tastes. The majority of trendy watches these days are at least 10 mm smaller, and many brands have experimented with even teenier designs, like the mini versions of the Cartier Tank and Audemars Piguet Royal Oak that are beloved by celebs like Timothée Chalamet and Rihanna. I love those watches, too, but wearing the Cool Eyes this summer unlocked something primordial in me: a love for BIG-ASS WATCHES.
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<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
The BAW is not your garden-variety Rolex Submariner (41 mm) or even the slightly larger Yacht-Master (42 mm). I’m talking about the true behemoths of the watch world: the IWC BIG Pilot, the Breitling Navitimer, and one of Panerai’s classically beefy Luminors. If Arnold Schwarzenegger wouldn’t have worn it to gun down his enemies in the ‘90s, it doesn’t qualify as a BAW.
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<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
The splendor of wearing a BAW is that it feels so rude to do so. A few weeks ago, I wrote
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
about my most complimented watch
</a>
. Most observers of my G-Shock Cool Eyes, by contrast seem to ask me a question with their eyes:
<em>
What the hell is that?
</em>
This is a watch that attracts attention—even if it’s not always for the right reasons.
</span>
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<em>
Arnie wearing his Panerai Pre‐Vendôme Luminor Marina for 1996's Eraser
</em>
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For most of my watch-collecting life, I’ve gravitated towards polite watches. My elegant Cartier Tank barely takes up the space of an Andes mint on my wrist. The rest of my watch repertoire—which includes some Seikos, a couple of dive watches from Doxa and Tudor, and a stone-dial dress piece—rarely, if ever, crosses over the 40-mm threshold. That puts me right in line with the average watch consumer’s tastes in 2025. It hasn’t always been this way, of course: In the ’90s and early 2000s, massive watches were the dominant stock and trade of most brands. To keep up with these demands, makers released bigger models like the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean and Rolex Deepsea. But over the past decade, collectors have been swimming in the opposite direction.
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What I love about the BAW is the way it pushes back against the immense pressure on brands to downsize their watches. In March, Breitling, one of the lone remaining holdouts to the shrinkage trend, announced
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
a much slimmer version of its Top Time watch with a campaign starring small-watch evangelist Austin Butler
</a>
. At Watches and Wonders this year, meanwhile, it felt like every brand’s presentation included some sort of offering to the Small Watch Gods. It started to feel like things were going too far in one direction—
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
an A. Lange & Sohne 1815
</a>
, for instance, felt preposterously small on my wrist at 34 mm. In fact, one of the standouts of the show for me was one of the few watches to buck against that trend:
<a rel="noopener" style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;" target="_blank">
Tudor’s new Pelagos Ultra, which came in at a very unfashionable 43 mm. I loved it.
</a>
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
Still, consumers are continuing to reject the BAW.
<a rel="noopener" style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;" target="_blank">
Chrono24
</a>
shared data with me that shows that larger watches remain in a slow but steady death spiral. Among 40- to 49-year-olds, the volume share of watches 43 mm and bigger has dropped incrementally from 16.6% in 2018 to 12.4% so far this year. That same statistic among 30- to 39-year-olds depicts an even scarier image. Larger watches made up 14.6% of that age group’s purchases in 2018; since then, that number has endured an even more perilous drop than that
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
cop on the slide in Boston
</a>
, falling all the way to 7.8% in 2025. Most damning of all, the under-30 crowd has never really considered these pieces at all: In 2018, bigger watches represented 8.8% of their timepiece purchases; that’s slipped to 5.6% this year.
</span>
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<em>
The 45-mm Timex Intrepid Reissue
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<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
So maybe it’s just my trend-cycle-addled brain that’s causing my new appreciation for the BAW—but it does truly feel like there’s something in the air. Last month,
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
Dimepiece founder Brynn Wallner
</a>
and
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
Foundwell’s Alan Bedwell
</a>
teamed up with
<a rel="noopener" style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;" target="_blank">
Timex to reissue the brand’s Intrepid model, once a JFK Jr. favorite
</a>
, in its original beastly 46-mm proportions. The watch sold out immediately. The release was especially interesting coming from someone like Wallner, who has been a vocal advocate for smaller watches but is also more tapped into fashion trends than the average watch collector. “All of the love that teeny tiny watches have gotten in the past couple of years is near and very dear to my heart,” Wallner says. “And yet it excites me to see a possible resurgence of BIG-ASS WATCHES. You have to laugh at how predictable trends are. We are all just riding the big wave of life.”
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
That, as Wallner acknowledges, is simply how trends work: the moment something reaches mass popularity (say,
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
baggy jeans
</a>
), a yearning for its exact opposite (
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
<em>
skinny
</em>
jeans
</a>
) begins simmering again elsewhere. And the BAW trend indeed appears to be stirring. There are a few notable examples, like the Intrepid, Tudor's Pelagos Ultra,
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
or Patek Philippe's blocky Cubitus.
</a>
On the
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
secondary watch market Bezel
</a>
, this has manifested itself as interest, if not consumption. While purchases of larger watches have remained flat over the last two years at 14%, users are using the platform’s “Want” feature to signal their interest in such models. Wants for 43 mm-plus pieces have gone up from 6% to 11% in that time period—not exactly numbers to write home about, but potentially the early squigglings on a seismograph.
</span>
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<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
What’s cool—or at least interesting—is that watches are now part of the unrelenting churn. Pinterest’s latest trend report calls out vintage watches—a comically large category—as one of the platform’s biggest risers. “Gen Z men elevate every fit with vintage watches and classic timepieces,”
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
the press release reads
</a>
. Now that watches are fully subsumed into mainstream culture, they are also subject to its whims.
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
Even beyond the need to get in on the ground floor of a nascent trend, wearing a BAW is a thrill. I’m not saying we should all dump our perfectly proportioned 36-mm watches, but there’s no harm in being open to adding a mammoth option to the rotation. There’s just something about a BAW that activates something deep inside us. “A big watch on a pair of big arms will always excite me, no matter what's trending,” Wallner says. It’s that same primitive part of my brain that keeps me coming back to my G-Shock: Me like watch big.
</span>
</p>
</div>
</div>
</td>
</tr>
</table>
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<td class="divider_inner" style="font-size:1px;line-height:1px;border-top:1px solid #bbb">
<span style="word-break: break-word;">
</span>
</td>
</tr>
</table>
</div>
</td>
</tr>
</table>
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="text_block block-14" role="presentation" style="mso-table-lspace:0;mso-table-rspace:0;word-break:break-word" width="100%">
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<td class="pad" style="padding-bottom:25px;padding-left:15px;padding-right:15px;padding-top:25px">
<div style="font-family:Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif">
<div class="" style="font-size:12px;font-family:Georgia,Times,'Times New Roman',serif;mso-line-height-alt:18px;color:#000;line-height:1.5">
<p style="margin:0;font-size:12px;text-align:center;mso-line-height-alt:30px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 20px;">
The Ticker
</span>
</p>
</div>
</div>
</td>
</tr>
</table>
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="image_block block-15" role="presentation" style="mso-table-lspace:0;mso-table-rspace:0" width="100%">
<tr>
<td class="pad" style="width:100%">
<div align="center" class="alignment">
<div style="max-width:510px">
<img alt="A Cartier Crash rug" height="auto" src="https://inboxflows.com/_/image/https%253A%252F%252Fmedia.sailthru.com%252Fcomposer%252Fimages%252Fbazh%252Fqlld270o%252Fsjg%252Fsxc%252Fagl%252Fil_1588xN.6140654137_fkyk.jpg/?inbox_flows_img_sig=eyJwYXRoIjoiaHR0cHMlM0ElMkYlMkZtZWRpYS5zYWlsdCIsInRpbWUiOjE3NTU4NjQxMjEuMjUxMzk5NX0:1upQT3:mmNt_mVbWXiciyw7zTetDRQa__JMmXi6CzlttVlC_EQ" style="display:block;height:auto;border:0;width:100%" title="A Cartier Crash rug" width="510"/>
</div>
</div>
</td>
</tr>
</table>
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="text_block block-16" role="presentation" style="mso-table-lspace:0;mso-table-rspace:0;word-break:break-word" width="100%">
<tr>
<td class="pad" style="padding-bottom:25px;padding-left:15px;padding-right:15px;padding-top:25px">
<div style="font-family:Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif">
<div class="" style="font-size:12px;font-family:Georgia,Times,'Times New Roman',serif;mso-line-height-alt:18px;color:#000;line-height:1.5">
<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
😴 I came across this old
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
Swatch x Spike Lee collaboration that absolutely rocks
</a>
. Another BAW worth rocking, the watch has a massive bezel that reads “Wake Up!” The phrase is fitting for a timepiece in general, but
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
also refers to a recurring line in Lee’s movies
</a>
.
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
⭐️ A few weeks ago,
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
Tony Traina at
<em>
Unpolished
</em>
</a>
introduced a new universal scoring system for watches that I am extremely jealous of. His first review
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
evaluates two versions of Tudor’s Black Bay
</a>
. I’m excited to see this database grow.
</span>
</p>
</div>
</div>
</td>
</tr>
</table>
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="image_block block-17" role="presentation" style="mso-table-lspace:0;mso-table-rspace:0" width="100%">
<tr>
<td class="pad" style="width:100%">
<div align="center" class="alignment">
<div style="max-width:510px">
<img alt="A Cartier Crash rug" height="auto" src="https://inboxflows.com/_/image/https%253A%252F%252Fmedia.sailthru.com%252Fcomposer%252Fimages%252Fbazh%252Fqlld270o%252F4cc%252Fj7i%252F5q4%252FBJB_0032.jpg/?inbox_flows_img_sig=eyJwYXRoIjoiaHR0cHMlM0ElMkYlMkZtZWRpYS5zYWlsdCIsInRpbWUiOjE3NTU4NjQxMjEuMjUxNTAwNn0:1upQT3:d9ix9MfAxS3kwVTBxPBU0eeTTch_rVFFY-Em5DlGNqk" style="display:block;height:auto;border:0;width:100%" title="A Cartier Crash rug" width="510"/>
</div>
</div>
</td>
</tr>
</table>
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="text_block block-18" role="presentation" style="mso-table-lspace:0;mso-table-rspace:0;word-break:break-word" width="100%">
<tr>
<td class="pad" style="padding-bottom:25px;padding-left:15px;padding-right:15px;padding-top:25px">
<div style="font-family:Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif">
<div class="" style="font-size:12px;font-family:Georgia,Times,'Times New Roman',serif;mso-line-height-alt:18px;color:#000;line-height:1.5">
<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
🏖️ The new standalone Rolex boutique from London Jewelers in the Hamptons is so dreamy. The environment looks so posh that I half expect a sweater draped around the shoulders to be part of the dress code. I need Nancy Meyers to make a movie set there.
</span>
</p>
</div>
</div>
</td>
</tr>
</table>
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="image_block block-19" role="presentation" style="mso-table-lspace:0;mso-table-rspace:0" width="100%">
<tr>
<td class="pad" style="width:100%">
<div align="center" class="alignment">
<div style="max-width:510px">
<img alt="A Cartier Crash rug" height="auto" src="https://inboxflows.com/_/image/https%253A%252F%252Fmedia.sailthru.com%252Fcomposer%252Fimages%252Fbazh%252Fqlld270o%252Fooj%252Fy7e%252Frkt%252FGettyImages-1203003979.jpg/?inbox_flows_img_sig=eyJwYXRoIjoiaHR0cHMlM0ElMkYlMkZtZWRpYS5zYWlsdCIsInRpbWUiOjE3NTU4NjQxMjEuMjUxNjAzNn0:1upQT3:riQwfotUdd8GVbDhIIpfHxWrkQD5YTs3uZV3ITNKzNk" style="display:block;height:auto;border:0;width:100%" title="A Cartier Crash rug" width="510"/>
</div>
</div>
</td>
</tr>
</table>
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="text_block block-20" role="presentation" style="mso-table-lspace:0;mso-table-rspace:0;word-break:break-word" width="100%">
<tr>
<td class="pad" style="padding-bottom:25px;padding-left:15px;padding-right:15px;padding-top:25px">
<div style="font-family:Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif">
<div class="" style="font-size:12px;font-family:Georgia,Times,'Times New Roman',serif;mso-line-height-alt:18px;color:#000;line-height:1.5">
<p style="margin:0;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
🦾 I watched
<em>
Minority Report
</em>
this week and loved the precrime unit’s watches that count down to when a murder will occur. The digitized screen features a glowing Bulgari logo at the bottom, but that, too, is the stuff of science fiction. An
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
old-ish investigation from
<em>
Hodinkee
</em>
found
</a>
a scene where the watch’s digital effect was missing, and its true form was revealed: The movie actually used an Omega X-33 as the base. (45 mm—that’s a Big-Ass Watch!) Someone on Reddit
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
reprogrammed their smart watch
</a>
to resemble the
<em>
Minority Report
</em>
interface. So cool!
</span>
</p>
</div>
</div>
</td>
</tr>
</table>
</td>
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</tbody>
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</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
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<td>
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<tbody>
<tr>
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</td>
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</table>
</td>
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<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="row-content stack" role="presentation" style="mso-table-lspace:0;mso-table-rspace:0;background-color:#fcfaf7;color:#000;width:510px;margin:0 auto" width="510">
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<td class="pad" style="padding-bottom:5px;padding-left:10px;padding-right:10px;padding-top:10px">
<div style="font-family:Arial,sans-serif">
<div class="" style="font-family:'Helvetica Neue',Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:12px;mso-line-height-alt:18px;color:#000;line-height:1.5">
<p style="margin:0;font-size:14px;text-align:left;mso-line-height-alt:24px;letter-spacing:normal">
<span style="word-break: break-word; color: #737373; font-size: 16px;">
<a rel="noopener" style="text-decoration: none; color: #000000;" target="_blank">
Are Watches Actually Getting Smaller?
</a>
</span>
</p>
</div>
</div>
</td>
</tr>
</table>
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<td class="pad" style="padding-bottom:5px;padding-left:10px;padding-right:10px;padding-top:5px">
<div style="font-family:Arial,sans-serif">
<div class="" style="font-family:'Helvetica Neue',Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:12px;mso-line-height-alt:18px;color:#000;line-height:1.5">
<p style="margin:0;font-size:14px;text-align:left;mso-line-height-alt:21px;letter-spacing:normal">
<span style="word-break: break-word; color: #737373; font-size: 14px;">
We compiled data from 230 major timepiece releases over the past five years to find out.
</span>
</p>
</div>
</div>
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</table>
</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
</table>
</td>
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<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="row-content" role="presentation" style="mso-table-lspace:0;mso-table-rspace:0;background-color:#fcfaf7;border-radius:0;color:#000;width:510px;margin:0 auto" width="510">
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How Tiny Watches Became the Biggest Trend of 2023
</a>
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2 months, 3 weeks ago - email@newsletter.gq.com
Why I’m Loving Big Watches Again
Enough with the polite shrunken timepieces already. GQ watch editor Cam Wolf is ready for oversiz...