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11 Major Takeaways From Watches and Wonders 2026
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Fresh off his flight from Geneva, GQ watch editor Cam Wolf weighs in on the hottest trends in timepieces, explains why great watches seem less accessible than ever, and recounts his one-on-one hang with Rexhep Rexhepi and his stunning new release.
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Watches & Wonders:
</span>
</strong>
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Day 1
</span>
</strong>
</p>
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<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
Bonjour mon amis,
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
My
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
Watches and Wonders
</a>
journey is over. Just like after a big meal, there’s a lot of digesting to be done. I might not even look at a watch tomorrow (just kidding). Take a walk with me. Here are 11 free and fresh takes on the state of the industry.
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
<strong>
No complications are the new complications
</strong>
. One of the biggest and most interesting trends I noticed at Watches and Wonders was how many brands put serious time and resources into making the simplest possible watches:
</span>
</p>
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<ul style="line-height:1.5;mso-line-height-alt:18px;font-size:18px">
<li aria-level="1">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
Vacheron Constantin spent several years developing an ultra-thin movement to use inside its new ultra-thin Overseas, a supremely wearable watch with no function beyond telling the time.
</span>
</li>
<li aria-level="1">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
Patek Philippe ditched the date window
<em>
and
</em>
the seconds hand to
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
create the cleanest possible dial for its new Nautilus
</a>
.
</span>
</li>
<li aria-level="1">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
Actually, brands are throwing out hands like they belong to
<em>
Happy Gilmore
</em>
’s Chubbs: Breguet put out its
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
one-handed Classique Souscription last April
</a>
, while
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
Omega ditched the seconds hand on the Constellation Observatory
</a>
watches released late last month.
</span>
</li>
<li aria-level="1">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
The new
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
Universal Geneve Polerouters
</a>
, which start at roughly $18,000, pour everything into making a time-only watch worth that price, including a micro-rotor and nicely finished movement.
</span>
</li>
<li aria-level="1">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
It’s not
<em>
simple,
</em>
per se, but Ulysse Nardin proudly trotted out the “most complicated time-only” watch with the Super Freak. Over $300,000 to tell you the time and nothing else—in the coolest way possible.
</span>
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
</a>
</li>
</ul>
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<p style="margin:0;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
<strong>
The five most talked-about new releases at the show
</strong>
</span>
</p>
<ul style="line-height:1.5;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<li>
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
The
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
Chopard L.U.C 1860 with a blue dial was the top choice coming out of this fair
</a>
. It’s a beautiful watch with that finely made wave pattern on the dial known as guilloche.
</span>
</li>
<li>
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
Bulgari’s new 37mm Octo Finissimo is finally the right size. Collectors have long been asking for a smaller version of this watch and the Italian house delivered this year.
</span>
</li>
<li>
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
Vacheron Constantin had two winners with its ultra-thin Overseas Self-Winding and the Overseas Dual Time Cardinal Points in four colors. (I see a lot of heat around brown, but I prefer the green.)
</span>
</li>
<li>
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
The A. Lange & Söhne Saxonia Annual Calendar is collector catnip, especially for the legions of Lange Boys at the show. The watch offers an annual calendar at just 36mm, largely considered the perfect size among us nerds.
</span>
</li>
<li>
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control, the brand’s new integrated sport watch with a perpetual calendar, was a hit thanks to its big functionality and small size.
</span>
<br/>
<br/>
</li>
</ul>
</div>
</div>
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<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
<strong>
<em>
My
</em>
</strong>
<strong>
five favorites from Watches and Wonders
</strong>
</span>
</p>
<ul style="line-height:1.5;mso-line-height-alt:27px;font-size:18px">
<li>
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
Every year Parmigiani Fleurier sneaks into my personal ranking. The brand’s muted pastel color palette is exactly my speed. This year, the Chronograph Mystérieux chrono, with its hidden hands that spring into action when you start the chronograph, was really clever.
</span>
</li>
<li>
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
I'm a sucker for Patek Philippe's egg-shaped Golden Ellipse model and the 2026 version seems precision-made for me. It comes in the same dimensions as the smaller vintage pieces (31.1 × 35.6 mm) and features a pretty olive-green dial.
</span>
</li>
<li>
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
I wish I could zag, but Chopard’s blue L.U.C is a stunner.
</span>
</li>
<li>
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
I love that two of the highest-end brands in the fair rarely take themselves too seriously. Hermès showed a version of its Arceau Samarcande with a partially openworked dial in the shape of a horse. Meanwhile, Chanel took inspiration from gaming and showed a watch with an 8-bit version of Coco Chanel on it. This is what it’s all about: using insanely fine craftsmanship to make something goofy.
</span>
</li>
<li>
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
<a rel="noopener" style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;" target="_blank">
Rolex Daytona with an enamel dial
</a>
—bringing a sultry sheen and elegance to the ultimate tool chronograph.
</span>
</li>
<li>
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
<a rel="noopener" style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;" target="_blank">
ICYMI, here’s our full rundown of all the best releases.
</a>
</span>
</li>
</ul>
</div>
</div>
</td>
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<a target="_blank">
<img alt="The Arnold & Son Luna Magna Platinum. " height="auto" src="https://inboxflows.com/_/image/https%253A%252F%252Fmedia.sailthru.com%252Ffss%252Ffbht11%252Fa599e94d-4446-41b3-b8b9-3e9ea5929d79%252Fhermes.JPG/?inbox_flows_img_sig=eyJwYXRoIjoiaHR0cHMlM0ElMkYlMkZtZWRpYS5zYWlsdCIsInRpbWUiOjE3NzY1MjY4MDUuMzU2OTU5OH0:1wE7m9:1E3pb9Q-bQkJ-JzeL6Uodr3oPvt6IeruozPtO9ADgFE" style="display:block;height:auto;border:0;width:100%" title="The Arnold & Son Luna Magna Platinum. " width="510"/>
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</table>
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<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
<strong>
Are watches more inaccessible than ever?
</strong>
The strangest press appointment I had was at F.P. Journe’s manufacture in the heart of Geneva. In a back room, among tables set up for the brand’s VVIP clients to sip the wine Journe makes and eat fat chunks of Parmesan, the novelties were displayed in two vitrines.
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
Journe has 13 novelties in total this year. They were good, interesting watches I’d love to show you! But I can’t. Not because I don’t have images, but because a small sign appended to the glass cases housing the watches cautioned something I’ve
<em>
never
</em>
seen at a press event for a new product: No photos.
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
The independent maker has never been hotter than it is right now. Last year, a Journe watch made in collaboration with and owned by the director Francis Ford Coppola
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
sold for $10.75 million
</a>
at auction, and nearly every piece—both vintage and modern—is exploding in price right now. Even the Elegante, FPJ’s take on a quartz watch that starts for about $17,000, is now selling for upwards of $100,000 on the secondary market.
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
This year’s novelties are among the most exclusive products Journe has ever released. So rather than further broil collectors already frustrated by the lack of access, FPJ chose not to officially announce them or make any images of the pieces publicly available. But I
<em>
can
</em>
describe them to you, which I’d like to do, because they are crazy.
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
Journe is releasing two box sets. One includes four very blinged-out versions of his Tourbillon Vertical, a watch that tilts the spinning complication so it looks like a buzzsaw coming right at you. The four versions are set with sapphires, emeralds, rubies, and diamonds with dials made of sodalite, green jade, ruby, and white jade, respectively. These can only be bought in a set, and Journe will make just one set per year. And he’ll find no shortage of customers willing to pay the price, which starts at…are you ready?…8 million Swiss francs!
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
The other set, which includes nine watches, is limited to five boxes a year, and costs a little over 1 million Swiss francs. This is an entire collection in a box: all three of Journe’s Linesport family watches—the Chronometre, Centigraphe, and Chronographe—in three different colors each. The red is part of the existing collection, but the new gold-salmon and baby-blue hues are exclusive to this set.
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
The heat around FPJ could make a pizza oven look wimpy, but brands across Geneva are feeling the same crush of interest. Within two days of it being announced,
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
Rexhep Rexhepi received more requests for his 150,000 Swiss franc chronograph
</a>
than he’ll end up making over its entire lifespan in his collection. Another unnamed watchmaker won’t even announce their next model publicly until later this fall—but after showing it to existing clients, they’ve already sold out its multi-year production run. It reminds me of the way Simon Brette has to include in every press release for a new watch that there isn’t a single one available to purchase.
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
It’s a difficult interaction on both ends. How are collectors meant to access watches that are no longer merely expensive or backordered, but actually require an Area 51-esque level of insider knowledge to acquire? Meanwhile, independent watchmakers have to figure out how to politely fend off even the most powerful of clients looking to purchase their wares.
</span>
</p>
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<div class="" style="font-family:'Helvetica Neue',Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:12px;mso-line-height-alt:18px;color:#000;line-height:1.5">
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
At the ritzy, old-fashioned Beau Rivage hotel Thursday afternoon,
<a rel="noopener" style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;" target="_blank">
Material Good’s Yoni Ben-Yehuda
</a>
was wearing the retailer’s
<a rel="noopener" style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;" target="_blank">
new collaboration with Vanguart
</a>
: a pretty blush-pink spin on the Orb. The watch was announced on Monday, but the 25 pieces were already claimed. Ben-Yehuda woke up on Tuesday to over 1,400 texts. Some of those messages were from friends who wanted to discuss the new Watches and Wonders releases, but a not-insignificant number were from buddies and clients who had to be gently let down. Certainly there are worse problems to have when trying to sell watches, but it puts a fine point on just how difficult the very, very best pieces are to get.
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
<strong>
Arguably the most consequential watch
</strong>
of the fair
<strong>
</strong>
was not a new release—it was one being discontinued. Despite rampant speculation ahead of the fair that Rolex was putting the kibosh on the red-and-blue “Pepsi” GMT-Master II, the market reacted frantically once the news was confirmed.
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
Before stepping into Rexhep Rexhepi’s workshop,
<a rel="noopener" style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;" target="_blank">
Mike Nouveau
</a>
and I were chatting about the massive shift in pricing on the dealer chats, which he says is the best place to see how pros are actually valuing pieces. He showed me one dealer who, over the course of several months, kept raising the price on the Pepsi as rumors of its demise swirled and were eventually confirmed.
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
The watch was first listed for $22,500 on February 3. On the Friday before the show, five days before it would be officially discontinued, the dealer raised the price on the same watch to $29,500. Then, on Thursday, the piece was listed in the chat at $35,000. $13K in two months! “Prices have been moving up the last few months based on rumors,” says Paul Altieri, owner of powerhouse Rolex dealer Bob’s Watches “So a lot of this pricing increase is already baked in. What we’re seeing now is a scarcity of product. Prices are already up about 20% and will continue to rise gradually.” Nothing is more powerful than a discontinuation.
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
<strong>
Rexhep Rexhepi made a perfect thing.
</strong>
The watchmaker’s apprenticeship workshop, his fifth space along the cobblestoned Grand-Rue in Geneva's Old Town, was mobbed on Thursday afternoon when I dropped in with Mike.
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
Masses of people eager to see the new CHF watch
</a>
kept streaming through the door. A woman making fancy tea behind a cart made me the best sobacha—a drink I’ve had maybe once before—in my life.
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
When Rexhepi was ready, Mike and I went downstairs to a stark white room with stick lights hanging above a long metal table. It was unclear if we were going to be efficiently murdered or shown a new watch. Luckily, it was the latter.
</span>
</p>
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<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
The new CHF, which stars the chronograph as the central mechanism, reduced both Mike’s and my vocabulary to
<em>
Wow, fuck.
</em>
The watch is a dream to wear with lugs that stretch over the length of your wrist like it’s embracing you in a hug. The steps on the side of the case make it look like a platform for an Egyptian god about to perform miracles. The case size of 38.8mm came about by mistake. It was originally supposed to be 39mm, but in a test run of three cases, one was accidentally made .02mm shorter. Rexhepi noticed the slight deviation, liked the microscopically smaller size even more, and ran with it.
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
It was cool to see how excited Rexhepi was about the watch, which he’s been working on for years. He loves the spindly chronograph arm, thinks the chronograph pushers could offer a little more resistance, and says he’s the only one who’s allowed to tinker with or fix up the movement of his prototypes. I left the workshop high on the fumes, to be honest. If you’d given me a magic wand (because a blank check isn’t powerful enough) with the ability to bring home one watch from Geneva, I’d choose the blue-dial CHF.
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
<strong>
I sat down with Arnaud Carrez, Cartier’s CMO, on
</strong>
Wednesday afternoon. I saw some speculation this week that the beloved Privé program, which resurrects vintage models from the maison’s deep archives, was coming to an end after a decade, the same way the previous platform CPCP wrapped up at the 10-year mark. Cartier didn’t exactly quiet these anxious thoughts with this year’s greatest-hits version of Privé, which felt like the end of a fireworks show. However, Carrez confirmed that it’s not going anywhere. “We like when people speculate,” he said. I’ll share the rest of my convo with him next week.
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
<strong>
There’s more to Rolex’s “Jubilee dial.”
</strong>
As folks like @
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
YoungBrando have pointed out
</a>
, the monogram pattern on the colorful dial shares a strong resemblance with the work of a late artist named Alighiero Boetti. While he’s not mentioned in any of Rolex’s marketing materials, the colorful squares on the new celebratory Oyster Perpetual look nearly identical to the ones used on Boetti’s tapestries from the ’70s and ‘80s. Rolex didn’t immediately respond to a request for comment.
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
<strong>
Gossip time!
</strong>
It’s rumored that one luxury brand offered $100,000 to a celebrity to wear their watch for a single night at the
<em>
Vanity Fair
</em>
Oscars party. Apparently, the celeb went with another house offering him $80K and the chance to keep the watch. Celebrity endorsements are getting out of control.
</span>
</p>
</div>
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<a target="_blank">
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<p style="margin:0;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
<strong>
Drinks are serious business.
</strong>
Bremont imported cans of Diet Coke into Switzerland, which is infamously a Coke-Zero-only country. Parmigiani Fleurier flew their barista—the inimitable Paolo of Perego coffee—in from Milan along with their own coffee. Panerai similarly brought in Italian coffees (they were the only booth, to my knowledge, to offer affogatos). Oris also flew in their own barista, but they “only” came from Zurich.
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<p style="margin:0;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
<strong>
The badges the staff at Audemars Piguet wore were really cool
</strong>
. I need one.
</span>
</p>
</div>
</div>
</td>
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