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   27 Things I Loved, Learned, and Desperately Wanted to Buy at Pitti Uomo
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   A flawless pair of French shoes, the world’s greatest catered work lunch, and more dispatches from Florence’s biannual Menswear Comic-Con.
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                      Welcome to a new era of
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                      , in which a rotating cast of contributors from across the global
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                     GQ
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                      network will deliver breaking menswear intel, intrepid trend reporting, and amusing asides direct to your inbox all Fashion Month long. Next up: senior style editor
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                       <em>
                        Yang-Yi Goh
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                     </a>
                     <em>
                      shares his big takeaways from
                      <strong>
                       Florence's
                      </strong>
                      Pitti Uomo.
                     </em>
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                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     On the second day of Pitti Uomo, as I was still getting my bearings, I heard a buyer call it “Menswear Comic-Con.” Suddenly everything snapped into place.
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                     Because yes: If Paris Fashion Week is the glitzy, all-night rave where
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                      A-listers bare skin and rip darts in the front row
                     </a>
                     , and Milan Fashion Week is the stately, old-money museum gala where luminaries like
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      Ralph Lauren
                     </a>
                     and
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      Giorgio Armani
                     </a>
                     exhibit timeless masterpieces, then Florence’s Pitti is the midnight screening of
                     <em>
                      Avengers
                     </em>
                     where sartorial true believers gather to show off their wildest costumes and dork out over lapel widths and stitching styles. (I say all this with the utmost love, of course, as both a lost-in-the-sauce tailoring
                     <em>
                      and
                     </em>
                     comic-book geek myself.)
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                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     Pitti Immagine Uomo, as it’s formally known, is a sprawling menswear trade show that’s been taking over the Fortezza de Basso, a 16th-century fortress built by the Medicis, twice a year since 1972. It’s traditionally a place for brands and suppliers from across the globe to meet with clients, buyers, and press, but ever since the halcyon
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      #menswear
                     </a>
                     days of the late aughts, it’s perhaps best been known as a
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      street-style circus
                     </a>
                     where a mix of
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      old-world Italian tailors
                     </a>
                     , tasteful industry power players, and an ever-increasing number of peacocking influencer types are photographed in their sauciest ensembles to feed the hungry Instagram masses.
                    </span>
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                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     In the days leading up to my first-ever Pitti, which took place last week, I was cautioned by a longtime attendee that the fair was not quite what it once was—that its business significance had dimmed, with a significant swath of the best brands now skipping Florence in favor of Paris showrooms and the burgeoning Chicago Collective exhibition; that many of the elegant old guard, the
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      Lino Ieluzzis
                     </a>
                     and
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      Yukio Akamines
                     </a>
                     of the world, were no longer showing up.
                    </span>
                   </p>
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                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     Truth is, none of that wound up mattering to me in the slightest. Even in its supposedly diminished state, even after 15 years as a jaded style writer, Pitti Uomo still threatened to short circuit my menswear-addled brain at every turn. Where else can you see an astonishing deep dive into the science of sunfading, attend a pivotal
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      Simone Rocha runway show,
                     </a>
                     <em>
                      and
                     </em>
                     stumble upon a hidden-gem French shoemaker all in the same day? Where else can you stroll into a Renaissance duomo and find a bunch of Dickies work pants displayed beneath the soaring vaulted brick ceiling? Where else can you have endless conversations about tie knots and collar points and not have the other person fall asleep or leave? During what other work conference can you pop out for 40 minutes and have the best bistecca alla florentina and pappardelle bolognese of your life?
                    </span>
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                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     Needless to say: I had an absolute blast, and I’m already dreaming about going back for the fall-winter edition in January, where I’ll get to layer up in heavy tweeds and flannels and not risk heat stroke walking the 17 seconds from one building to the next. In the meantime, here’s what I saw at Pitti Uomo 110—all the stuff I liked, didn’t like, and will be adding to cart pronto.
                    </span>
                   </p>
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                   </p>
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                    <em>
                     <strong>
                      <a rel="noopener" style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;" target="_blank">
                       See all 27 things, curated by GQ's senior style editor.
                      </a>
                     </strong>
                    </em>
                   </p>
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                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <strong>
                     <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                      1. JiyongKim’s jaw-dropping sunfading exhibition
                     </span>
                    </strong>
                   </p>
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                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    Let’s begin by praising what was easily the coolest thing I saw all week. The Korean designer Jiyong Kim (whose eponymous label is his name smushed together) staged an immersive exhibition that traced his many years of research into the effects of sun-bleaching on different natural dye and fabric compositions. The main installation featured 34 identical coats hung in succession, each one left out in the sun for a different interval of time—the first was marked “Day 0,” the last “Day 100.”
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                    Down the flanks of the room, Kim presented his current collections, nearly all of which undergo similar exposure to the elements. With his expert finesse, the 36-year-old is able to wield the sunlight and wind to fade his garments in really artful, intentional ways. No two pieces are exactly alike. I hate to invoke AI Discourse**™** this soon into an article about clothing, but if you’re looking for a little more humanity in your wardrobe these days, JiyongKim’s work is about as real as it gets.
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                     2. These perfect French shoes
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                    One of my first great discoveries of the fair was the shoemaker Timothée Paris, which was founded in 2017 by former Berluti designer Masamitsu Hata and his business partner Pierre Riviere. Hata told me the name was not inspired by Oscar nominee
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                     Chalamet
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                    , but instead by a friend’s son who was hyperactively running around his atelier causing mischief one day. (Are we…sure that wasn’t the same Timmy?)
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                    I’m also a huge fan of this more squared-off, ballet-slipper-esque loafer that the brand premiered at Pitti. Expect an order from me soon, y’all!
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