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Because sometimes the best thing about being into watches is taking the time to gawk at some truly ludicrous and luxurious new timepieces. —
<i>
Cam Wolf, watch correspondent
</i>
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<em>
Welcome to
</em>
<strong>
<em>
Watch Guy Watches
</em>
</strong>
<em>
, GQ’s monthly curation of high-end timepieces for the true watch nerds among us. This July, Richard Mille partners with an Italian bike company, Hublot brings on the sapphire vibes, and both Vacheron and IWC offer new, shrunken versions of their flagship luxury sports watches.
</em>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;margin-bottom:16px">
Despite being up to our wrists in collaboration watches between
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #8e732d;">
Breitling and Aston Martin
</a>
,
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #8e732d;">
Omega and Swatch
</a>
, and a
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #8e732d;">
Hamilton made for Christopher Nolan
</a>
’s
<em>
The Odyssey
</em>
, the truly original still manage to burst through the clutter.
<strong>
Richard Mille’s new RM 64-01 Tourbillon Colnago
</strong>
clears this bar easily.
</p>
<p style="margin:0;margin-bottom:16px">
This is not the type of watch I typically fawn over. Million-dollar “hyperwatches” are more interesting as abstract science experiments/art projects than as actual timekeepers. Colnago is an Italian bicycle manufacturer, and I don’t think I’ve ridden a bike in years. The watch’s appeal comes down to its sunny visuals: the blue-white colorway recalls a perfect day at sea with puffs of clouds in the distance.
</p>
<p style="margin:0">
Of course, this being Richard Mille, the movement is radically reworked to be an essential part of the design. The RM 64-01’s engine looks like a racing bicycle frame, and its clever arrangement is visually arresting while making great use of negative space. This is a new trick even for the audacious Richard Mille, which typically fills every nook and cranny with some space-age design. While my interest in the brand is generally limited to respect for its micro-mechanical and materials expertise, this is a watch I think I’d actually
<em>
wear
</em>
. (Provided I had a spare CHF 800,000 kicking around to spend on one, that is.)
</p>
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<p style="margin:0;margin-bottom:16px">
Speaking of actual high-end watchmaking technology, this thing has it in spades: made of blue and white
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #8e732d;">
Quartz TPT
</a>
with 5N red gold accents, its case is formed from a layered composite produced from thinly sliced silica sheets injected with resin. At 49.9 mm × 43.2 mm and 14.2mm thick, it’s certainly a large watch—but the lightness of the material diffuses much of this weight, while skeletonised grade 5
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #8e732d;">
titanium
</a>
baseplate and bridges further contribute to a comfortable wearing experience. The airy colorway, taken from a Colnago C68 frame, is beautiful and summery, and extends throughout the movement bridges, case, and rubber strap.
</p>
<p style="margin:0;margin-bottom:16px">
Interestingly, the
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #8e732d;">
tourbillon
</a>
fitted within the manually-wound movement really isn’t the main event. Rather, it’s the overall arrangement of the components into a bicycle-like gear train that impresses the wearer. Unusually pared-back for a Richard Mille, the RM 64-01 Tourbillon Colnago manages to capture the essence of both companies without hitting you over the head with logos or other obnoxious branding. It’s truly a thoughtful design, which is something that impresses at any price point.
</p>
<p style="margin:0">
<em>
<u>
<strong>
<a rel="noopener" style="text-decoration: underline; color: #8e732d;" target="_blank">
See the rest of this month’s best releases here.
</a>
</strong>
</u>
</em>
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