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A Runway Show at the French Communist Party’s HQ
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“I thought the backdrop of communism was appropriate, just given the influence of government in our daily lives."
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<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
<em>
Welcome to a new era of
</em>
<strong>
<em>
Show Notes
</em>
</strong>
<em>
, in which a rotating cast of contributors from across the global
</em>
GQ
<em>
network will deliver breaking menswear intel, intrepid trend reporting, and amusing asides direct to your inbox all Fashion Month long. Next up:
<a rel="noopener" style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;" target="_blank">
Eileen Cartter
</a>
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
</a>
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
</a>
<a rel="noopener" style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;" target="_blank">
</a>
takes you through the Willy Chavarria show in Paris
</em>
<em>
.
</em>
</span>
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<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
Last June, Willy Chavarria opened his Paris Fashion Week presentation with an unambiguous tribute to the immigrants and citizens who had been detained in the US by ICE. It was a potent gesture,
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
one that the American designer said
</a>
was about “claiming identity [while] we’re in a time of erasure.” On Friday, he staged his latest Paris presentation—his fourth time showing in the city—in the space-agey underground lair of Espace Niemeyer, the headquarters of the French Communist Party, which is recognizable from the street by the massive concrete half-sphere protruding from its front lawn.
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<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
“Other than the fact that I love this building and I’ve been an admirer of this building for a thousand years—well, more like 40 years—I thought the backdrop of communism was appropriate, just given the influence of government in our daily lives and the impact that our government has on how we think, feel, move, eat, listen,” Chavarria told me backstage after Friday’s show.
</span>
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<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
The choice to stage a fashion show there is not inherently political, but it’s no surprise that Chavarria embraced its topical subtext anyways. The Brutalist space—sleek and stylish, with sloped concrete tunnels and midcentury teal carpeting—has hosted many runways over the years: Margiela, Thom Browne, Stella McCartney, Off-White, and the pre-pandemic Yeezy show, where a then six-year-old North West
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
performed an idiosyncratic ditty
</a>
that went, “What are thooooose? These are cloooothes.” In Chavarria’s case, the setting bolstered his theme for the season, “Comunión,” which naturally carries both Eucharistic and
<em>
commun
</em>
al connotations.
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
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<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
“The idea of us communing in joy and finding the joy in each other and in life and in our communal selves is the message I’m putting out there, in contrast with the sharp horror of the world that we’re living in right now,” the designer said backstage. “I really hope to convey an idea in the show of light in the darkness because that joy that we all seek is our nutrition that allows us to go on.”
</span>
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<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
On the runway, there were more Willyisms at play. After a brief, sedative voiceover encouraged the
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
overheated
</a>
audience to breathe (“Tell your body that you are safe and you can relax … Feel as much love and gratitude as you can in this moment”), the first model—wearing a black T-shirt stretched behind his head into a shrug and black leather pants with a novelty pack of “Willy Smokes” tucked into his waistband—emerged from a tunnel of light into the concrete dome’s rotunda, where a string quartet performed.
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
There were celebrities on the runway (Knicks champ
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
Jordan Clarkson
</a>
,
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
Romeo Beckham
</a>
) and in the front row (Maluma,
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
Haider Ackermann
</a>
, the actual
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
Stan Smith
</a>
). There were cool leather bags, candy-toned jackets, and big honkin’ rubber boots (sigh,
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
speaking of Yeezy
</a>
) produced by Ugg. Boxers were worn hiked up under pleated pants and denim shorts; some looks featured boxers layered
<em>
on top of
</em>
other boxers (boxers inception?).
</span>
</p>
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<em>
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 13px;">
Jordan Clarkson on the runway. WWD/Getty Images
</span>
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a two-time winner
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