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Inside the ‘Super Bowl of the Watch World’
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Last week, dealers from across the world set up shop in Miami for the most important vintage watch show in the world. I spoke with three dealers on the ground about how it's shaping the watch market.
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<strong style="background-color:transparent">
<span style="word-break: break-word;">
Watches & Wonders:
</span>
</strong>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:58px;mso-line-height-alt:52.2px;letter-spacing:-3px">
<strong style="background-color:transparent">
<span style="word-break: break-word;">
Day 1
</span>
</strong>
</p>
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<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
Bonjour from Geneva,
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
The first day of Watches and Wonders 2026 is officially in the books.
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<br/>
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
During the Rolex presentation, where a dozen members of the press gathered around the austere table to pass around the brand’s shiny new pieces, we veered from the old to the new. The Crown’s representative noticed a Rolex Submariner on the wrist of our own
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
Oren Hartov
</a>
, who relayed that he’d received it for his bar mitzvah nearly 25 years ago and showed us a sweet engraving from his family on the back. That’s when Matt Hranrek, founder of the WM Brown Project, leapt in: “Do you want to see its grandfather?”
</span>
</p>
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<p style="margin:0">
Sorry, I’m still figuring out this camera
</p>
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<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
Hranek passed over his Submariner ref. 5513, the granddaddy of all early-’60s vintage Subs. This is what Watches and Wonders is all about: watch guys big-boying other watch guys. I’m joking! The moment was a sweet reminder of what watches are
<em>
actually
</em>
all about—why we all get interested in these events in the first place—amidst the glut of novelties. It’s the dream for any watchmaker to make a piece that’s given as a thoughtful present, remains on the recipient’s wrist for over two decades, and holds meaningful links to history. And at Watches and Wonders, the future of these immortal pieces is uncovered.
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
In between being sappy, we published a lot of great stories today on GQ.com. Here are all our reports on the biggest and best new releases from Watches and Wonders.
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
<strong>
All the new Rolex models, ranked
</strong>
</a>
</span>
</p>
</div>
</div>
</td>
</tr>
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<div style="max-width:510px">
<a target="_blank">
<img alt="Courtesy of the Field Museum" height="auto" src="https://inboxflows.com/_/image/https%253A%252F%252Fmedia.sailthru.com%252Ffss%252Ffbht11%252F16e72712-a222-4db4-bc9a-432b7d7edb54%252FJUBILEEDIAL.jpeg/?inbox_flows_img_sig=eyJwYXRoIjoiaHR0cHMlM0ElMkYlMkZtZWRpYS5zYWlsdCIsInRpbWUiOjE3NzYyNTQ3MTAuNjEwNDgzfQ:1wCyzW:jLreOmA3ZjD3p7Z6HSYmiOxr_R9OlKZStwSs0XDlyD0" style="display:block;height:auto;border:0;width:100%" title="Courtesy of the Field Museum" width="510"/>
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<p style="margin:0">
Courtesy of Mike Nouveau
</p>
</div>
</td>
</tr>
</table>
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<div class="" style="font-family:'Helvetica Neue',Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:12px;mso-line-height-alt:18px;color:#000;line-height:1.5">
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
Last night, immediately after Rolex debuted its latest novelties, my British GQ counterpart Mike Christensen and I played a fun game: We ranked every single new piece, from the two-tone Oyster Perpetual to the overhauled Yacht-Master II. First overall was a no-brainer for me: the enamel-dial Rolex Daytona, which was probably the most exciting piece I got to actually hold today. The enamel dial looks so lusciously soft, you almost want to lick it like a scoop of vanilla ice cream.
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
Surveying the crowd at the Palexpo, many people unsurprisingly shouted out the enamel-dial Daytona as their favorite as well. What
<em>
was
</em>
surprising, however, is that I encountered many more fans of the zany “Jubilee Dial”—the colorful one that says “ROLEX” all over it—than I expected. I kept bringing it up to folks as a mild rage bait, only for them to zag: “I actually like it!” It’s not a watch for everyone, of course, but I was glad to see the crowd embracing some unexpected flash from the Crown.
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
<strong>
Cartier releases a best-of from its Prive collection
</strong>
</a>
</span>
</p>
</div>
</div>
</td>
</tr>
</table>
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<p style="margin:0">
Courtesy of Mike Nouveau
</p>
</div>
</td>
</tr>
</table>
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<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
There were a
<em>
lot
</em>
of Cartier releases this year, from Santoses on killer gold bracelets, teeny-tiny Tanks set with diamonds, a re-release of the sporty Roadster, and several nice Baignores. But the pinnacle of the collection is probably the skeleton-dial Crash, which uses the scaffolding of the movement to retain its signature Roman numerals.
</p>
</div>
</div>
</td>
</tr>
</table>
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<div style="max-width:510px">
<a target="_blank">
<img alt="The Arnold & Son Luna Magna Platinum. " height="auto" src="https://inboxflows.com/_/image/https%253A%252F%252Fmedia.sailthru.com%252Ffss%252Ffbht11%252Fbeedad4f-0ff7-4206-91cf-c66259ae673a%252FMIKE.jpeg/?inbox_flows_img_sig=eyJwYXRoIjoiaHR0cHMlM0ElMkYlMkZtZWRpYS5zYWlsdCIsInRpbWUiOjE3NzYyNTQ3MTAuNjEwNjc3N30:1wCyzW:ep8uYZZyxsklLeBQfSOKfekR3U8_zTbG9byRORLI7JE" style="display:block;height:auto;border:0;width:100%" title="The Arnold & Son Luna Magna Platinum. " width="510"/>
</a>
</div>
</div>
</td>
</tr>
</table>
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<div style="color:#000;direction:ltr;font-family:'Courier New',Courier,'Lucida Sans Typewriter','Lucida Typewriter',monospace;font-size:13px;font-weight:700;letter-spacing:-1px;line-height:.9;text-align:right;mso-line-height-alt:12px">
<p style="margin:0">
Courtesy of Adam Golden
</p>
</div>
</td>
</tr>
</table>
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="text_block block-16" role="presentation" style="mso-table-lspace:0;mso-table-rspace:0;word-break:break-word" width="100%">
<tr>
<td class="pad" style="padding-bottom:15px;padding-left:25px;padding-right:25px">
<div style="font-family:Arial,sans-serif">
<div class="" style="font-family:'Helvetica Neue',Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:12px;mso-line-height-alt:18px;color:#000;line-height:1.5">
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
The best thing I saw at the Cartier preview, however, wasn’t a new watch at all. It was the vintage Cartier London Tank Normale on the wrist
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
of Mike Nouveau, the reigning King of WatchTok
</a>
.
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
<strong>
Tudor is picking up some tricks from its older bro
</strong>
</a>
</span>
</p>
</div>
</div>
</td>
</tr>
</table>
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="image_block block-17" role="presentation" style="mso-table-lspace:0;mso-table-rspace:0" width="100%">
<tr>
<td class="pad" style="padding-left:25px;padding-right:25px;padding-top:20px;width:100%">
<div align="center" class="alignment">
<div style="max-width:510px">
<a target="_blank">
<img alt="The Arnold & Son Luna Magna Platinum. " height="auto" src="https://inboxflows.com/_/image/https%253A%252F%252Fmedia.sailthru.com%252Ffss%252Ffbht11%252Fe630f720-0f82-4552-b120-780a7039346b%252Ftudor.jpeg/?inbox_flows_img_sig=eyJwYXRoIjoiaHR0cHMlM0ElMkYlMkZtZWRpYS5zYWlsdCIsInRpbWUiOjE3NzYyNTQ3MTAuNjEwNzY5fQ:1wCyzW:8017cBAMp1KaB_7Lnu2e-_uaZbLapJMwhBQ-gsdZ00I" style="display:block;height:auto;border:0;width:100%" title="The Arnold & Son Luna Magna Platinum. " width="510"/>
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</table>
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</tr>
</tbody>
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</td>
</tr>
</tbody>
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<tbody>
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<td>
<table align="center" border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="row-content stack" role="presentation" style="mso-table-lspace:0;mso-table-rspace:0;background-color:#fff;color:#000;width:560px;margin:0 auto" width="560">
<tbody>
<tr>
<td class="column column-1" style="mso-table-lspace:0;mso-table-rspace:0;font-weight:400;text-align:left;padding-bottom:10px;vertical-align:top" width="100%">
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="text_block block-1" role="presentation" style="mso-table-lspace:0;mso-table-rspace:0;word-break:break-word" width="100%">
<tr>
<td class="pad" style="padding-bottom:15px;padding-left:25px;padding-right:25px">
<div style="font-family:Arial,sans-serif">
<div class="" style="font-family:'Helvetica Neue',Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:12px;mso-line-height-alt:18px;color:#000;line-height:1.5">
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
Tudor has long been thought of as a testing ground for Rolex’s big releases. The brand is often more adventurous with color and material than its big brother, and many of those experiments wind up in the Crown’s lineup years later. (The upward swim of titanium is a perfect example of that.) This year, though, it was Rolex putting out vibrant tones and testing out brand-new materials (”Jubilee Gold!”). Meanwhile, Tudor took a page out of the Rolex playbook and carefully tinkered with its fan-favorite watches. The result is an eminently buyable collection of Black Bays.
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
<strong>
TAG Heuer’s icon refinds its form
</strong>
</a>
</span>
</p>
</div>
</div>
</td>
</tr>
</table>
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="image_block block-2" role="presentation" style="mso-table-lspace:0;mso-table-rspace:0" width="100%">
<tr>
<td class="pad" style="padding-left:25px;padding-right:25px;padding-top:20px;width:100%">
<div align="center" class="alignment">
<div style="max-width:510px">
<a target="_blank">
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</a>
</div>
</div>
</td>
</tr>
</table>
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="text_block block-3" role="presentation" style="mso-table-lspace:0;mso-table-rspace:0;word-break:break-word" width="100%">
<tr>
<td class="pad" style="padding-bottom:15px;padding-left:25px;padding-right:25px">
<div style="font-family:Arial,sans-serif">
<div class="" style="font-family:'Helvetica Neue',Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:12px;mso-line-height-alt:18px;color:#000;line-height:1.5">
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
As a father of two young children, I know what it’s like to lose your way and grow a little soft around the edges. But, at some point, you have to look at yourself in the mirror and lock TF in. That’s what the designers at TAG did with their new reworking of the Monaco. The Steve McQueen-loved chronograph left the catalog in 1975 and was revived in 1997, but the several iterations released since then never truly returned the watch to its original form. Now, the OG is back in all its offbeat, blocky glory.
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
<strong>
Chopard won’t be able to keep this secret anymore
</strong>
</a>
</span>
</p>
</div>
</div>
</td>
</tr>
</table>
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="image_block block-4" role="presentation" style="mso-table-lspace:0;mso-table-rspace:0" width="100%">
<tr>
<td class="pad" style="padding-left:25px;padding-right:25px;padding-top:20px;width:100%">
<div align="center" class="alignment">
<div style="max-width:510px">
<a target="_blank">
<img alt="The Arnold & Son Luna Magna Platinum. " height="auto" src="https://inboxflows.com/_/image/https%253A%252F%252Fmedia.sailthru.com%252Ffss%252Ffbht11%252F66ca65a1-38e9-45f9-b825-17a80c14da66%252Fchopard.jpeg/?inbox_flows_img_sig=eyJwYXRoIjoiaHR0cHMlM0ElMkYlMkZtZWRpYS5zYWlsdCIsInRpbWUiOjE3NzYyNTQ3MTAuNjEwOTgyNH0:1wCyzW:OuTwaSEH-AibslYcgtpamtMtIBVDrlSSogkMQGajKqk" style="display:block;height:auto;border:0;width:100%" title="The Arnold & Son Luna Magna Platinum. " width="510"/>
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</tr>
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<tr>
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<div style="font-family:Arial,sans-serif">
<div class="" style="font-family:'Helvetica Neue',Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:12px;mso-line-height-alt:18px;color:#000;line-height:1.5">
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
In his
<em>
GQ
</em>
story on the new L.U.C. 1860,
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
<em>
Unpolished
</em>
</a>
’s Tony Traina called this model
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
the watch world’s most elegant secret
</a>
. Three years ago, Chopard released a salmon-dial version of this deceptively simple watch that’s become a favorite of in-the-know collectors. Now, the brand just made the watch even more wearable by throwing a fastball right down the middle with a
<em>
blue
</em>
dial. Blue might not be the most revolutionary choice, but it’s a classic for a reason, and immediately turns the model from a special-occasion piece to an all-occasion daily driver. At this stage, the L.U.C. 1860 is less of a secret, and more like that note passed in class that the teacher makes you read aloud.
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
<strong>
The hot newcomer keeps the momentum going
</strong>
</a>
</span>
</p>
</div>
</div>
</td>
</tr>
</table>
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="image_block block-6" role="presentation" style="mso-table-lspace:0;mso-table-rspace:0" width="100%">
<tr>
<td class="pad" style="padding-left:25px;padding-right:25px;padding-top:20px;width:100%">
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<div style="max-width:510px">
<a target="_blank">
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</div>
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<tr>
<td class="pad" style="padding-bottom:15px;padding-left:25px;padding-right:25px">
<div style="font-family:Arial,sans-serif">
<div class="" style="font-family:'Helvetica Neue',Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:12px;mso-line-height-alt:18px;color:#000;line-height:1.5">
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
Zenith’s G.F.J. only made its debut last year, but it’s quickly cemented itself as a prized commodity. The lapis lazuli version that kicked off the line in 2025 quickly sold out and racked up a prize at the GPHG awards, the watch industry’s Oscars. Zenith didn’t wait long to unveil a pair of sequels. (TV showrunners, take note.) Both of the new G.F.J.s—one in tantalum with a black diamond-set dial, the other in yellow gold with a green jasper bloodstone dial—build on Zenith’s goal of elevating its output..
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
<strong>
Universal Genéve: still good!
</strong>
</a>
</span>
</p>
</div>
</div>
</td>
</tr>
</table>
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="image_block block-8" role="presentation" style="mso-table-lspace:0;mso-table-rspace:0" width="100%">
<tr>
<td class="pad" style="padding-left:25px;padding-right:25px;padding-top:20px;width:100%">
<div align="center" class="alignment">
<div style="max-width:510px">
<a target="_blank">
<img alt="The Arnold & Son Luna Magna Platinum. " height="auto" src="https://inboxflows.com/_/image/https%253A%252F%252Fmedia.sailthru.com%252Ffss%252Ffbht11%252F8f8d33ba-d3ce-4c4e-b9fc-a380773fdc25%252FPOLEROUTER.jpeg/?inbox_flows_img_sig=eyJwYXRoIjoiaHR0cHMlM0ElMkYlMkZtZWRpYS5zYWlsdCIsInRpbWUiOjE3NzYyNTQ3MTAuNjExMTYwOH0:1wCyzW:9qCWPmPXkhq1ve_o-55BSz9y5mQpuyjjrswGGroaAHU" style="display:block;height:auto;border:0;width:100%" title="The Arnold & Son Luna Magna Platinum. " width="510"/>
</a>
</div>
</div>
</td>
</tr>
</table>
<table border="0" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="text_block block-9" role="presentation" style="mso-table-lspace:0;mso-table-rspace:0;word-break:break-word" width="100%">
<tr>
<td class="pad" style="padding-bottom:15px;padding-left:25px;padding-right:25px">
<div style="font-family:Arial,sans-serif">
<div class="" style="font-family:'Helvetica Neue',Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:12px;mso-line-height-alt:18px;color:#000;line-height:1.5">
<p style="margin:0;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
Universal Genéve, which relaunched last week following three decades of dormancy, saved its big celebration for Monday night when everyone was in town for the fair. I was already a fan of the watches based on the images the brand shared, but at Monday’s party, I finally got to actually see them in person and even take one for a spin. The Cabriolet, which was my favorite online, slipped slightly in my estimation. The case isn’t as streamlined as it could be. However, I did get to try on the new (and controversially priced) Polerouter, which I found sublime. The watch is thin and light, with a bracelet that’s as comfortable as silk pajamas. I’ll leave you with some images from the event. I’ll be back later in the week for a full Watches and Wonders debrief.
</span>
</p>
</div>
</div>
</td>
</tr>
</table>
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</div>
</div>
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</tr>
</table>
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</table>
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<strong>
More Great
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</p>
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Watch Stories
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