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                   <i>
                    Welcome to Open Tab, a weekly roundup of news, gossip, and stories that have stayed open in my tabs all week. Last week we covered
                    <a rel="noopener" style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;" target="_blank">
                     the pasta sauce company that wants to record your conversations
                    </a>
                    .
                   </i>
                   <br/>
                   <br/>
                   This week I was pleased to read a lovely piece by
                   <b>
                    Ella Quittner
                   </b>
                   about
                   <a rel="noopener" style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;" target="_blank">
                    <b>
                     Jacques Pépin
                    </b>
                    , now 90, who makes the world's greatest chicken
                   </a>
                   . I particularly liked when Pépin told Quittner, author of the incredible cookbook
                   <a rel="noopener" style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;" target="_blank">
                    <i>
                     Obsessed with the Best
                    </i>
                   </a>
                   , that everyone's “definition of the best of anything is ‘to a certain extent a narcissistic reflection of your taste.’” Gagged me a bit, to be honest.
                   <br/>
                   <br/>
                   Oysterman
                   <b>
                    Graham Platner
                   </b>
                   will likely be the Democratic challenger to Susan Collins in Maine's upcoming Senate race after governor
                   <a rel="noopener" style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;" target="_blank">
                    <b>
                     Janet Mills
                    </b>
                    dropped out this week
                   </a>
                   . When
                   <a rel="noopener" style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;" target="_blank">
                    I profiled Platner late last year
                   </a>
                   , I found it fascinating to see how food—and his work as an oysterman—play a huge part in his politics.
                   <br/>
                   <br/>
                   In this week’s Open Tab:
                   <b>
                    Noma
                   </b>
                   's reservation books are certainly not empty, there's
                   <b>
                    pizza drama
                   </b>
                   on the feed, we review
                   <b>
                    Goop Kitchen
                   </b>
                   's NYC offering, and we're curious: would you take
                   <b>
                    product recs from an AI podcast
                   </b>
                   ?
                   <br/>
                   <br/>
                   <i>
                    If
                    <b>
                     you
                    </b>
                    have any food gossip to share, please send me a
                    <a rel="noopener" style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;" target="_blank">
                     note
                    </a>
                    or a
                    <a rel="noopener" style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;" target="_blank">
                     DM
                    </a>
                    .
                   </i>
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                   SAM STONE
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                    Critics are Still Dining at Noma for Some Reason
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                   BY SAM STONE
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                   Perhaps you remember
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                    the Noma scandal that rocked the food world
                   </a>
                   , and ended with René Redzepi's stepping away from the LA residency? After the outcry, sponsors dropped, reservations were cancelled, and the general sentiment was “screw those guys! I'll never eat
                   <a rel="noopener" style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;" target="_blank">
                    deer penis
                   </a>
                   there ever again!”
                   <br/>
                   <br/>
                   And yet here we are. The reservation books at Noma aren't empty. Tom Sietsema, former food critic at
                   <i>
                    The Washington Post
                   </i>
                   ,
                   <a rel="noopener" style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;" target="_blank">
                    ate at the Noma pop-up last month
                   </a>
                   , and declared the food “perfect-adjacent.” Now
                   <i>
                    Los Angeles Times
                   </i>
                   editor Daniel Hernandez, too, has reported on his meal at Noma LA, even as
                   <a rel="noopener" style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;" target="_blank">
                    the paper's critics declined to dine there
                   </a>
                   . Certainly they're not alone.
                   <a rel="noopener" style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;" target="_blank">
                    Elon Musk has eaten there
                   </a>
                   , as have some notable other rich people.
                   <br/>
                   <br/>
                   As another LA scandal restaurant,
                   <a rel="noopener" style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;" target="_blank">
                    Sqirl, enters its redemption era
                   </a>
                   post
                   <a rel="noopener" style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;" target="_blank">
                    Moldy Jam-gate
                   </a>
                   , perhaps we must ask ourselves: Can a restaurant ever actually be cancelled? Should they be?
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