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Despite having worked full-time with Americans for the past five years, I have to admit, as a Brit, that I still don’t
<i>
really
</i>
get Thanksgiving. I don’t understand what it’s celebrating (harvests? Friendship? Colonialism?) and I really don’t understand the food. Honestly, who in their right mind would want to eat a whole roast turkey?
<br/>
<br/>
But I digress. I am thrilled to write the intro for this week’s Nostalgia Newsletter because the story I’m introducing is by Jeffrey Steingarten, the former food critic at
<i>
Vogue
</i>
. I was first introduced to Jeffrey’s writing by my friend Marisa, who works with the Alajmo family—the greatest chefs of the Veneto—and gave me his book
<i>
The Man Who Ate Everything
</i>
right after I started my job as
<i>
Vogue
</i>
’s lifestyle editor. It contains some of the smartest, funniest, most stylish essays about finding pleasure in food I’d ever read; I finished it in two or three helpings and cannot recommend it enough.
<br/>
<br/>
Steingarten’s Thanksgiving essay may feel a little academic at first: he goes on for a bit about a turkey shot in Connecticut in 1794 by Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin, the indulgent French gastronome who also happens to feature heavily in one of my favorite novels of all time, John Lanchester’s
<i>
The Debt to Pleasure
</i>
. (Read that too!) But then, with the help of the late, great chef David Bouley, he reels off a series of recipes to celebrate the holiday, each more enticing than the last: crookneck squash soup with maple-glazed sour apples, Maine diver scallops roasted in lemon thyme, white-tail rabbit with a green herb mustard sauce, Agen prunes in a verbena flan with burnt muscovado sugar and gingerbread and Armagnac ice cream.
<br/>
<br/>
Okay, maybe I
<i>
do
</i>
get why you guys do Thanksgiving. Just please don’t waste your time roasting a whole turkey. Cut it up! I really will die on that hill.
</span>
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From the Archives: David Bouley’s Thanksgiving 1994 Menu
</a>
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THIS WEEK IN 1924
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On November 27, 1924, the first Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade was held in New York City.
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