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Fashion loves to insist on the new—but it is just as often built on the thrill of rediscovery. Case in point: March 2006, when
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, in a piece by Sarah Mower, observed the Spring runways returning—almost compulsively—to the previous decade, and set out to unpack the allure of the very recent past. “Spring’s hypersexy looks have all of us thinking about vintage Alaïa and Versace dresses,” she wrote, zeroing in on a renewed appetite for “ultra-short, curvy dresses, gold medallions, and hot, hot color.”
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What followed was less an exercise in nostalgia than a kind of experiment. To test how these icons might live again,
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sourced three vintage pieces—two Versace dresses (including a 1997 black asymmetric gown and a sparkling 1988 Eiffel Tower chain-mail number) and an Azzedine Alaïa cross-back body-con dress—and asked a new guard of designers to restyle them: Marc Jacobs, Christopher Kane, and Ann-Sofie Back. The brief was simple: how would you make these originals feel relevant now?
<br/>
<br/>
The answers revealed a subtle but telling shift in attitude. “I’d never touch an Azzedine… His pieces never look dated, even 20 years on,” Jacobs said, proposing instead that “a casual attitude would make it surprising”—flats instead of heels, ease instead of overt seduction. Back suggested layering and restraint; Kane leaned into proportion and disruption. The goal was not to preserve these pieces, but to gently unsettle them—just enough to make them feel alive again. Donatella Versace, reflecting on her brother’s work, admitted she might shorten that Eiffel Tower dress substantially—a small but pointed reminder that even icons are not immune to reinterpretation.
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It’s a sentiment that felt especially apt this weekend at the
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</i>
Vintage Market, where garments from across decades were rehoused into 2026 wardrobes. Because if Mower’s piece reminds us of anything, it’s that fashion doesn’t repeat itself so much as it reframes itself. Or, as Donatella Versace reflected, “It was a moment in fashion… The sexuality was really strong.”
<br/>
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Strong enough, it seems, to return—again, and again.
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THIS WEEK IN 1990
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On this day in 1990, Pretty Woman premiered—and with it, one of the most iconic movie wardrobes of all time. Julia Roberts’s red opera gown by Vicky Tiel remains the ultimate cinematic glow-up: elegant, enduring, and entirely unforgettable.
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