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   At Saint Laurent, Fetish Footwear Evolves
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   “I always like the fetish things in a way,” says Anthony Vaccarello.
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                      All images courtesy of Saint Laurent
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                      takes you through the Saint Laurent show in Paris
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                     Whether or not you subscribe to the notion that talking about the weather is boring (I,
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                      like some
                     </a>
                     , don’t mind it), it’s hard to talk about much else when it’s 100 degrees outside. France is in the midst of an intense heat wave, and many of the conversations I witnessed on the sweltering first day of Paris Fashion Week sounded a lot like “How are you?” followed by some variation of “It’s hot” or “I’m sweaty.” Even fashion editors, who routinely shirk the forecast for the sake of getting a fit off, coped in shorts and
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                      toe-bearing sandals
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                     .
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                     Even Saint Laurent designer Anthony Vaccarello, when previewing his spring 2027 show on Tuesday afternoon, characterized his new collection by its timely levity: “Especially in summer with the heatwave and everything, you want something very easy, very, very light,” he said, speaking in a cool, calm room that had been constructed in the lower level of the mercifully air-conditioned Bourse de Commerce, where the label has staged its shows for the last few seasons. Furthermore, Vaccarello wanted to hone in on restraint, paring back.
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                     On the runway, which was staged in the building’s sunny rotunda, that pared-back lightness appeared a few different ways in the clothes: soft, unlined jackets; paper-thin knits; a color scheme that featured pale, foamy blues and bright peach rather than the
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      heavy mustards
                     </a>
                     and
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      rich jewel tones
                     </a>
                     of recent seasons. Somewhat oxymoronically, there was also beguiling translucence in the form of pointy-toed lace-up shoes made of thick, see-through, and sometimes flesh-toned plastic, which Vaccarello himself posted a photo of as a teaser ahead of the show.
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                     Plastic shoes? In this climate?
                     <em>
                      O heavy lightness! Misshapen chaos of well-seeming forms!
                     </em>
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                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     The polymer steppers, Vacarello explained, were a menswear riff on the transparent TPU stilettos he presented
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      on the women’s runway
                     </a>
                     last season: a classic silhouette with a horny twist. Regarding the footwear, the designer said, “I always like the fetish things in a way, and I like to see them walking barefoot.” Wearing them with socks, he vehemently argued, would defeat the purpose. “It’s the fine line between classy and kinky.”
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     Vacarello
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      has upped the kinky factor
                     </a>
                     with each new season, from the
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      thigh-high leather waders
                     </a>
                     seen ’round the World Wide Web (and
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      in this magazine
                     </a>
                     ) to the glossy latex sock-shoes that Saint Laurent ambassador-darling Connor Storrie wore—with a matching trenchcoat, diabolical—
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      in the blazing heat
                     </a>
                     to Thursday’s runway presentation. “I’m very hot! I’m sweating my ass off,” the
                     <em>
                      Heated Rivalry
                     </em>
                     star
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      said
                     </a>
                     outside of the show, incidentally supporting my earlier point. (Certainly, whether Storrie will wear the clear plastic lace-ups to the next runway show is more a matter of “when” than “if.”)
                    </span>
                   </p>
                  </div>
                 </div>
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                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     To that end: It’s hard not to consider wearing latex socks or plastic shoes on a hot summer’s day without thinking of the consequences of their human application. What about…condensation? Those who were paying attention to fashion in 2018 may remember
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      the infamous Yeezy PVC heels
                     </a>
                     . (This wasn’t limited to the footwear, either: This collection also featured unsubtle leather briefs.) Not to put too fine a point on it, but where there’s heat, there’s moisture. Kinky, indeed.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     Funnily enough, the presentation began with steam: a rupture of wet fog that emerged from the rotunda floor. The fog itself was a sculpture called
                     <em>
                      Cloud #07156
                     </em>
                     , an immersive fog installation by the Japanese artist Fujiko Nakaya, and it billowed around the room, sometimes obscuring the models on the runway, and left beads of condensation on the floor.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     The mercurial mist emphasized Vaccarello’s theme this season, of the shifts between presence and absence. A press release for the collection described it as “a rejection of our need to always know, always speak, always see. We have forgotten the pleasure of the unknown, the unseen and the unspoken.” The pleasure of the unseen, certainly. Except, of course, when it comes to feet.
                    </span>
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                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <em>
                     <u>
                      <strong>
                       <a rel="noopener" style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;" target="_blank">
                        <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                         See all the looks from the show.
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       </tbody>
      </table>
     </td>
    </tr>
   </tbody>
  </table>
  <!-- End -->
 </body>
</html>