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   Kevin Hart’s Favorite Watch Is Also Small but Mighty
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   The comedy megastar, whose new movie 72 Hours hits Netflix on July 24, owns hundreds of jaw-dropping timepieces but always comes back to this legendary Patek Philippe rarity.
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                   Photo Illustration: Kelsey Niziolek. Kevin Hart: Bennett Raglin/Getty Images. Patek Philippe Ref. 5004G: Courtesy of Sotheby’s.
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                    <strong>
                     Kevin Hart’s Favorite Watch Is
                     <em>
                      Also
                     </em>
                     Small but Mighty
                    </strong>
                   </p>
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                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
                     <strong>
                      Kevin Hart likes
                     </strong>
                     watches he can relate to. “Small in stature, but big in ability, big in cadence, big in personality,” says the comedian and actor, whose collection includes more than 250 timepieces. And as far as Hart is concerned, the watch that best captures those qualities is Patek Philippe’s groundbreaking reference 5004—a watch so significant to him, he owns three versions. “It’s a treat for me when I choose to wear it,” says Hart, who’s sported the 5004 everywhere from the BET Awards to
                     <em>
                      The Tonight Show.
                     </em>
                     Hart has rarer and flashier watches in his arsenal, but his abiding love for the 5004 is proof of his nerd-level reverence for horological history.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
                     Like so many collectors blessed with the income to support their obsession, Hart started slow—treating himself to a watch to celebrate a new movie or stand-up special—but found himself pulled ever deeper, eventually chasing rarities from hallowed brands like Patek and Audemars Piguet. “Once I got into that wheelhouse, I just couldn’t stop,” he says.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
                     These days, rather than purchasing watches to mark moments in
                     <em>
                      his
                     </em>
                     story, Hart acquires them to further the story of his collection, approaching new timepieces with a historian’s eye. “It’s understanding the birth of a watch, the family that it’s coming from, or if it’s a transition point for a brand,” he says. That’s what makes the 5004 such a defining piece in Hart’s rotation.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
                     When Patek Philippe debuted the model in 1994, it became the first serially produced watch to pair a perpetual calendar (displaying the day, date, and month accurately until the year 2100) with a split-seconds chronograph (akin to a stopwatch’s lap feature). More than just another time-telling machine, the 5004 marked a technical leap—and an important new chapter—in the already illustrious history of Patek. That history doesn’t come cheap: These days, precious-metal 5004s like Hart’s often sell for roughly $400,000 on the secondary market.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
                     Few pieces express time with more grandeur: From within its compact 36.5-mm case, the 5004 is able to chart out the next 74 years without human intervention—an entire lifetime! That fits in perfectly with why Hart fell in love with watches: because of the way they make him
                     <em>
                      feel
                     </em>
                     time.
                    </span>
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
                     “I value my time,” he says. “I put a lot of time, energy, and effort into whatever I do.”
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
                     A true completist, Hart fell so hard for the 5004 that, after acquiring a coveted white gold example (around 140 are believed to exist) almost a decade ago, he’s gone on to pick up the model in nearly every metal available, securing examples in stainless steel and rose gold. (No surprise that when you have Hart’s watch cred and means, you start to make friends in the industry. Hart tells me that he knows about watches set to drop in 2028—and already has dibs on a few himself.)
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
                     As a man who’s well aware of time’s passage, Hart has a plan in place for his watches once he passes on. “[My kids] know, Daddy’s babies, they go to you,” he says. “You hold onto it forever. I would love for my kids to be able to say, ‘Wow, we have Dad’s pride and joy.’ ”
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
                     His generosity comes with only one stipulation: “Do
                     <em>
                      not
                     </em>
                     sell my shit.”
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
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                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:58px;mso-line-height-alt:52.2px;letter-spacing:-3px">
                    <strong>
                     Why a Watch Tastemaker Is Getting Into Bad-Taste Watches
                    </strong>
                   </p>
                  </div>
                 </div>
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                  <a target="_blank">
                   <img alt="An assortment of different luxury watches" height="auto" src="https://inboxflows.com/_/image/https%253A%252F%252Fmedia.sailthru.com%252Ffss%252Ffbht11%252Fd0f27c91-14bf-4930-be1c-0775a47a915f%252FIMG_2720.jpeg/?inbox_flows_img_sig=eyJwYXRoIjoiaHR0cHMlM0ElMkYlMkZtZWRpYS5zYWlsdCIsInRpbWUiOjE3ODA2NjEwNDYuMDUyNDkxN30:1wVTHS:gKMKGzBoONL9qYgys8PuM9F3os2yN2IV2dhb0RcpQqk" style="display:block;height:auto;border:0;width:100%" title="An assortment of different luxury watches" width="550"/>
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                  <p style="margin:0">
                   Courtesy Phillip Toledano
                  </p>
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                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
                     Over the past few years, “
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      geezer watches
                     </a>
                     ”—meaning dainty, pretty, oft-bejeweled dress watches from the likes of Piaget, Audemars Piguet, and ‘70s-era Patek Philippe—have become one of the biggest trends among vintage collectors. No brand is without their
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      take on the stone-dial watch
                     </a>
                     and just about every red carpet these days is chock-a-block with rare oddities like the Audemars Piguet “Bamboo,”
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      a favorite of Michael B. Jordan
                     </a>
                     .
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
                     But a decade ago, when Phillip Toledano (perhaps best known by his handle @
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      MisterEnthusiast
                     </a>
                     ) started wearing these jewelry watches, he remembers them disgusting his fellow collectors, who were all still obsessed with burly steel sport models. “Oh, Liberace called, he wants his watch back,” Toledano remembers observers taunting him a decade ago. “And now, of course, everyone’s wearing the Liberace watches.”
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
                     But over the past month, I’ve been picking up some irregular signals from Toledano’s Instagram. It started with a
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      meatball-sized Panerai
                     </a>
                     , evolved into
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      a yellow-gold Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore
                     </a>
                     , and culminated in the frightening crescendo of a Richard Mille. All of these are watches feel so out of step not just with Toledano’s typical tastes (at one point I even commented, “Who are you and what have you done with Phil?”), but also with everything that’s “hot” in watches right now.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
                     I called up Toledano because…what the hell, man? He revealed to me that he sold off almost all of his “geezer watches” nearly a year ago, and has since been turning over rocks just about everyone else has left undisturbed for years. Part of this is motivated by what he describes as a “highly refined contrarian reflex.” However, seeing someone so reliably ahead of the curve follow a very logical trend cycle (small vintage uncomplicated dress watches to highly technical, burly, brazen sport watches) set off more than a few alarm bells. I asked Toledano about his recent swerves, why he left his geezer watches behind for good, and what he’s looking at next.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
                     <em>
                      <strong>
                       B+P:
                      </strong>
                     </em>
                     <strong>
                      So you’re calling this your dance with Satan. Even you seem to be aware of the strange signals this is sending.
                     </strong>
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
                     <em>
                      <strong>
                       Toledano
                      </strong>
                      :
                     </em>
                     Well, I’m not an idiot. We’ll start with the Panerai. The thing about that to me is I’ve been chasing one of those watches for years, because I think the original Panerai design language is just biblical-level genius. Their sterile sandwich dials, the wire lugs, the onion crown—the whole thing is just beautiful. I’ve been chasing an original one from the ’40s for years. Thankfully, they’ve fallen massively out of favor, so they’re half the price they were a couple of years ago.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
                     I’m also
                     <em>
                      the
                     </em>
                     pathological contrarian. I’m always interested in looking at what people are shunning. So that’s the simple reason. I still really think that the design language is extraordinary.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
                     <strong>
                      And how big is it?
                     </strong>
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
                     This is the 47mm Gulliverian-sized extravaganza. It’s the full business. And I was really worried that this was just going to sit in my watchbox as an object, but I’ve been wearing it a lot.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
                     <strong>
                      Is your contrarian streak informed by a desire to get watches that are easier and cheaper to buy?
                     </strong>
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
                     I always steer clear of frothy watches. The Daytonas were really super frothy for a while. Cartier is super, super frothy now. I feel like Piaget is pretty frothy. I just don’t want to be part of that. For me, it’s nice to feel like you’re making the decision on your own—as opposed to
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      seeing the Cartier Cash so many times
                     </a>
                     on so many famous people, so now you have to have one.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
                     <strong>
                      The Panerai I can square with the rest of your collection. It has a beautiful history. The design is still classic. But how do you get to RM? Explain that to me.
                     </strong>
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
                     One of the joys I find in watch collecting—and it’s a peculiar kind of masochistic joy—is that I really enjoy being wrong. I’ve spent years maligning Richard Mille, and then I started looking at women’s Richard Mille, and when you look at the smaller versions, suddenly everything just works better for me. They’re less shouty. The design language just becomes cohesive in a way that it’s not when they’re these massive disco blobs on your wrist.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
                     You know what’s funny about that watch? I’ve gotten so many messages from people saying, “I’ve never liked Richard Mille, but this one I’m super into. Where can I get one?” I mean, it’s seriously a crazy amount of messages.
                    </span>
                   </p>
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                  <a target="_blank">
                   <img alt="Courtesy of the Field Museum" height="auto" src="https://inboxflows.com/_/image/https%253A%252F%252Fmedia.sailthru.com%252Ffss%252Ffbht11%252F59054ad4-20e1-4a8d-a9d4-01f2a2410feb%252FIMG_2706.jpeg/?inbox_flows_img_sig=eyJwYXRoIjoiaHR0cHMlM0ElMkYlMkZtZWRpYS5zYWlsdCIsInRpbWUiOjE3ODA2NjEwNDYuMDUyNzEyNH0:1wVTHS:nAC1qdi9auWhdgGYB8GILPLQoSMK1gPYcD2otaRq4Tc" style="display:block;height:auto;border:0;width:100%" title="Courtesy of the Field Museum" width="510"/>
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                  <p style="margin:0">
                   Courtesy Phillip Toledano
                  </p>
                 </div>
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                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
                     <strong>
                      Well, I mean, that’s exactly the thing: You are the creator of the geezer watch trend. And now to see you wearing an RM, you’re just exposing people to a different drug now.
                     </strong>
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
                     I’m just really interested in the experience of things. So the Richard Mille experience is totally different: this super lightweight, very modern thing that actually works all the time and you can wear in the rain. It’s an interesting experience. I get that some people will collect Rolex Submariners for their entire life, but for me, I just like to try different meals.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
                     <strong>
                      What has been the reaction from people you’ve run into who are used to seeing you with the geezer watches, but now see the RM on your wrist?
                     </strong>
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
                     Honestly, I sold most of my geezer watches. It became a massive thing. I still have all my ’70s Patek Philippes because I feel like they’re still super beautiful and I really love them. But all of the Piaget stuff and the rest of it.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
                     What have my friends said? Funny enough, I was hanging out with Scarr [Pimentel, founder of Scarr’s Pizza] and he’s like, “I need to get one of these.”
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
                     <strong>
                      What are people saying in the comments?
                     </strong>
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
                     Well, in some of the comments, people are like, “Oh, I suppose you’re going to become a rapper now,” which I find kind of vaguely like…
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
                     <strong>
                      Racist for sure.
                     </strong>
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
                     One hundred percent. Look, I would like one day to own a Rolls-Royce and drive it around, because I’ve never been in a luxo barge before. I’ve never owned one of those cars. And I would like to feel what that’s like, just to be in a car that’s so luxurious. We’re only here once. You might as well try as much different shit as possible.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
                     I’ve had interesting experiences with both the Panerai and RM watches, because when I’ve worn them, people have been like, “Oh shit, okay, I get it now,” which is unusual because they are both quite vilified. Even when I was wearing “geezer” stuff 10 years ago, people were not like, “Oh, I love that.” They were still like, “Oh, that’s the Liberace watch.”
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
                     <strong>
                      There’s such Cartier mania right now and excitement around really boldly designed dress watches. So the very sensible route we take is exactly the one you’re already headed down. Not just because they’re so modern, but the Panerai because of its massive size after we all bullied brands into making smaller watches.
                     </strong>
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
                     The thing about the Panerai is it’s like a secret shame. When I post it, I’ll get messages from people wearing their Panerais that go, “I still love my Panerai.” It’s like they’ve been shamed out of publicly showing them.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
                     <strong>
                      Do you feel like there is something in the water and maybe more and more people are going to start embracing watches like this? Because it does feel inevitable to me, with the cyclical nature of trends, that there will be an evolution beyond the Cartier, Piaget, little-dress-watch mania.
                     </strong>
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
                     There’s such a frenzy over Cartier, man. It just seems improbable that it’s going to continue. And again, it doesn’t mean those watches are not cool. Where do you think people will wash up?
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
                     <strong>
                      Well, I think that they’re going to come ashore with you a little bit, at least with bigger sport watches. I wonder what else you’re kind of digging around in? Is Frank Mueller back on the table for you? Bigger, louder watches with lots of complications, which is the opposite of what’s been hot on the vintage market recently.
                     </strong>
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
                     Funny, I did have a brief Frank Mueller dalliance, but it just didn’t quite work out.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
                    One of the things I really like is finding watches that are super common and then finding some weird articulation of that watch. So, Rolex Daytonas, but really quite rare variations that come on a strap. It’s really specific—I’m deli-slicing this into obscurity. So there’s the Daytona Beach, which I love actually, but
                    <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                     then no one’s really paying attention to these ones [on straps with more muted stone dials]
                    </a>
                    . They’re super, super rare, but it’s like mid $30K on [resale sites].
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
                     <strong>
                      I do love what you touched on, too, that just the experience of wearing these watches is so different. I remember the first time I tried on an RM, it was shocking because it’s so light and just looking at them, you expect them to be really heavy.
                     </strong>
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
                     Right. Because they’re these chunky things. When people have a go at me about the RM, I just say, “Look, I’m just curious. I just want to know what it feels like.”
                    </span>
                   </p>
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