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The Best Watches of 2026 (So Far)
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From a genius watchmaker’s latest masterpiece to a perfect rendition of a historic dive watch, here’s an early look at the year’s finest timepieces.
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Hello from Le Couturier de la
<em>
Newsletters,
</em>
</span>
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</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:17px;mso-line-height-alt:25.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 17px;">
Somehow it’s already April, which means that next week is Watches and Wonders, the massive Geneva tradeshow that always unleashes a
<em>
Day After Tomorrow
</em>
-sized flood of new timepiece releases
<em>
.
</em>
But so many great watches have already dropped this yearu—from
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
relaunched icons
</a>
and
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
resurrected brands
</a>
to
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
a new model from one of our greatest living watchmakers
</a>
—that I feel we need to do a quick survey and nail some favorites down to the floor before they get swept away during next week’s hubabaloo. These are my favorite watches of 2026 so far.
</span>
</p>
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<br/>
<a>
Why this ad?
</a>
</span>
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<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 17px;">
<strong>
The Future Heirloom Award: Rexhep Rexhepi RRCHF
</strong>
</span>
</p>
</div>
</div>
</td>
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<div style="font-family:Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif">
<div class="" style="font-family:Georgia,Times,'Times New Roman',serif;font-size:12px;mso-line-height-alt:18px;color:#000;line-height:1.5">
<p style="margin:0;font-size:17px;mso-line-height-alt:25.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 17px;">
It’s no longer accurate to call Rexhep Rexhepi the world’s
<em>
next
</em>
great watchmaker. The launch of his latest masterpiece,
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
the RRCHF
</a>
, is further proof of his arrival. The watch’s striking design flips the standard chronograph on its head—the actual timekeeping is relegated to a pair of sub-registers, while the chronograph complication occupies the main dial. From there, the RRCHF features all of Rexhepi’s bar-setting trademarks: his signature symmetrical movements; the high-end finishings typically employed only by bigger, more established luxury houses; and a deceptively slim silhouette, stuffing a flyback chronograph into a case that’s less than 10mm thick. (For comparison, A. Lange & Sohne’s comparable 1815 Chronograph clocks in at 10.8 mm). But to me, what’s most exciting about this piece is the statement Rexhepi is making by centering the chronograph function: that even in our increasingly digital world,
<a rel="noopener" style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;" target="_blank">
watches still have meaning and value as tools
</a>
.
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:17px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:17px;mso-line-height-alt:25.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 17px;">
<strong>
The Comeback of the Year Award: Universal Genéve Cabriolet
</strong>
</span>
</p>
</div>
</div>
</td>
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<div style="font-family:Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif">
<div class="" style="font-family:Georgia,Times,'Times New Roman',serif;font-size:12px;mso-line-height-alt:18px;color:#000;line-height:1.5">
<p style="margin:0;font-size:17px;mso-line-height-alt:25.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 17px;">
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
Universal Genéve is back. The historic brand, which had been defunct for three decades
</a>
, made a splashy return this week with a total of 36 new watches. Fan-favorite models like the Polerouter and Compax headlined the debut, but like the insufferable indie kid at your high school, I have my eyes on one of the undercard offerings. Like all of the watches in the revitalized UG’s catalog, the Cabriolet was plucked from the archives—but the brand was able to tinker with its design more than it could with an iconic timepiece like the Polerouter. What did UG do with that wiggle room? Cranked the funk up to 11 on the numerals, deploying a Roaring ’20s-era typeface called Bifur. My favorite of the new Cabriolets is the full gold number with a matching bracelet. The new UG watches don’t come cheap, and this one’s $63,286 sticker price is particularly eye-watering. But this is a list of my
<em>
favorite
</em>
new watches, not the best value buys.
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:17px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:17px;mso-line-height-alt:25.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 17px;">
<strong>
The Parisian Chic Award: Merci Instruments Geometric Beaumarchais
</strong>
</span>
</p>
</div>
</div>
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<p style="margin:0;font-size:17px;mso-line-height-alt:25.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 17px;">
French brand Merci Instruments’ latest release packs a whole lot of interesting design into a $550 package. The case is the standout here, boasting a stop-sign-shaped bezel with sharp edges that swan dive into the dial. I’m a real sucker for star-shaped indices—the
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
Rolex “Star Dial”
</a>
is a grail of mine—and I love seeing them here on a very funky, ’70s-inspired watch.
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:17px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:17px;mso-line-height-alt:25.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 17px;">
<strong>
The Steph Curry “From the Logo!!!” Award: Squale SUB-37 Legend
</strong>
</span>
</p>
</div>
</div>
</td>
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<div style="font-family:Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif">
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<p style="margin:0;font-size:17px;mso-line-height-alt:25.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 17px;">
This watch is a testament to the power of a good logo and a nice typeface. The new Squale earns a place here on the strength of its unbeatable shark mark (right above 6 o’clock)—a playful bit of design that also nods to the watch’s roots. Squale is famous in the dive watch community for its sturdy, dependable watches, but this new release might be its most wearable yet. The brand shrunk its signature diver down to just 37mm and amped up the vintage feel with toffee-toned indices and hand accents. The cursive “Automatic” and “30 Atmos” text is sexy too. Now, if only they could put this on a steel bracelet.
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:17px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:17px;mso-line-height-alt:25.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 17px;">
<strong>
The Tom DeLonge “Aliens Exist” Award: Kollokium Projekt 02 Variant B
</strong>
</span>
</p>
</div>
</div>
</td>
</tr>
</table>
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</a>
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</div>
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<div style="font-family:Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif">
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<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:25.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 17px;">
Swiss brand Kollokium makes some of the most interesting watches in the world, thanks to freaky dials that resemble miniature sculptures. I absolutely love the Projekt 02, which uses a series of 67 plates pressed together to create a surface that looks like the hills and valleys of a distant alien planet. The effect is intentional: Kollokium uses dark gray for the peaks, but casts the deeper recesses in a dark black. The brand knows you’ll want to stare, so it chose a sapphire crystal that shoots straight up and comes to a 90-degree angle at the top, like a pristine cake. The tall crystal allows you to look inside and appreciate the curves Kollokium created from all angles.
</span>
</p>
</div>
</div>
</td>
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<div style="font-family:Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif">
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<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:25.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 17px;">
Everything about this watch looks like it came from some far-flung civilization, right down to the neon-yellow seconds hand and hour and minute hand made of only a glowing white outline. And to truly see the Projekt 02 in its full glory, turn out the lights and watch the fully lumed dial come to life.
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;mso-line-height-alt:25.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 17px;">
<strong>
The Most Daring Swerve Award: Audemars Piguet Neo Frame Jumping Hour
</strong>
</span>
</p>
</div>
</div>
</td>
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</table>
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<div style="font-family:Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif">
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<p style="margin:0;font-size:17px;mso-line-height-alt:25.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 17px;">
“AP is not only the Royal Oak,” Sebastian Vivas, the watchmaker’s heritage and museum director,
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
told me in the run-up to the Neo Frame’s release
</a>
. “It’s much more than that.” While the RO is far and away Audemars’ most popular model, Vivas is out to prove there’s a lot more magic in AP’s back catalog. The new Neo Frame uses a design from the ’20s as a jumping-off point, but the result is spectacularly modern. The glossy black shell, created through physical vapor deposition, and rose-gold accents place the watch unmistakably in 2026. That’s an important distinction for a brand like AP, which is looking to establish another icon beyond its tentpole RO. The Neo Frame isn’t just some novelty pulled from the archives for a special edition—as a now-permanent part of the collection, it represents Audemars Piguet’s present and future.
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:17px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:17px;mso-line-height-alt:25.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 17px;">
<strong>
The Drive It Right off the Lot Award: Omega Speedmaster "Black & White”
</strong>
</span>
</p>
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<p style="margin:0;font-size:17px;mso-line-height-alt:25.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 17px;">
I’ve been calling this steel Speedmaster the “Audi of Moonwatches.” It’s not on the high end, like
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
one of Colman Domingo’s diamond-set gold
</a>
versions, but it’s also several steps above your typical base model. This is the sensible luxury Speedy with a slightly upgraded dial. Rather than a single plane with contrasting sub-registers, this iteration’s dial uses two plates—black on top and white beneath it—to add depth. The effect really works for me, especially since it creates a “panda”-style dial, which wasn’t available on a modern Speedmaster before this model debuted in January.
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:17px;mso-line-height-alt:25.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 17px;">
<a rel="noopener" style="background-color: transparent; color: #000000;" target="_blank">
<span style="word-break: break-word;">
<em>
<u>
<strong>
</strong>
</u>
</em>
</span>
</a>
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:17px;mso-line-height-alt:25.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 17px;">
<strong>
The Two for the Price of One Award: Dennison Dual Time “Shades”
</strong>
</span>
<a rel="noopener" style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;" target="_blank">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
<u>
</u>
</span>
</a>
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<p style="margin:0;mso-line-height-alt:25.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 17px;">
Dennison has made a name for itself on the strength and versatility of this Dual Time model. In 2025
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
, the brand used it to fuse two different stones onto a single dial
</a>
. Now, they’re opting for something much chiller. The new “Shades” collection leverages the two-faced dial with tonal hues of green, brown, and blue. The result is a trinity of really handsome and unique watches. Dennison has done something that’s critical for all good watches: found a function that inspires great form. Like Rolex’s bi-color bezel on the GMT-Master, these aesthetic flourishes aren’t there
<em>
just
</em>
for fun. On Dennison, they divide the two separate timekeeping sections. The tall, lean numerals—a new addition to the “Shades” collection—are a little cutesy for me, but not overwhelming enough to put me off this watch. Especially when Dennison is offering one of the best values in the biz: the new collection starts at $740.
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;mso-line-height-alt:25.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 17px;">
<em>
<strong>
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Read and share this post on the web.
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</strong>
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<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;text-align:center;mso-line-height-alt:30px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 20px;">
<strong>
Watch of the Week
</strong>
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;mso-line-height-alt:25.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 17px;">
I’ve always been fascinated by the watch-world ritual known as “The Call.” Cruise any watch forum and you’re bound to see the phrase multiple times under pictures of gleaming new watches (just out of frame, presumably, are the new owners grinning like kids who just met Santa Claus). “I got the call,” they’ll say, meaning they got word from their authorized dealer to come collect a watch they put their name down for—in many cases—literal
<em>
years
</em>
ago. At that point, you have a small timeframe to decide: Do I still want this watch I took a shine to way back when? More importantly, can I afford it? And if so, will they throw a big party for me when I, evidently a person with the patience of a monk, show up to claim this piece? I’m of the belief that every boutique should treat their long-waiting clientele the way
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
Jennifer Hudson does her guests
</a>
.
</span>
</p>
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<div style="font-family:Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif">
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<p style="margin:0;font-size:17px;mso-line-height-alt:25.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 17px;">
On that note, I was struck by a sweet story from collector and author Brendan Cunningham (@
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
katimepieces
</a>
on Instagram) who recently got the call for his grail watch. Three years ago, Cunningham walked into a Rolex boutique and put his name down for multiple pieces, including the Submariner he’d wanted since childhood. In late February, he got a text from the sales rep saying, “The Rolex you requested is in.” No model was identified, so Cunningham assumed it was the Explorer he’d also expressed interest in, and was ready to politely decline it. But his wife convinced him not to pass up the opportunity. “She is a big believer in carpe diem,” Cunningham tells me over email.
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:17px;mso-line-height-alt:25.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 17px;">
<span style="word-break: break-word;">
<br/>
When Cunningham called back the next morning, he was delighted to discover the watch waiting for him was his long-hoped-for Submariner. Somehow, Cunningham, the author of
</span>
</span>
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 17px;">
<em>
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
Selling the Crown: The Secret History of Marketing Rolex
</a>
</em>
, didn’t have the watchmaker’s most recognizable model in his collection. Now that he’s finally got one on his wrist, I spoke with Cunningham about the experience of receiving it.
</span>
<u>
</u>
</p>
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<div style="font-family:Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif">
<div class="" style="font-size:12px;font-family:Georgia,Times,'Times New Roman',serif;mso-line-height-alt:18px;color:#000;line-height:1.5">
<p style="margin:0;font-size:17px;mso-line-height-alt:25.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 17px;">
<strong>
<em>
B+P:
</em>
</strong>
<strong>
What did your wife say that swung you from “polite no” to “yes”?
</strong>
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:17px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:17px;mso-line-height-alt:25.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 17px;">
<em>
Cunningham:
</em>
I was actually floored that she was open to the idea and I think it was tied to my sharing, over the years, the unique economics surrounding Rolex. She knew that secondary market prices were historically above retail prices, unlike almost any other product you can think of. So, for her (and me), it seemed like this purchase was not the same as an expensive trip, for example, because of the value retention. We actually checked secondary prices before making the final decision, and they were largely in line with retail, so at that point it made sense to both of us. Also, she knows that I find the brand’s history fascinating.
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:17px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:17px;mso-line-height-alt:25.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 17px;">
<strong>
Tell me every detail about the pickup! Was there any sort of pageantry involved? Champagne? Were the reps pretty excited for you, or was this all just a day’s work for them?
</strong>
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:17px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:17px;mso-line-height-alt:25.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 17px;">
There wasn’t a ton of pageantry, but my wife came along for the pickup and that was so great. The reps were definitely excited and happy, and they helped me size the bracelet right there.
</span>
</p>
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</div>
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<div style="font-family:Georgia,'Times New Roman',serif">
<div class="" style="font-size:12px;font-family:Georgia,Times,'Times New Roman',serif;mso-line-height-alt:18px;color:#000;line-height:1.5">
<p style="margin:0;font-size:17px;mso-line-height-alt:25.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 17px;">
It was particularly special because the sales rep was the same one I met during my first visit to this boutique, right around COVID. We were both wearing masks [back then], and the only watch they had in stock was a gem-set Daytona, which was just not really something I would go for. But she was nice about sharing details about the timepiece and letting me try it on. We both reminisced about that a bit. Another sales rep told my wife about how people often fly in from out of town when they get “the call,” and it can be a scramble because you have a narrow window for pickup.
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:17px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:17px;mso-line-height-alt:25.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 17px;">
<strong>
Now that you’ve had the watch for a few weeks, where have you worn it? Are there things that have surprised you about the Sub—things you love more than you expected or don’t like as much?
</strong>
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:17px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:17px;mso-line-height-alt:25.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 17px;">
I’ve been wearing it on a very regular basis. I’ve taken it to an auction preview in New York City as well as a watch collector event at the Piaget store in Hudson Yards. I’m really very happy with it, no complaints at all. It can’t fit under the cuff of some of my dress shirts, but I blame the shirts for that. I may start moving some cuff buttons.
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1 week ago - email@newsletter.gq.com
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