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The Color Combo That’s Taking Over Menswear
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Bright tones were everywhere at Paris Fashion Week—but one palette in particular reigned supreme on the runways.
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All images courtesy of Celine
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<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
<em>
Welcome to a new era of
</em>
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<em>
Show Notes
</em>
</strong>
<em>
, in which a rotating cast of contributors from across the global
</em>
GQ
<em>
network will deliver breaking menswear intel, intrepid trend reporting, and amusing asides direct to your inbox all Fashion Month long. Next up:
<a rel="noopener" style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;" target="_blank">
Eileen Cartter
</a>
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</a>
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<a rel="noopener" style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;" target="_blank">
</a>
takes you through the bright tones of Paris Men's Fashion Week
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.
</em>
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Last Tuesday, the first day of Paris Men’s Fashion Week, I took pictures of two different outfits on two different runways, both in a color combination that caught my eye. The first was at Auralee: a cherry-red car coat paired with bright purple trousers. The second, a few hours later,
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
at Louis Vuitton
</a>
: a washed-out violet hoodie tucked under a red M-65 jacket with an even redder wide-wale coat.
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All week, I kept a casual eye out for red and purple (two of my favorite colors, if you couldn’t guess) even snapping a photo, with my neon-purple-encased iPhone, of a fellow showgoer on my way into the Celine presentation on Sunday: a man in a deep red shirt and lilac chinos, fortified by a very rare instance of well-deployed
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
brown dress shoes
</a>
.
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So imagine my delight—an actual grin—when I saw the first look in Michael Rider’s first standalone Celine menswear show, the highly anticipated follow-up to
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
his coed smash debut
</a>
last June. A long-haired model walked briskly down the runway in a hefty black overcoat, its waist cinched with a thin knotted cord that was half red, half purple. The second look? A soft red sweater folded into an eggplant cummerbund. They all tumbled out from there—purple T-shirts and patchwork pants, red cropped jackets and sweatshirts with lopped-off sleeves. Later came the showstopper, look 43: pleated red trousers and a flowing white jacket clasped by a purple-gloved hand.
<em>
A purple-gloved hand!
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Not only had Rider delivered the most exhilarating show of the week, but he’d also anointed the new color combination of the season: warm red and grape purple. (In my head, I’ve been classifying the latter as “Big League Chew grape purple,” as in the shredded bubble gum.) Certainly, these two colors have met many times before—shoutout to Drake and my editor Yang-Yi Goh’s beloved Toronto Raptors—but their union has never felt fresher.
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There were plenty of other great hues on Rider’s Celine runway, with most of those colors playing out in various tonalities. Bright magenta and light pink. Electric turquoise and sky blue. Peanut-butter ochre and pale khaki. Dark olive and a greenish teal reminiscent of hospital scrubs. (That hygienic blue-green was another trendy color this season, featuring prominently in the new collections of Kiko Kostadinov and
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
Willy Chavarria
</a>
. Backstage after his Saturday show, Kostadinov referred to the shade as “medical green”; last June, when Chavarria first featured it on his runway,
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
he called it “uniform green.”
</a>
) At Celine, the red-purple combo appeared in other tonal iterations, too: mortadella-pink puffy pants paired with a purplish-burgundy jacket, or a violet anorak with reddish-brown capris and little mahogany leather shoes.
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<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
If I were to do some armchair synesthesia, I’d even say the two songs on the Celine show’s soundtrack fit this same color-story dichotomy, with Björk’s “My Spine” as the high-strung red, and Barbatuques’ “Baianá” as the rippling-rich purple.
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<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
Plenty more will and should be said about Rider’s triumphant spring collection before it hits stores, but its elegant use of color feels like a tipping point. Fearless hues have been gaining momentum in menswear for a few seasons now (
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
especially at Auralee
</a>
), loosening quiet luxury’s greige grip on the culture. This was the first season in a while where bold color felt undeniable and everywhere.
</span>
</p>
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</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
<u>
<em>
<strong>
<a rel="noopener" style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;" target="_blank">
See more looks from the show.
</a>
</strong>
</em>
</u>
</span>
</p>
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1 month, 1 week ago - email@newsletter.gq.com
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