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                     Is there a right way to kill fish? There is, according to Andrew Tsui, an advocate of
                     <i>
                      Ikejime
                     </i>
                     , an ethical, chef-friendly Japanese fishing method where its life is ended quickly with a spike to the spinal column. Veteran food writer Brett Martin wrote about Tsui and Ikejime for
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                      a transportive, riveting feature
                     </a>
                     last year. That story was recently highlighted by the James Beard Awards, as one of the nominees for Profile in this year’s edition—a perfect reason to revisit this instant-classic
                     <i>
                      GQ
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                     story.  —
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                      Raymond Ang, director of editorial operations
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                       <a rel="noopener" style="text-decoration: none; color: #000000;" target="_blank">
                        The Ethical Assassin
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                      By Brett Martin
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                      The fish that would die from a spike through its brain in the shadow of an oil rig, 45 miles off the coast of Louisiana, and would be served, 22 days later, in the Grand Salon of the Japanese ambassador’s residence in Washington, DC, was about two-and-a-half years old when it made the worst dining decision of its short life. A chunk of barracuda, itself pulled from the water only an hour earlier, proved the fatal temptation. The fish was a yellowfin tuna, 75 pounds, 36 inches long, and pure muscle. Andrew Tsui, the man who caught it, has fished all his life and is in fine shape for a 46-year-old. The tuna nearly pulled his arms off.
                      <br/>
                      <br/>
                      We had set out from Venice, Louisiana, into the waters that will eventually consume it, toward the fields of rigs that are at least partially to blame. Until nine days earlier, the body of water we were in had spent the previous 475 years uncontroversially called the Gulf of Mexico. Now, who knew? As if by common consent, none of the nine people pressed together on the 37-foot boat mentioned it. We had been assembled by Tsui, a DC lawyer who is also a roving evangelist for seafood in general, and the Japanese fish-slaughtering method known as ike jime in particular. Ike jime involves euthanizing, bleeding, and destroying the spinal column of a fish as quickly as possible.
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                     1.
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                      Are GLP-1s Longevity Drugs?
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