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   The Watch World Needs More Trolls
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   Plenty of technical marvels on the watch market today, but not a whole lot of wit or subversion.
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                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     <em>
                      Hi, my Boxers, some good news: I just had my second child, a baby boy named Rafa. Welcome, beautiful. The even-better news is that while I’m occupied changing diapers, I’ve enlisted a few members of the Watch Illuminati board to steward us through
                     </em>
                     Hot Take
                     <em>
                     </em>
                     Month
                     <em>
                      here on Box + Papers.
                     </em>
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                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     <em>
                      This week, it’s Bilal Khan, a longtime watch journalist, current editor in chief at Teddy Baldassarre, and one of the most knowledgeable people writing about watches today.
                     </em>
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      <em>
                       Every time
                      </em>
                     </a>
                     <em>
                     </em>
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      <em>
                       I speak to Bilal about watches
                      </em>
                     </a>
                     <em>
                      , I feel like I learn a dozen new things and he’s reoriented my thinking on about half of them. This is his GQ debut! Please give him a warm welcome and follow him
                     </em>
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      <em>
                       on Instagram here
                      </em>
                     </a>
                     <em>
                      .
                     </em>
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     The watch world desperately needs more trolls.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     I don’t mean more meme accounts or shitposters. I’m talking about the actual watchmakers—a group that includes some of the most self-serious, self-mythologizing companies on the planet—injecting a little more humor and subversion into their products and marketing. I want watch designs that take the piss out of watch culture, that hold a funhouse mirror up to the pretension and inanity this community so often engenders.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     Meanwhile, thanks to Donald Trump’s tariff war with Switzerland (and the rest of the planet), the watch world has also been pulled into the political realm of late. Swatch attempted to make light of the situation with its recent
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      What If…Tariffs
                     </a>
                     timepiece, which reversed the “3” and “9” hour markers as a tongue-in-cheek nod to the president’s 39-percent levy against Switzerland. Right idea, but lacking the necessary bite to make any real noise.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     The sad truth is that these tariffs coupled with the, uh, rather
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      familiar designs
                     </a>
                     of the ever-expanding roster of Trump Watches is a better troll job than anything Swatch could muster. And the joke isn’t on the Donald.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     The true golden age of subversive creativity in watches took place between 2015 and 2020. We had Konstantin Chaykin’s Joker, a novelty watch that was met with sneers for its $7,000 price tag. Well, those now go for about $35,000 on the secondary market. And then there was the Richard Mille Bon Bon collection from 2019. These cupcake-, candy-, and marshmallow-themed watches baffled a vast majority of the public. Just peek at the comment section on this
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      Hodinkee article
                     </a>
                     for proof.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     But the true masters of trolling the watch industry are the folks at H. Moser &amp; Cie. In 2015, the independent maker began to spoof the industry through a series of audacious products and marketing campaigns.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     It started a bit demurely when, just three years after acquiring the nearly bankrupt H. Moser &amp; Cie in 2012, Ed Meylan of the family-owned MELB Holdings released Moser’s
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      first “concept dial” watch
                     </a>
                     , which featured no brand name, logo, text, or even hour markers. Just think about it: a watch from a brand practically nobody had heard of with a totally blank dial and a price starting at just over $23,000. There was no way it could work…was there? Well, it did—it turns out there was a real pent up demand among watch collectors for watchmaking on par with the likes of Patek but with a cheeky twist.
                     <br/>
                     <br/>
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     A year later, in 2016, it looked like the Apple Watch was going to obliterate the Swiss watch market. Naturally, this is when Moser decided to launch the
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      “Swiss Alp” watch
                     </a>
                     (Alp, Apple…get it?). This rectangular-cased mechanical watch looked just like the Apple Watch, but boasted a stunning fumé dial and a world-class movement. Insiders appreciated what they saw as a gimmick, but assumed the release would be a failure. Instead it was both a sales and marketing slam dunk. Several versions of the Swiss Alp were produced, with the last being
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      the “Final Upgrade” model
                     </a>
                     , with a dial made from vantablack (the darkest man-made substance on earth) and a seconds sub-dial that looked like the spinning Apple loading icon.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     In early 2017, Moser announced they would no longer use the vaunted “Swiss Made” label, in protest of what the brand felt were standards so lenient they lost all value. In that same announcement, the brand proclaimed they would soon be releasing the "the most Swiss watch ever created.” A few weeks later came the
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      Swiss Mad Watch with a case made of Swiss cheese
                     </a>
                     . Yes, Moser took actual Vacherin Mont d’Or cheese and mixed it with a resin to create the case. It sounds cheesy (sorry), but later that year, it was auctioned off along with a Swiss Alp watch at Christie’s for over $125,000—all of which was given to the Foundation for Swiss Watchmaking Culture.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     In just two years time, Moser had trolled their way to being the coolest brand in watch circles with tons of earned media. But there was bound to be an Icarus moment. That arrived in 2018 with the
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      brilliant Swiss Icons watch
                     </a>
                     . This provocative “Frankenwatch” was a grotesque assemblage of popular watch design elements that were—and continue to be—used ad nauseam by the mainstream Swiss watch brands. Well, at least one of those brands certainly took notice, and a few days later Moser retracted the marketing for the Swiss Icons watch. CEO Edouard Meylan never gave a specific reason why the watch was abruptly pulled but it doesn’t take a legal scholar to imagine what the cause would be.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     So, while Moser may have failed in their intention to create and auction off the one-off Swiss Icons watch, they certainly got a lot of attention for it. You could not avoid this story, it was literally all anyone talked about that week. Somehow, the industry establishment’s reaction to the Swiss Icons watch made Moser even more of a cause célèbre among watch enthusiast circles.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     Moser also took to trolling in their ad campaigns. I’ll never forget the 2018
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      “From Father to Son?” ad
                     </a>
                     that parodied Patek Philippe’s most iconic campaign: “You never actually own a Patek Philippe. You merely look after it for the next generation.” The gist of it is this: Brand CEO Ed Meylan is hearing ideas for an ad campaign for the then-new Moser Pioneer watch. He’s shown a familiar concept with the idea of a watch as an heirloom intended to be passed down to his son. It then cuts to a failson raging at music festivals and behaving like a totally out-of-control party animal. The ad was sensational not just because it pointed out the self-seriousness of the hobby, but because it was
                     <em>
                      actually
                     </em>
                     funny.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     Moser still makes beautiful watches with plenty of fun quirks—like the
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      vibrant Endeavour Pop pieces they unveiled at Watches and Wonders
                     </a>
                     , or the
                     <a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
                      mechanical-digital hybrid watches they made for the Alpine Formula 1 team
                     </a>
                     —but they’re not quite as satirical as they used to be.
                    </span>
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
                   </p>
                   <p style="margin:0;font-size:15px;mso-line-height-alt:22.5px">
                    <span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 15px;">
                     I know that’s a lot about a single brand, but it goes to show you that all it takes is one class clown to make an outsized impact. You just have to commit to the bit.
                    </span>
                   </p>
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