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Why Are Watch Guys Obsessed With This Camera?
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After buying his first serious camera, GQ watch editor Cam Wolf realized many fellow timepiece enthusiasts owned the exact same model. Here’s how a humble digital point-and-shoot took over the watch world.
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<p style="margin:0;font-size:58px;mso-line-height-alt:52.2px;letter-spacing:-3px">
<strong>
Why Are Watch Guys Obsessed With This Camera?
</strong>
</p>
</div>
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<p style="margin:0;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
I used to proudly describe the photos I took of watches as the worst wrist shots in the business. I don’t have a natural eye for photography, and my iPhone camera only made matters worse, leaving me with nothing but a threadbare blanket of irony to hide beneath. But at last year’s Watches and Wonders trade show in Geneva, I was gently encouraged to invest in a real camera by
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
Craft + Tailored founder Cameron Barr
</a>
. He recommended a digital point-and-shoot that would help even a terrible shot like me create passable pictures: the Ricoh GRIIIx. “Even in full auto mode,” Barr told me, “there’s so much power in that little camera.”
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
Nearly a year later, when my book advance hit my checking account, I decided to celebrate by taking Barr’s advice. On March 6, I went online and bought myself a GRIIIx. I didn’t realize it at the time, but that purchase instantly made me part of an elite club of watch insiders.
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
Within a month of one another,
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
Rime & Reason
</a>
’s
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
Stephen Pulvirent
</a>
,
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
<em>
Hodinkee
</em>
</a>
’s
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
James Stacey
</a>
, and
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
<em>
Unpolished
</em>
</a>
’s
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
Tony Traina
</a>
all acquired the exact same rig I did, joining many other GRIIIx owners in the watch industry. “There were multiple meetings at this year’s Watches and Wonders where three or four of us would pull out the same camera with the same accessories,” says Pulvirent. It’s “the official camera of the watch influencer,” adds Traina.
</p>
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<br/>
<a>
Why this ad?
</a>
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<a target="_blank">
<img alt="An assortment of different luxury watches" height="auto" src="https://inboxflows.com/_/image/https%253A%252F%252Fmedia.sailthru.com%252Ffss%252Ffbht11%252F81a83dfe-71f2-4b38-96ef-aa1e404a4c1e%252Fstephen%252Bricoh%252B.jpeg/?inbox_flows_img_sig=eyJwYXRoIjoiaHR0cHMlM0ElMkYlMkZtZWRpYS5zYWlsdCIsInRpbWUiOjE3Nzk0NTE0NzkuMzMxNDIwMn0:1wQOcJ:fqIi6PR3_o57tzj0dEFDunWZe5ozMTbHur78cykITf0" style="display:block;height:auto;border:0;width:100%" title="An assortment of different luxury watches" width="550"/>
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<p style="margin:0">
Courtesy Stephen Pulvirent
</p>
</div>
</td>
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<div class="" style="font-family:'Helvetica Neue',Helvetica,Arial,sans-serif;font-size:12px;mso-line-height-alt:18px;color:#000;line-height:1.5">
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
Ricoh originally designed the GR line for street photographers, many of whom desired a handheld camera they could take with them anywhere and still snap high-quality photos of, say, a crowd of
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
people lined up outside a Swatch store
</a>
, a beautiful sunset over a mountain range, or a Christmas-card-worthy shot of the fam on vacation. “It was built on the idea of being the ‘ultimate snapshooter’ and centered around its unwavering commitment to high image quality, quick response, and portability," says Ken Curry, the president of Ricoh North America. I asked Mark Steinberg, a senior technologist at B&H Photo, who he thought the GR cameras were right for. “Maybe the journalist,” he told me, “or a soccer mom” who wants something that travels well.
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
While this camera is a relatively new phenomenon in the watch world, the GR has long been a big deal among hardcore photogs. James Kong—the cofounder of the rising
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
watch brand Fleming
</a>
, who first made his name in watch circles for the sublime photos he posted under the handle @
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
waitlisted
</a>
—originally got hooked on the previous iteration of the camera, the GRIII. “It was simply the latest descendant of a long line of legendary street photography cameras,” he explains.
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
But it’s the GRIIIx, first released in 2021, that’s especially ideal for watch photography—thanks to the addition of a 40mm focal lens, which is far better for capturing close-ups than the 28mm lens on the GRIII. “If you're trying to do watch stuff, to me the X is the only real option,” says Pulvirent. By swapping out the lens, Ricoh accidentally unlocked a whole new audience.
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
The gospel of the Ricoh GRIIIx has spread quickly through the watch world. “The Ricoh really got on my radar when I visited [watch retailer]
<a rel="noopener" style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;" target="_blank">
Derek Mon earlier
</a>
this year at Carat & Co. and he wouldn’t shut up about it,” Traina says. Mon tells me that the first person
<em>
he
</em>
saw using it was Kong. “It's funny to know that I influenced others,” Kong says, “but someone else actually influenced me first:
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
photographer-turned-watch brand founder Ming Thein
</a>
. Not only did he teach me most of what I know about watch photography, but he's also one of the most discerning people I've ever met. He picked up the IIIx soon after its release in 2021 and raved to me about its output.”
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
Thein is the founder of the
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
deeply creative brand Ming
</a>
but, like Kong, got his start shooting watches. It makes sense that so many people in the industry would follow his lead. Thein has been using some variation of the GR camera since 2006, he tells me, but he always wanted a version with a longer focal length to shoot architecture, posed portraits, and watches. “The 40mm GRIIIx was perfect for that,” he says.
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
The Ricoh’s most winning quality is its portability. “It can fit in your pocket,” says Steinberg. “And I mean
<em>
really
</em>
fit in your pocket, without a squeeze.” Traina, Pulvirent, and Barr all loved that it was the only camera they needed to bring to Watches and Wonders. At last year’s fair, Barr had an appointment with one luxury brand whose reps were big fans of his sumptuous photography. As a crew lugged out suitcases full of camera equipment from the previous appointment, Barr strolled in carrying just his Ricoh. “They looked at me like, ‘Wait, what the fuck? This guy is shooting off this little tiny camera?’” Barr says.
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
“The best camera you can have is the one you can keep with you,” says Mark Cho, the co-founder of The Armoury and another longtime Ricoh owner. “And the Ricoh is without a doubt the best size-to-picture-quality camera you can find.”
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
The GRIIIx isn’t as idiot-proof as these experts make it out to be, though. Take it from me, an idiot. When I first got the camera, I was excited to jump right into shooting professional-grade photographs. Last summer, I had the opportunity to mess around with
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
a Leica Q3 43
</a>
for a few weeks and even just using the auto mode made me feel like Ansel Freaking Adams. You can
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
judge for yourself
</a>
, but so far I feel like I’m at the bottom of a pretty steep learning curve with the GRIIIx. There’s a reason the Leica retails for more than six times the Ricoh’s $1,250 price tag.
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
“Sometimes it just doesn’t want to camera,” says Stacey,
<em>
Hodinkee
</em>
’s editor-in-chief. Stacey has a self-identified “camera problem”—his go-to is a
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
Leica SL2
</a>
, which he equips with multiple lenses and flash options when he wants to get the very best photos. He says the Ricoh has a few flaws—in particular, it lacks the lightning-fast autofocus of competitors from Sony and Canon—but is a perfect secondary camera. He compares it to how collectors of Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet often have a beater watch from Tudor or CWC.
</span>
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
But even the Ricoh’s sometimes underwhelming photos are part of its charm. “People don’t want to see the perfect photo on Instagram anymore,” says Traina. “You’re supposed to be raw and authentic and yap into the camera about nothing.” Pulvirent, who frequently shoots professionally for watch brands, notes a certain sameness that now dominates the space: “Watch photography over the last five years or so, especially for a lot of media outlets, has really homogenized,” says Pulvirent. “There's a standard style with the double flash or the bounced flash with super deep focus, with really crisp bright colors, and white metals being desaturated.” The Ricoh’s quirks are a balm for those who think every watch shot now looks like an advertisement. Of course, the danger of the GRIIIx becoming so prevalent across the industry is that we might eventually replace homogenized perfection with homogenized “rawness.”
</span>
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Courtesy Cameron Barr
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<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
<span style="word-break: break-word; font-size: 18px;">
The Ricoh is far from a perfect camera. Steinberg says that it’s not the best value and notes customers also complain about its short battery life, lack of weatherproofing, and that some conflate its lightness with cheapness. Many of the owners I spoke with warned that dust can easily get on the lens and basically make your camera unusable. Since purchasing the Ricoh, I’ve been persuaded to spend hundreds of dollars more on
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
a thumb grip
</a>
, extra batteries,
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
a dongle
</a>
that can easily get the photos off the camera and onto my phone, a flash (I would link the one I got, but I do
<em>
not
</em>
recommend it), and a
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
hood to protect it from dust
</a>
. In this same arena as the Ricoh, Steinberg also recommends looking at a M43 from Canon or Panasonic, a Canon DSLR, and
<a style="text-decoration: underline; color: #000000;">
the Sony RX100 VII
</a>
. However, even after listing out its flaws and competitors, Steinberg says that as far as shooting watches go, the GRIIIx remains “really an ideal camera.”
</span>
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<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
To me, the crossover of watch collectors and photographers has always felt akin to the story of
<em>
If You Give a Mouse a Cookie
</em>
. Once someone gets obsessed with these tiny mechanical wonders, they’re soon going to want beautiful photos of them to share. What winds up happening—as the GRIIIx proves—is that these collectors wind up loving their cameras as much as they love their watches. "I wasn’t really that surprised to see the traction it gained in the watch collector community," says Curry. “The minimalist design is regarded as a clean aesthetic, and internally the camera is highly detailed and functional.” Stacey compared the Ricoh to a well-worn daily driver, while Thein calls it “a well-built, tactile object, which should resonate with a lot of watch collectors.”
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<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:18px">
</p>
<p style="margin:0;font-size:18px;mso-line-height-alt:27px">
Barr’s GRIIIx, meanwhile, has taken a serious beating over its lifetime, covered in small strips of gaffer tape to plug up holes and protect it from dust. To him, that patina makes it all the more cherished. “I could just throw the camera away and get another one, but I've traveled so much with this thing I don't want to,” says Barr. “I haven't seen many that are beat-up and used like mine.” A piece of gear that’s transcended its practical use and bears the marks of a life well-lived? Sounds like watch-collector catnip to me.
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1 day, 5 hours ago - email@newsletter.gq.com
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